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Ï Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in5.ibm.net id 875509254.45960-1 ; Mon, 29 Sep 1997 05:00:54 +0000
Subject: 2/3 95_07
From: alpine!tjhiggin@tibalt.supernet.ab.ca (Mystic Rhythms Server)
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 97 0:00:33 CDT
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
BEGIN ---- 95_07 ---- Part 2 of 3 ---- (LIMIT=100000 bytes)
>I have been having problems recently, with the way that my '65 series V
>idles.
>The engine runs rough, not firing on all cylinders, unburnt petrol smell
from
>
>exhaust. The car runs fine when accelerating or running at over 2000rpm
Sounds like carb rebuild time. Worn needle valve(s) is a likely cause if
the engine sounds like its actually missing at low RPM (flooding). Victoria
British in Lenexa, Kansas sells "grose-jets" to replace the needle style
valves. Supposedly very long lasting. Mine have worked for two years (35K
miles) with no problems.
I'd also check the floats for proper level and possible leaks. A unisyn is
also a good investment for top performance.
Dick Sanders
Seattle, WA
B395009510
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From: "Richard Atherton (Entex)" <a-richat@MICROSOFT.com>
To: "'alpines@autox.team.net'" <alpines@autox.team.net>,
"'Dave Sotero'"
<dsotero@primenet.com>
Subject: RE: Alpine Horn -- To Toot or Not to Toot?
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 23:43:52 -0700
Welcome to the World of Lucas generators. They don't put out enough at
low R's to make an out of adjustment horn honk. My old 65 did this all
of the time. It to a generator rebuild, new voltage regulator, to get
it close, then a some fine tweaking adjustment to the horn to get to
work at idle.
Rich
>----------
>From: Dave Sotero[SMTP:dsotero@primenet.com]
>Sent: Monday, September 23, 1996 5:12 PM
>To: alpines@autox.team.net
>Subject: Alpine Horn -- To Toot or Not to Toot?
>
>A funny thing happens when I try to sound my Alpine V horn at low RPMs -
>nothing happens and the guy that just cut me off gets away without hearing
>my protest. But at higher RPMs starting at 2500, the horn does work. What
>gives?
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>Dave Sotero
>Cyber Geek/Info Junkie/Sunbeam Lover
>dsotero@primenet.com
>www.primenet.com/~dsotero
>
>
_ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: TEdlund@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 15:19:01 -0400
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Alpine Hot start problem
On Wed, Aug 14, 1996 73742.1362@CompuServe.COM (Tom Yang) wrote:
> I seem to have a "Hot Start" problem with my Series V Alpine, but
> I'm having some problems figuring it out. The Alpine would start
> fine when cold, but would lug the starter when it warmed up.
I had a similar problem with our Series V. The problem turned out to be a
bad engine-to-chassis ground. The original braided ground strap is located
under the car and attaches at the transmission mount. Ours was really greasy
and gunked up.
Another option (and less work) is to add another ground in the engine
compartment from the chassis to the engine.
Terry Edlund
San Diego, CA
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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 1996 17:31:52 -0700
From: Sergio Dimarmo <Wanderer@sure.net>
To: Derek Jewett <jewett@sierra.net>
Subject: Re: Daily Driving...
As far as the idle speed dropping when the clutch is pressed, this is
normal because the Alpines use a carbon type throw out bearing which
creates a lot of drag on the engine. I do believe that you can get a
roller type throw out bearing from one of the Sunbeam suppliers.
Hey 60psi cold and 30psi hot, that's great! Don't worry!
Derek Jewett wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Yet again I come to you with more questions. Well everything is working swell with my Series II driver. The first think that is bugging
me is the clutch pedal
>
> Derek Jewett
> 1963 Series II
> B9112382
¯ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: lallegrucci@westpub.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 13:50:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Daily Driving...
To: Derek Jewett <jewett@sierra.net>,
"'alpines@autox.team.net'"
<alpines@autox.team.net>
Derek,
The drop in idle is most likely caused by the friction of the throwout
bearing pushing up against the pressure plate fingers. Could be you have a
heavy duty pressure plate with high spring rate - good news; OR your throwout
bearing is seized and will soon disintegrate - bad news. Enough joking; I
honestly don't know if the throwout bearing is of the roller bearing type or the
plain bearing variety,; the later is just a round lump of machined steel- no
ball or needle bearings anywhere in sight. I just replaced the clutch in my
MGB-GT and was surprised to see this kind of throw out bearing. It too drops
revs when I'm on the clutch.
