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6 Received: from b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Thu, 18 May 95 22:24:00 PDT
From: "Rex A. Funk" <rexfunk@ni.net>
Subject: Bulletproof Alpine Runner
To: alpines@autox.team.net
--options.ni.net:800861421:944177342:765394985:1316013526
Hi T.J.
Attached is an article based on a talk I gave at SUNI '94 called Building a Bulletproof
Alpine Runner. I hope those on the mailing list will be able to use it.
-------------------------------------
Name: Rex A. Funk
E-mail: rexfunk@ni.net
Date: 04/19/95
Time: 23:28
This message was sent by Chameleon
-------------------------------------
--options.ni.net:800861421:944177342:765394985:1316013526
BUILDING A BULLETPROOF ALPINE RUNNER
By Rex Funk
This article is aimed at the enthusiast who wants to use an Alpine as an everyday runner. It suggests modifications which would give the purist restorer a bad case of indigestion, so it's not for the squeamish. The idea is to have a reliable car that is outwardly stock, and easily restored to original if need be. So remember to save all stock parts. These mods are aimed at reliability rather than performance; peace of mind rather than lower lap times.
The process of building reliability into anything consists of finding the weak links and eliminating them. It is an ongoing process. Make it a point to improve the quality of any part you replace, while allowing for re-installation of any stock parts in the future. Later model cars from the same maker often provide upgraded parts which bolt right on. For my '61 Sunbeam Alpine I upgraded the fuel, cooling, electrical, and brake systems as well as the engine and driveline.
Lets be clear up front: classic British cars get a bad rap. Most of them were never made to go as many miles as we push them, nor were they meant to last 30-60 years. They are not as a rule terribly sophisticated, and they require just a little more maintenance than other cars of the era. Treated right, and with a few tweaks, it is possible to make a reliable runner out of a maintenance nightmare. Lets take the systems one at a time and see how this can be done.
I am grateful to the many enthusiasts and pioneers who have shared their expertise through tech tips, hours on the phone, and in many other ways. Much of what is mentioned here I have tried on my Series II Alpine with success. I hope you can use it to improve the reliability of your car. If you have any feedback, tips or suggestions, you can reach me at 505-291-9665 or via Internet rexfunk@ni.net
COOLING SYSTEM: Most British cars were designed for the cool climate of the British Isles. If you're caught in traffic in the heat of the day, you're going to boil over. To combat this I had a stock 2 core radiator modified to a 3 core (cost $120). I then installed an oil cooler from a Series V, and an electric fan from a Honda Civic ahead of the radiator ($20 in a junkyard). The latter keeps the air flowing through the radiator in slow traffic. Other cooling mods I'm considering are a finned aluminum oil pan (from an Alpine GT), and a 14 lb. radiator cap (stock is 7 lb.). The latter increases the boiling point of the coolant, and requires reinforcing the heater core ends. These mods have kept temps within limits, and other than a few holes in the sheet metal, don't affect the outward appearance of the car.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM: The dreaded "Lucas Disease" has a number of cures. Start with the longest lasting, most powerful battery you can afford. I've found that a sealed battery such as the Delco Freedom series is the best choice for my Alpine which has the battery mounted under my rear "occasional" seat. The sealed battery cuts down on upholstery eating caustic fumes and spilled acid. Inspect and replace all frayed, brittle, or poorly insulated wiring. Clean connectors, lugs and other contacts with a scotchbrite pad, and use di-electric grease to help prevent corrosion. Convert positive ground systems to negative ground. Run a newly rebuilt starter motor and generator or alternator. An ammeter is also a must. Alpines had only one fuse box with 2 fuses. I installed an additional fuse box for accessories. I found that a horn relay improved the performance of my Clear Hooters. I replaced my single speed wiper motor with a dual speed unit from a Series III Alpine. Co!
nsider converting to an internally
regulated alternator. Nissan/Datsun pickups in the middle '80s had a small alternator that adapts to these cars nicely. My alternator keeps up with halogen head lamps, driving lights, and other current suckers without problems. In fact, this alternator is without a doubt the best modification I have made yet for reliability.
FUEL SYSTEM: An electric fuel pump can improve reliability and fuel delivery. Remove the mechanical pump and seal the mounting hole with a blanking plate and gasket. I found through trial and error that a 2-5 lb. pressure rotary fuel pump like the one from Carter has the best reputation for reliability (most solenoid actuated "thumper" models are to be avoided). Mount it near the gas tank with rubber insulating grommets to avoid excess noise and vibration. You should check to see that your pressure is within specifications, and youll need a fuel pressure regulator valve. For solid reliability, there is nothing like a properly set up Weber carb. The most common model for 4 cyl. cars is the DGAV range down-draft 2 barrel progressive carb. Some have automatic chokes, and some are manual. Twin Mountain Induction and other carb shops sell kits. The Series III and IV GT model alpines had a 2 barrel Solex carb, and a Weber 2 barrel fits nicely on the intake manifo!
ld for this carb. Follow your mec
hanic's recommendations about air cleaners, linkage, and other modifications. Most gas tanks from these classic cars can use some refurbishing. I took mine out, removed the float and sender, and put a tow chain inside. After about 30 minutes of agitation to remove rust and scale, I blew it out, washed with solvent, and treated the inside of the tank with POR-15 gas tank coating. This resists MTBE and other nasty additives, converts rust, and binds any residual crud which could enter the fuel system. An inline fuel filter was also installed, and metal fuel lines were used where possible. Eliminate all leaks, and carry a haylon fire extinguisher in the car just in case. Haylon does not attack your wiring or create impossible cleanup problems. I run super unleaded with a lead substitute, but I'm considering converting my engine's valves, seats, and guides to more modern hardened units so I can burn unleaded gas straight. I've found quite a difference in various brands!
of gas, so find a couple that you
like and stay with them.
BRAKE SYSTEM: It has been said that British cars are hard to get running, but once you do, there's no stopping them. Actually, most Girling or Lockheed systems found on British cars are adequate to good. They do, however, require proper maintenance and occasional rebuilding. Girling recommends Girling or Castrol brake fluid only in its systems. Silicone brake fluid reportedly swells rubber pistons and seals, and conventional fluids will attack them. The aluminum bores of a Sunbeam's brake cylinders are subject to pitting. While it is possible to polish the bores, new cylinders are recommended. An alternative is offered by White Post Restorations. For $30-50 per bore they will install a brass liner. Disc brake pistons are often hard chromed, and when pitted must be replaced (expensive). When replacement is required, you should opt for aftermarket stainless steel pistons supplied by Sunbeam Specialties and some others dealers. The new Teflon or semi metallic brake!
pads and shoes will give better s
ervice than the old asbestos numbers. Be extremely careful around brake dust, and wear a respirator. Later sunbeams incorporated a Girling vacuum operated booster. This lowered pedal pressure and improved braking. These units are difficult and tricky to rebuild, and adapting a more modern unit might be the way to go. Periodic adjustment of the rear shoes and bleeding the system should be part of your maintenance schedule. New brake hoses and replacement of any damaged lines should also be mandatory.
ENGINE MODIFICATIONS: My Alpine came stock with an early canister oil filter. I changed the mount to take a modern screw-on disposable filter. I also changed to an Allison/Crane electronic ignition system and Bosch Platinum WR9-DP spark plugs. Pay particular attention to gaskets, seals, and the sealing compound used for each. Use the best stuff you can buy, and always go through all gaskets when the engine is out of the car. It may not be possible to get at them easily once the engine is installed. It's also a good idea to replace the clutch disk whenever the engine is out, and a ball bearing throwghout bearing (if you can find one) is a good way to avoid grief. Check the engine mounts, loose wires (particularly around exhaust system) loose bolts (these engines do shake) and keep all fluids topped up and changed on regular schedules. After experimenting with new synthetic oils, I settled on Castrol 20 wt. with an STP chaser. I experienced some blow-by with Mobil 1 !
synthetic oil. Remember to change
oil and filter more frequently in dusty or hard service conditions. Also remember not to rev the engine before it gets full oil pressure. I use Slick 50 to reduce wear on startup.
DRIVE LINE: After rebuilding several transmissions, I've learned a few lessons the hard way. British bearings have a bad reputation (indifferent metallurgy you know). Fortunately, most bearings can be cross matched to American, Japanese, Swedish or other good bearings. This goes for wheel bearings as well. When you're in the transmission, carefully inspect all parts, and consider replacing synchro rings, all bearings, shift forks, circlips, springs, and any other suspect parts. You won't be sorry, and will probably save in the long run. Gearboxes and rear ends are a good place to use the proper grade of synthetic oil with one exception. It is not recommended to use synthetic oil or additives with Laycock overdrive units, because the cone clutches could slip. By the way, once you've tried an overdrive on an Alpine you'll want to use your non-overdrive transmission as a boat anchor. I've also heard of some hearty souls adapting 5 speed Toyota transmissions to Alpines!