The spongy feel is either a hydraulic leak in the system, or air in the
lines. Bleed it while continually topping off the clutch master cylinder. You
might also have a helper pump the pedal while you look for seepage from the
lines and the master and slave cylinders. DOT 3 & 4 brake fluid absorbs water
vapor from the air. After a while, corrosion forms in the bores of the
master/slave cylinders which causes leakage past the seals. A solution which
has been suggested to me is: Hone the master/slave cylinders, replace the guts,
flush the lines with alcohol, and then fill the system with DOT 5 fluid. DOT 5
fluid is silione based and does not absorb water. It is however expensive and
it is a bit more difficult to bleed the air out of it. Once its done though, it
is a permanent solution.
Hope this helps,
Brian Corrigan
67 Series V project car
72 MGB-GT daily driver
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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 13:23:00 -0700
From: Jarrid Gross <GROSS@unit.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical Woes
To: Tom Yang <73742.1362@CompuServe.COM>,
"'alpine clan'" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Tom Yang wrote,
>Curt from Classic Sunbeam saved me from buying a new flasher with a similar
>problem to yours. I sounds like a bad ground in your right front turn
signal
>housing. I followed Curt's advice, and took the housing out which gets it's
>ground through the screws and sheetmetal clips that hold the whole housing
to
>the body. (It's times like these when I wonder if these guys had electrical
>engeneering degrees!) Clean off the inevitable rust between the body and
the
>metal clips, and it should help. I made extra sure there was good contact
with
>some copper based electrical compund I got from Eastwood. Don't ask why the
>tail
>lights didn't work when there was a bad front ground, I just followed the
>instructions and it worked. Good luck!
The reasson the flasher often doesnt work when there is a bad ground "front
or rear" is that the thermal flasher unit requires a specific load to
operate properly.
Too small a load "smaller or dimmer bulbs or bad grounds" and the flasher is
very slow or doesnt falsh at all.
Too great a load "bright bulbs" and the flasher is very fast or burns open.
Hope this helps.
Jarrid Gross
SII EFI
F Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in4.ibm.net id 876546369.88522-1 ; Sat, 11 Oct 1997 05:06:09 +0000
Subject: 4/13 97_04
From: alpine!tjhiggin@tibalt.supernet.ab.ca (Mystic Rhythms Server)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 97 0:05:48 CDT
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
BEGIN ---- 97_04 ---- Part 4 of 13 ---- (LIMIT=100000 bytes)
> Any advise would be greatly appreciated as I'm not sure that without it
> the workshop will be able to get things right.Karl
Ouch! That's a lot of gas money. I had this problem with my car before
it started overheating but that's another story. My friend who was a
Sunbeam owner and also a mechanic told me to check both the distributor
and the timing chain. He told me that a worn timing chain will cause the
valve timing to change during idle speeds which could make the car
misfire and to be retarded at high engine RPM's which will rob you of
HP. The loose bushings in the distributor cause the timing to fluctuate
which will also cause the engine to run irractically at all RPM's.
I checked the timing chain by grabbing the fan (engine off please!) and
trying to turn the the engine back and forth while watching the movement
of the TDC mark on the HB. If you feel slack (loose movement before some
resistance is fealt) your timing chain is worn. By watching the timing
mark, you can see how much your timing is changing when your engine is
running.
The distributor was checked with the enging running and a timing light.
With the engine idling (or trying to idle) look at the timing mark. The
timing should not change (theorectically) if it changes more than a few
degrees, the distributor bushings are probably bad.
The timing chain was worn so I changed it and I also replaced the
distributor with a rebuilt from Sunbeam Specialties. That fixed the
problem. Of course, the carbs must be adjusted correctly for it to idle
right. I got mine to idle between 800-850 RPM.
Any other thoughts?
Sergio
/
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 15:27:47 -0500
To: british-cars@autox.team.net
From: mmcewen@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca (Mere)
Subject: The Upholstery Question
Yes, I'm back from Sin City and I loved it. Talk about a work in progress!
I have been following various threads since my return and would like to
address the question of upholstery. Several of you have been arguing for
or against vinyl vs. leather. Cost aside leather is nice, smells best,
wears well and is easier on the tush than vinyl - especially in extreme
weather, hot or cold. However, vinyl is cheaper, wears better than leather
and can be patterned in more interesting ways. It is far less subject to
aging cracks, and with minimun care will last a very long time - providing
it is not exposed to extremes of temperature, especially heat.
I have found a third type of uphostery which alas does not belong in LBCs.
During the late 70s and 80s, GM and other American cars used - gasp! -
short-nap velour upholstery. I have these interiors in several of my cars
- especially my daily drivers - and I love it. My wife's 1981 P*nti*c has
200,000 km on it and the seats look like new. The entire interior looks as
though it is new. The car is never garaged. The seats are cool in summer
and warm in winter. My 78 Cad Eldo has similar material and the seats are
nearly as nice. Minute wear, no rips or separations. The puffed vinyl on
the doors and armrests has deteriorated from cold weather as it breaks when
touched at minus 25 C.
What does this all mean for LBC lovers? Simple. If you want authenticity,
smell and the appearance of luxury, buy leather. If you want authenticity,
practicality and low cost, buy vinyl - but don't leave it parked in the sun
with the top down if you're wearing shorts. If you want comfort and
durability buy velour. The seats will still look good in 20 years - but
don't leave the top down in the rain.
John McEwen
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Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 22:36:09 -0800
From: patrick wheeler <pwheeler@ix.netcom.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 1. Wiper motor - 2. Blower motor
TheMole wrote:
> 2. The blower motor makes screaming bearing sounds when first clicked on,
> in addition, it is starting to make 'rustling leaves' noises when in
> operation.
> It too seems week in the amount of and speed of air flow.
>
> any thoughts?
I dealt with this situation this weekend. The blower intake is located directly between the two vents directly
in front of the windscreen. It is a direct verticle drop to a screen and the blower. I crawled under the
dash. Took out the mounting bracket that holds the blower in place, dropped the blower down and promptly got a
face full of thirty years of more of dead lizard skins, mouse leavings, leaves, sticks, branches, and a few
items I could not identify but might have been related to Jimmy Hoffa. This space holds quite a bit of stuff
so you might want to put a drop cloth down unless you want to spend a lot of time with a vacuum cleaner (hint,
hint).
Once it was back in place I was absolutely amazed at the amount of air that could come through the blower and
how much better it sounded. If your blower is ailing it looked to be an easy job to take the motor out and
down to your local shop, but try this simple fix first. This also explained the mysterious fogging problem we
were having. For a good week after a rain the windows would fog with the defroster on, but not when it was
off. I was pulling all my air through about four inches of saturated woody material that was acting as a
sponge.
o
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From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@unit.com>
To: "'alpine clan'" <alpines@autox.team.net>, Scot Harig <sharig@ibm.net>,
"'Ron Tebo'" <tebomr@cadvision.com>
Subject: RE: Clutch-release Arm Travel
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 15:19:00 -0700
Alpiners,
There is an adjustment rod on the slave cyl to the clutch arm.
As far as the adjustment on the slave cyls rod is concerned, it should
be
such that the slave cyl has additional clearance for the piston to
return
when the clutch is fully released.
The design is such that the clutch's spring action returns the slave and
master cyls only until the TO bearing is just away from the clutch
plate.
If the rod is adjusted too long, the slave cyl piston may bottom out
before the clutch is fully released, causing clutch slippage.
Also, if the ajustment is too short, the slave cyl piston may not have
enough stroke and the clutch will not fully release.
The rod adjustemnt is pretty forgiving in general, and for these
problems to occur, someone would have had to have really tinkered
with the adjustment.
Another problem I have experienced, was after I installed a return
spring on the clutch are, I found that the clutch would not fully
release
when I pressed on the clutch. The problem was that when the clutch
was released, the spring pulled the slave piston all the way home,and
a significant portion of the clutch pedal stroke was lost to overcomming
the additional slave stroke.