(good luck). British rubber seal
s also tend to be of lower quality than American counterparts, but are easily cross matched. Replace them when you can, using single lipped (not double lipped) seals.
THEFT PROTECTION: A hidden switch that grounds the primary circuit of the coil or a battery cutoff switch are inexpensive theft insurance. Mark your car with your social security number in concealed places to aid retrieval if it is stolen. Steering wheel lock bars are popular, as are alarm systems. A removable dash plate on your stereo will also deter theft. I question the value of bumper stickers that threaten firearms or dobermans. I like the humble, self-effacing approach that feeds on the reputation of British cars. Mine reads: All Parts Falling Off This Car are of the Finest English Workmanship.
OTHER MODS AND ACCESSORIES: Try to avoid wire wheels with a runner, as the splines and spokes will wear or break. Mini-light or other period wheels are a good choice for that touch of authenticity. After-market wheels can also be wider, and allow an increase in tire width which will aid cornering and stability. Stock Alpine wheels are 4.5 inches wide. Aftermarket alloys are available in 5.5 and 6 inch width. A 5.5 inch wheel should be able to accommodate up to 185-13 tires. An S or higher rated tire is recommended where performance is at all important. A roll bar is a smart safety option, particularly in a roadster. I added sun visors from a Ford Fiesta to my Alpine (an inexpensive solution compared to trying to buy originals). Dual side view mirrors are also recommended. Outfitting your runner with a tonneau cover, chrome luggage rack, badge bar, driving lights and other accessories could also inhance the looks and functionality. I couldnt resist a custom ze!
bra wood dash, chrome headlight do
ors, and a wooden shift knob with Sunbeam logo. I also installed a stereo/cassette. My car had 6 inch speaker cut-outs behind the kick pannels on either side of the footwells below the dash, but there are other possible mounting strategies which would give better sound. A factory hard top (early or late) will make your Alpine a true 4 season runner. You're on your own with continental kits, neon, 4X4 or low rider conversions.
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with BSMTP id 2242; Wed, 06 Dec 95 15:30:47 PST
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 15:30:47 PST
From: "Allan McDonald (AAMCDONA@MFOR01.FOR.GOV.BC.CA)" <AAMCDONA@MFOR01.FOR.GOV.BC.CA>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Series II Keys
To: ALPINES --INTERNET alpines@autox.team
The S II originally came with two keys. One operated the trunk and console,
the other operated the ignition and doors. The ignition/door key had a
triangular head and the trunk/console key was rectangular.
- Allan McDonald 387-8945 -
- -
- SPAR Project Leader/Nursery Planning Coordinator -
- Nursery & Seed Operations Branch Fax: 356-0472 -
Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
(PMDF #12158) id <01HXCXKB6PEOAR2JBL@WIZARD.COLORADO.EDU>; Tue,
7 Nov 1995 10:43 GMT
Date: Tue, 07 Nov 1995 10:42:23 -0700
From: mcdermott_d@WIZARD.COLORADO.EDU (Dave McDermott)
Subject: Re: Speedo error
To: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>, alpines@autox.team.net,
tigers@alpine.b17a.ingr.com, british-cars@autox.team.net
Jay,
Why didn't you just change the plastic gear that attaches to the
transmission end of your speedo cable? It costs less than $10 and only takes
a few minutes to change. That way both the speed reading and the odometer
are corrected. Your speedo can then remain calibrated to the specs on the
face. These gears come in an assortment of sizes and are color coded. I have
done this on several of my cars over the years to compensate for different
tire sizes and rear end ratios.
Dave
At 02:13 PM 11/3/95 EST, Jay Laifman wrote:
>In the discussion on adjusting speedometers for error, I realized a
>problem many of us may have. When I bought my car 17 years ago
>with 60,000 miles on the odometer, one of the first things I did
>was go out and buy some new tires, which were lower profile than stock.
>As I mentioned in another posting, I think what was stock in the '60s
>(78 profile) is not considered stock now (70-75 profile?). As a result,
>my odometer has been running too fast, for the last 60,000 miles, as my
>car now reads 120,000. On the bright side of things, my car has
>many less miles than I thought. On the other hand, twisting the needle,
>or changing the spring in the speedometer, to correct the speed registered
>does not effect the speed of the odometer or trip meter.
>
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 875719987.20458-1 ; Wed, 01 Oct 1997 15:33:07 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: A.G.Whiteford@gcal.ac.uk, alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Water Leak
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 08:16:00 -0700
Andy wrote,
>p.s. I'm considering swapping to ser 2 windscreen & hardtop, both
>rust-free brass / aluminium. trouble is I'll need serII doors or door
glass???.
>the early hardtop is a much nicer design, IMHO.
I dont think youll get it to fit, unless you bring along the metal
beneath
the windshield too.
The SIII,IV and V alpines have a lip formed across where the frame
fits, and this lip conforms to the bottom of the frame. The SI and II
cars
are flat across there.
If you can swap the above stuff out, you are correct about the SII doors
and glass, but you will also need the side mount brackets for the early
hardtop, as these are different too.
Cheers to Andy the ambitious welder in Glascow
Jarrid Gross
Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: TEdlund@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 1995 22:01:54 -0500
To: darryl@c3177208.ssr.hp.com
Subject: Re: all keyed up
>> About the keys and barrels.
> My question on this subject is does anyone out there know how to
> get key 'blanks' for the Alpine? I have the ignition/door key and the
> boot/console key (one each), but have not been able to fine a lock
> smith (or smyth) to copy the keys (no matching key blanks). I have
> only been able to find new lock and key sets from the parts suppliers.
I found a couple sets of blanks this year at an old-time lock shop (i.e. it
has been in business since the 60's). The blanks I have are from Taylor Lock
Co., the triangular ignition key blank is number R79N and the rectangularish
boot key blank number is S71B. I believe they are no longer produced.
You might want to call around to some of the older lock shops with these
numbers to see if they have any, or they may cross reference another
manufacturer.
By the way, I seem to remember reading a tech tip from some time ago (I
believe from the SSOCC) regarding how to get all the locks keyed together
again. I'll try to dig it up if anyone is interested.
Terry Edlund
San Diego, CA
B395009965
/ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 16:21:19 -0700
From: frodo4@ix.netcom.com (John Souders )
Subject: Re: Sun Visor brackets : repair
To: TheMole <dbilesky@cln.etc.bc.ca>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
You wrote:
>
>I have the brackets and visors.
>
>The brackets are worn internally and so do not hold up the visor.
>
>Has anyone ever honed these out and used an insert to remedy the
problem?
>
>If so...
>
I had that problem.
Got a bit (1/2 inch) of thin walled pipe (copper/brass??), and
squashed it so that it fitted the rod in the visor. Carefully drilled
out the bracket so the pipe would fit in the hole. Epoxied the pipe
into the bracket. During this process be careful that no epoxy gets
into the pipe as this will prevent the rod going in!!
John Series IVish
p Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@unit.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, Tony Leeming <tleeming@island.net>
Subject: RE: Brake drums
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 08:32:00 -0800
Tony and alpines,
>Can somebody tell me if the Series V style brake drums will fit
>on the earlier Series. I'm having second thoughts about grinding those
>balancing lugs off my drums to fit the bolt-on wire wheels and the
later
>Series drums do not appear to have these lugs.
>Tony Leeming
>Series II Alpine
Drums are fully interchangable among all years.
Also, the early drums can be milled, then rebalanced.
Spacers can be added to allow for clearance of aftermarket wheels, but I
found
that for my minilite replica wheels, the required spacers took too much
of the thread
engagement of the lug nuts.
I milled a my early drums .100 inch, then checked the balance.
They did'nt need to be balanced, so I did not.
Everything worked great.
Jarrid
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From: GDWF22A@prodigy.com (MR RICHARD T TRENK SR)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:29:55, -0500
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Reply to Siegfried and Chris.
Siegfried; you ask about torque when using silicon glues. Torque remains
unchanged from what would be correct with a fiber gasket. Generally the
requirement is nothing more than to assure a firm "clamping action" upon
the two surfaces being joined. Obviously there is also a limit to the
amount a certain bolt or stud will sustain before breaking.
I assume you know about SAE std. bolt and nut markings which indicate the
tensile strength of the item. It runs from unmarked (uncontrolled and
unknown strength) up to grade 8 supertanium used in aircraft and other
vehicular applications where a max torque must be applied, such as might be
found in steering and suspension units, bearing caps etc.
Once you have snapped off enough 1/4" side plate and oil pan bolts, you get
a feel for what they will stand...and it's not much torque but is
sufficient to clamp the parts OK.