In Rons original message, he says that hes having "clutch spin"
problems, I am assuming that this means clutch release probs,
but a master cyl that is has a leaky piston, or air in the lines may
also
cause this problem
Hope this helps someone.
Jarrid Gross
----------
From: Scot Harig
To: all; 'Ron Tebo'
Subject: RE: Clutch-release Arm Travel
Date: Tuesday, April 22, 1997 2:56PM
Not really the answer you wanted, but according to my shop manual the
only adjustment is on the clutch rod at the master cylinder. They show
and mention the slave but don't give any travel statistics. Good luck.
----------
From: Ron Tebo[SMTP:tebomr@cadvision.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 1997 12:23 PM
To: all
Subject: Clutch-release Arm Travel
Can anyone out there tell me what the travel distance on the
clutch-release arm should be (measured where the slave cylinder
attaches)?
I'm having trouble with clutch spin and am trying to decide on removing
trans. and clutch. Master and slave have been bled, action seems o.k.
and arm seems to move enough, but I can't locate travel info.
Thanks in advance for any information.
Ron Tebo
Series I - 9000627
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From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@unit.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, prische@mshare.cupertino.k12.ca.us
Subject: RE: Tapping noise & oil pressure
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 12:13:00 -0700
Jay wrote,
>When starting up my Series V after sitting for a week or two, I often
will
>hear a loud tap,tap, tap noise coming from under the hood. It would go
a
>way after a driving a couple blocks or after restarting several times.
I
>have been worrying about it and the last time it occured I also noticed
the
>oil pressure was zero. After the tapping went away the oil pressure
>returned to 40 which is where it always is on my car when it is
running.
>Any ideas of what is going on? I suspect the oil pump but any
suggestions
>would be appreciated.
>thanks
Sorry to say Jay, that the tap tap sound is most likely rod bearings
knocking while the engine is running without lubrication.
Valves can make a bit of noise till the motor tolerances stabilize
during warm up, but the best clue to your problem is the fact that
the oil pressure comes up after the tapping goes away. Ive seen
quite a few high milage engines make the exact same noise on
startup.
The ever so common stuck oil pressure relief valve should be
considered, but these failures tend to be more permanent in
nature.
As far as the oil pump being to blame, as the clearances increase,
the oil leaks by the rotor easier, and the oil that is trapped in the
filter
and base assy, drain down into the pan. This causes oil starvation
on startup, and could cause the problem that you seem to be having.
The oil pump, would not cause an intermittent condition, unless the
oil pump drive pin had been sheared, but then again, the distributor
drive would probably be lost as well.
If you plan on replacing the oil pump, replace the rod bearings as well,
as it is not normal for them to clatter so on startup.
Good Luck!
Jarrid Gross
¥ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 1997 00:07:17 -0500
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: edalsj@igs.net (John C. Slade)
Subject: Re: Vanishing Brake Fluid
Hi Siegfried,
If you are running the engine for any length of time in the 48 hour period,
and there is no visible pool of fluid on the inside of any of the wheels
(leaking wheel cylinder), then the fluid is probably moving into your brake
servo through a leaky seal, and that can hold a whole lot of fluid!
If you are not running the engine, and the fluid is still disappearing, I
suggest you lift your driver's side carpet, and you will probably find it
soaked in brake fluid. If this is the case, the inner seal on the master
cylinder has gone.
Both of these have happened to me over the years. John S.
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From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@unit.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, Ken Williams <kenw@admin.stedwards.edu>
Subject: RE: 1:1 ratio, question
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 09:58:00 -0700
Ken wrote,
>Recently, my wife the accountant added up all the expenses of buying
and
>fixing the car over the nine years we've had it. $10,800. And that's
>nowhere near stock and nowhere near done. My hat is off to those of
you
>who do it right--I'm just trying to keep it on the road.
These things aint cheap now are they?
>My SV engine runs great until it is warm, and then it misses at idle
and at
>cruising speed if I try to increase revs slowly. If I accelerate at
all
>aggressively, it does fine. Suggestions?
This sounds very much like too thin of oil in the dampers, or no oil at
all.
The oil is what performs the equivilent function of an accelerator pump
on a normal carbie.
When the oil is cold, it tends to have a higher viscosity, and thus
seems
to work better.
If the oil is too thin, the venturi piston is allowed to move too
rapidly, and
the choking action of the dampers is insufficent to run the engine
properly.
Slowly opening the throttle reduces the need for the enrichment, so it
runs
better there.
I have experimented with various grade oils, in my strombergs, with
varied
results, but one thing I found was that multi-vis oils tend to give
varying
performance levels depending on the under bonnet temp.
I settled down with a simple single weight (20 wt) oil, and it seemed to
do well.
Jarrid Gross
" Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 877362953.519628-1 ; Mon, 20 Oct 1997 15:55:53 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, rootes@ix.netcom.com
Subject: RE: transmission noises
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 08:46:00 -0700
Steve Sage wrote,
>At medium to high speeds and rpms (above 4,000, usually), I get what I
>percieve as a "grinding" and or high speed "rattling" from what seems
>like the shift lever area of the trans. Here's what I know: the "yoke"
>that holds the driveshaft into the transmission seems sound with very
>little free play, and the U joints seem fine. The drive shaft can be
>turned 1/2 to 3/4 inch in either turning direction, by hand, before
>resistance is met. I've been told this is not necessarily abnormal and
>in any event wouldn't be causing the noise.
>A mechanic who has helped me a lot with the car told me there is a
"dust
>plate" inside the top cpver of the transmission that looses its screws
>after time and therefore causes rattling like I'm describing. I've been
>advised to remove a side plate on the transmission tunnel and either
use
>a clamp of some sort to secure the plate, or remove it all together.
>Looking at the shop manual, the only picture shown is for a Rootes
>column shift top cover but in any event, it shows an item called a
>"splash plate". Is this what's being talked about that is looke and is
>rattling? From the picture, this doesn't make sense unless all the
>screws holding the top cover down have come out!
>Shifting seems completely normal and at slower speeds there's rarely
any
>noise. The noise does occasionaly sound up at different RPMs. Sometimes
>it may be worse at 4,000 RPM and others at 4500 or 3500.
Just about anything that is loose on that trans could vibrate.
I would not be concerned about the u-joints, when they go,
you'll know it, and tired ones vibrate at a very low frequency.
The shifter assy itself is held via a spring loaded conical socket
peice, and 4 10/32 screws to the shifter cover. If these
get loose, or the plastic shifter ball is worn, the ball will
resonate within the socket.
The whole shifter assembly clamps several sheetmetal plates
to the tranny. If the cover is loose, all manners of sounds will ensue.
There is also a sheetmetal piece that runs the length of the shifter
cover. It has a bunch of small screws to keep itself from resonating.
When the cover gets loose, the tranny will loose oil pretty fast.
Also, the shifter rod itself will resonate if the bushes in the cover
are worn.
Later transmisions had an anti-resonant spring that loads the shift
rod mid-shaft. This wont even work if the bushes are worn.
Another posibility might be laygear bearing failure.
The 1/2 to 3/4 inch rotational play that you speak of will be gear
dependant, any gear but 4th or reverse will allow you to check
if the laygear bearings are snuffed. This is a rapidly deteriorating
condition, which could render the laygear unusable due to
bearing galling in the inner races of the laygear.
Ive got a couple of trannies about with dead laygears,
and its the curse of death for an alpine tranny as stuffing
a new laygear in an old box means lots of noise.
Steve, your in SoCal right?
If you are not too far, I'd help you look it over.
Jarrid Gross
µ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in1.ibm.net id 880169516.126184-1 ; Sat, 22 Nov 1997 03:31:56 +0000
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:29:46 -0800
From: "Barrie L. Henderson" <hendersb@direct.ca>
To: Christopher Albers <Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu>
Subject: Re: Brake Problems
What he (Steve) said - but I'll raise his 10-1 - to 20-1 - some of it
has been sucked through the vacuum hose feeding the servo and is long
gone in blue smoke via the carbs/exhaust - leaving your carbs in a mess
- a mounting brake fluid bill - and highly unreliable brakes.