The shop manual provides torque specs on major units but some, like rocker
arm posts and miscl. pieces you just have to have the feel.
Working on anything made of aluminum (heads) requires real care not to
strip the threads. Helicoil fixes everything just fine and is also cheap.
Back to your oil pan.......lay it on a smooth cement surface or any other
hard level surface and use a heavy hammer to pound a flat hunk of steel
around the gasket edge area. Flatten out ALL those holes which have a
trace of raised metal around the hole. It is NOT required that the entire
pan be in a perfect true flat plane. What we need is that the gasket
surface be level so that when bolted up it will make 100% contact or a well
as possible. The beauty of the silicon is that allows quite a lot of waave
and ripple in the gasket surface and fills the voids nicely.
DO NOT over apply glue as we don't want it to ooze into the inside of the
pan where it may eventually break off and circulate into the engine
passageways causing a clog or problem. With a well cleaned pan, apply the
glue about 1/16" high and about 3/8" wide ribbon all around each hole and
straight portion. Remove glue where you see too much applied. Work slow as
this stuf will not harden up for 30-40 minutes and allows you lots of time
to move things around and have a clean job.
The side plate (tappet plate) is one place where Rootes all leak and where
silicon make a perfect dry engine area.
The front and rear main bearing caps have that cork seal and this is
another place where you can get a perfect dry engine.
Cut the corks to just stand proud (limey term for sticking up a tad), give
each cork a hand job coat of silicon on ALL it's surfaces, press into
position and apply a 1/16" thick coat to the entire cork and extend that
ribbon onto the engine block a bit. Bring the oil pan into position slowly
with ONE movement (no swimming around please). Install one center area
bolt on each side semi tight to hold the pan from movement. Then install
all bolts (except those holding the twin brace rods and bring them up to
desired torque as determined when you feel them harden up when metal to
metal clamping is obtained. Lastly install the braces and their bolts.
Wipe off any squeezing seen externally...and say a prayer you have not
gotten some dripping inside! Silicon glues are totally reliable and
solve sealant jobs everywhere except on head gasket and exhaust surfaces.
------------------------------
Chris; worn (used) lifters normally would be best replaced into original
bores but years ago I quit doing this because measurement to 4 deimal
places showed NO wear on bore sides or lifter sides. Of course there could
be exceptions so inspection is needed . What I do is clean the used lifter,
inspect for base chipping which would not likely clean up properly and
reject any having a hunk missing or damage of some sort.
I reface the base and super finish with a very fine grit stone of about
#800 to 100- grit. I have installed stock engine with refinished lifters
having the coarser finish just as the valve grinder gave the base. They
never fail or cause cam problems so perhaps my extra effort at a super fine
finish is a waste of time. We do tend to be fussy-fussy on race engines
and of course the cost is not considered.
Then, I go to the engine block which is of course 100% clean, and I push
each lifter into ONE block hole to see that they all fit that hole with an
even and equal amount of drag. Then I take one lifter and push into all 12
holes....again looking for an even drag in all holes. I have NEVER found a
block hole or lifter which was not just perfectly satisfactory (but who
knows??? could happen, hence these simple tests which take only a few minutes).
WARNING... when installing lifters and cam always always always apply
plenty of engine assembly grease to lobes and lifter bases. It will be some
time before oil pressure gets up and does it's job. Serious scoring can
happen if just plain oil is used. Also use this stuff in rods and main
bearings for the same reasons.
--------------------
To ALL readers; I assume the old time advice of using non-detrgent oil in
the engine has long vanished but......just in case....USE ONLY the highest
detergent oil rated API service SH (current) or SG (previous rating).
Never ever use motor oil rated SA,SB,SC as these simply have not enough
protective chemicals to do the job.
Also...NO oil additives are to be added to your SG or SH motor oil. None
are needed and usually none are worth a damn ! Stop and think???? If some
additive could really doe what they claim, it would be sold by GM or Ford
or some biggy and would be recommended by major vehicle mfr's.
All modern engines from say 1937 onwards, have been designed with NO
borderline lubrication spots inside the engine.! All that each engine
requires is the proper viscosity and proper API grade of clean oil.
Several years ago at an SAE convention, the chief engineer for GM finished
his speech and asked for questions from the audience. Some wise guy asked
if GM cars were as durable as others???
The answer was as follows:
"Gentlemen, assume you take one of each of the worlds cars, install a robot
driver and line them up on a 20 mile circle at Bonnaville salt Flats.