It's not the best solution - but will do for a temporary fix - take
the servo right out of the circuit and go with purely mechanical (with
some hydraulic assistance from the fluid) brakes until you can
rebuild/replace the servo. I drove that way for a couple of years -
it's just a matter of 'adjusting' the pshyche (spelling?) to the good
old days of un-assisted brakes ie lean a little harder on the pedal!
The brakes still work just fine.
Happy braking,
Barrie Henderson
Christopher Albers wrote:
>
> semeraro@erols.com,Internet writes:
> >I've been having brake problems. Here are the symptoms. Flush the
> >system and everything seems fine. Leave the car a few days and the
> >fluid is real low and the pedal has gotten real soft. Top up the fluid
> >and drive around. Pedal is soft, but stops the car. Fluid stays where
> >it is. Let the car sit for 8 hours and the fluid is back down again.
> >There is no sign of any fluid leaking out (or at least not hitting the
> >ground). My local station, which is usually pretty good, first
> >suggested that the problem was that I needed new rotors. OK, so I
> >bought those. But now they say I need new calipers. Is this a likely
> >cause or are they just switching parts? If I do need new calipers how
> >hard are they to rebuild? Do most folks use rebuild kits or buy
> >rebuilt
> >units? Many thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> >Steve Semeraro
> >Series V Alpine
> >1968 Marcos GT
>
> >From: Steve Semeraro <semeraro@erols.com>
> >Subject: Brake Problems
> >Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:15:12 -0500
>
> Steve,
> ten will give you twenty that the brake fluid now resides in the
> atmospheric chamber (that big black thing) of your servo. It must be
> rebuilt.
Í Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in1.ibm.net id 881709999.110488-1 ; Tue, 09 Dec 1997 23:26:39 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, Ken Williams <kenw@admin.stedwards.edu>
Subject: RE: Spark
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 1997 15:27:00 -0800
----------
From: Ken Williams
>My 64 SIII with the SV engine (positive ground) doesn't want to start.
I
>drove it home on Thursday, and on Friday morning, no go. Starter turns
just
>fine. Ammeter shows discharge. Points are clean and opening. No spark
at
>points (or beyond). Replaced condenser and coil, but no change.
Earlier OEM lucas coils have rivet on spade terminals.
With time and vibration, the rivets loosen and corrode.
Other things to check are the ground strap inside the distributor, as
well as the ignition switch wire is connected.
To diagnose the ignition, connect a 12v light bulb from the
distributor / points connection to the chassis.
When the points open, the light will go on, and when the points close,
the light will go off.
If the light is always on, even when cranking, the points are open,
or the internal ground strap is open or dissconected.
If the light is aways off, the points are shorted to the chassis, or
the coil or the coil supply leads are open.
Be certain that the coil supply has battery voltage on it to verify
that the ignition switch and ignition wire are connected.
Hope this helps.
Jarrid Gross
ÿ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in4.ibm.net id 889117663.91664-1 ; Thu, 05 Mar 1998 17:07:43 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, "Robert L. Abernathy" <rabernat@sdc.org>
Subject: RE: my new alpine
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 08:13:00 -0800
Robert,
>I just agreed to buy a 1967 Alpine that has a
>bad synchro on the 3rd gear. I have overhauled
>several engines but never really worked on a
>transmission. Is there any hope of repairing
>this myself, or should I send it to the local
>transmission shop?
You can do this yourself.
Buy some 3/4 hardwood dowel to start.
Use it for the laygear dummy shaft.
Does it grind going into third, or pop out of third?
Third gear synchro normally doesnt fail, because
second goes first, and then the box is usually fully
rebuilt.
If it pops out of gear (common in 3rd), you'll be needing
a new 3rd/4th shifter fork, an possibly new thrust washers
on the laygear.
Cheers,
Jarrid Gross
Í Received: from mail.imag.net [204.244.225.1] by in2.ibm.net id 896288195.89868-1 ; Wed, 27 May 1998 16:56:35 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, CGBSenior <CGBSenior@aol.com>
Subject: RE: Electric radiator fan for alpine
Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 09:51:00 -0700
----------
From: CGBSenior
>I am planing on replacing my stock fan with an electric one. I have a 3
core
>radiator which keeps the car cool at speed. However, when I am driving in
>city traffic it heats up to over 200 degrees. Any words of wisdom?