Start the line moving at high and medium speeds which are not abusive
speeds. When necessary, stop the line and service each car properly, and
restart the line.
As we all know, these cars are wearing OUT and will eventually come to a
stop of their own volition! When that happens...the line of cars will be
still quite straight ! All the cars have equal durability when serviced
and driven as intended. When the Rolls finally breaks down and stops, so
does the Chevy, Ford, Toyota , Mercedes etc. etc. We claim no superiority
in the areas of life span, machining qualities and other areas related to
long life. We do claim superiority in certain areas of efficiency and
performance for certain of our vehicles, just as our fellow mfr's can claim
silence in Cobo Hall, then massive applause.
---------------------
Dick T.
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 886366357.145988-1 ; Sun, 01 Feb 1998 20:52:37 +0000
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 20:21:44 +0000
To: Tony Leeming <tleeming@island.net>
From: Jeff Howarth <jeff@v8tiger.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Shipping from UK/LHD conversion
Tony,
I have converted a couple of cars the other way round form LHD to RHD
and it took me a day and a half each.
Basically, all mountings and holes are already there. You need to :-
put in new LHD pedals, steering box, steering idler, dashboard, brake
master cylinder (with remote header), lower dash finisher and
accelerator pedal linkage.
The brake master and clutch master cylinder will need some new pipework.
the wiring can be extended under the dash, mostly for the turn signals,
horn etc. Thinking about it, converting the other way round means they
need to be shorter which is easy.
A new passenger footwell plate is required for the RH side
Headlights, on a RHD these dip to the left which would be pretty
annoying. Also on a UK car the rear turn signals are amber, maybe they
need to be red, deoends on local regulations.
If you want perfection, you will also need to change the wiper linkages
and arms.
Handbrake, all parts reverse and the threaded holes are already there, I
forgot this one and it is a long stretch across the car. Or it could be
a good excuse to lean over, depending who the passenger is 8-)
That's about it, let me know if you need any more help.
Advantages -
* the passenger seat becomes the drivers seat and is often like new.
* The window winder is often better
* if you're blind in the left eye, its easier to see your passenger.
* the radio volume control is nearer.
Disadvantages -
* dents in the knuckles changing the steering over
* garage fills up with parts from the wrong side of the car.
* its further to walk to the fuel cap.
* if you have had the car a while, you will keep getting in on the wrong
side !!!
Seriously its quite straight forward.
As regardsa shipper, I used Kingstown Shipping in Hull (01482 374116)
they were pretty good but i guess shipping to the US/Canada is pretty
expensive.
--
Jeff Howarth
S Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 913045446.80128-1 ; Mon, 07 Dec 1998 15:44:06 +0000
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 07:44:35 -0800
From: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>,
"'Alpine's Peak'" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Bubble Flares
'Beamers,
As you know, the British hydraulic lines (with a few
peculiar exceptions) are "bubble flares" on the tube ends,
rather thatn the US standard "double flares".
To clarify, for those unfamiliar with these, the US system
uses a two step flaring tool that 'bulges' the tubing with a
special fitting on the screw end of the flaring tool, then
removes the special end and uses a tapered end to fold the
bulged tubing into a doubled "V" shape.
Typically the process looks like this:
1) Hydraulic tube: ===============
2) First step in process: ================<>
3) Finished flare: =====================<<
with the "<<" joined at the outside, of course.
The British process seems to stop with something like step
2).
The outer nut pushes both of these into the threaded hole
with the same thread form, and the back side of the nut
appears about the same. The hole it's going into, however,
is very different. The American one has a "<" shape to
accept the "======<", while the british female connection
has a projection like this "<" on the bottom, to meet the
"bubble".
Straight tubing is available from Sunbeam specialties, so
you can replace your lines.
What, however, would you do if you needed to use US
hydraulic components (non-stock), or maybe US tubes? Or
even AN fittings? Some have just used a bigger wrench. Not
good!
A firm that handles specialized hydraulics, including an
fittings, adapters, hose, etc. has a web page. They are:
Paragon Performance
http://www.paragonperformance.com
1-800-270-0333
Afer a few interchanges, I got the following reply:
"Steve,
After getting the terminology squared away, we are familiar
with the
fittings and can do the assemblies using adapters. We do
need to know,
however, what the application is - brake lines or clutch
lines. Of course,
if you can give us the exact assembly configurations or send
us the stock
lines, we can evaluate them and get back to you with a
competitive quote.
Mike"
Hope this source will be of value to you.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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