I dont know about wisdom, but if you have a 3 core, and cant keep it cool
with the mechanical, I'd say you'd be wasting your time with the electric
too.
You probably have another problem preventing normal operating temps.
Recent relevant topics were....
1) Sand in the block.
2) Pluged "corroded" cyl head passages.
3) Bad ignition timing.
4) Broken/rotted/corroded pump impellor.
5) Bad A/F ratio.
6) Bad Gauge/sender "No real problem"
Electric fans are nice, but if the engine is running too hot, the fans will
run
too often, which imparts more load on the engine at idle than the
mechanical fan does.
Jarrid Gross
µ
Received: from newmarket.imag.net [204.244.225.33] by in6.ibm.net id 899225214.3221622-1 ; Tue, 30 Jun 1998 16:46:54 +0000
From: "Rich Atherton" <gumby@connectexpress.com>
To: "Rex Funk" <rexfunk@magick.net>, "Fred Levit" <fle426@lulu.acns.nwu.edu>
Subject: Re: timing question
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 09:44:52 -0700
charset="iso-8859-1"
I agree with Rex. If it will start easily, then it will not be too advanced
(would make it almost imposible to start). It sounds like you have just done
the tune up. Check your book and verify the firing order and the cable routing
to the plugs. Also, (and was the case with my old Alpine), the compression
could be way down. To run, it will need at least 90lbs of compression to start,
and even then it may spin a while before it fires off. but low compression
means low power but even then, Icould still do 50+mph.
It sounds like it is way to retarded, easy start, no power. Check the
vacume advance tube, may have come out.
Rich
-----Original Message-----
>Fred Levit wrote:
>
>>The engine starts easily and revs up when not in gear, but with the car in
>> gear the engine has little power when the accelerator is pressed and the
>> car can only get up to about twenty miles per hour.
>
>Rex Wrote:
>
>Have you put a timing light on it? Also, check that your TDC is set
>correctly, and not 180 deg. off. I would guess severe retard, but the
>timing light usually tells the tale. Also check your condenser. It can be
>the source of phantom power loss. I once missed a major rally because the
>timing plates in the base of the distributor were screwed up. Check them
>too. They can be replaced. If you want less trouble, install an
>electronic ignition system. Like many others I use and recommend the
>Allison/Crane 700 system.
>
>Rex Funk
>----------
¦ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 900044399.86902-1 ; Fri, 10 Jul 1998 04:19:59 +0000
From: "Rex Funk" <rexfunk@magick.net>
To: "K. Patrick Wheeler" <pwheeler@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 2 Fan or not 2 Fan
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 21:26:28 -0700
Patrick Wheeler wrote:
>After the three row core and a new water pump have been
> added, it still overheats while stopped in traffic.
An electric fan is a good mod regardless of how your cooling system is
performing. You can only see the fan if you bend down and look into the
grille. The auto store special after-market fans are all black, and even
less visible. The fan is easily adapted without drilling extra holes,
using longer radiator mounting bolts which go through the bulkhead. It is
a simple matter to bolt fan brackets on to the protruding bolts so the fan
is mounted in front of the radiator. Do they work? So far i have been
running a couple of days with only and electric fan installed, and I notice
very little difference in cooling.
There is one other thing to check if your car seems to be overheating in
traffic after all those modifications. Are you using the guage to
determine your temperature, or is the radiator actually blowing steam?
Check this carefully. If your guage shows much over 200 degrees, your
radiator should be boiling. If not, suspect the guage. If you want to get
technical, try measuring the temp of the coolant with a good thermometer.
There is a reason, and a fix for this. In order to insure a steady current
to the guages and avoid voltage spikes, Rootes installed a voltage
regulator before the temperture and fuel guages the S III-V cars (early
cars don't have them). This regulator works through use of a vibrating
contact that is alternately "on" and "off". Since it is on more than off,
the effect is to produce an average or net voltage of about 10 V. The
guage needles are too slow to react to the on-off effect. If this voltage
regulator has been bypassed or removed, your guages are probably hooked up
to a direct 12 V hot wire. The effect on the temperature guage is to
increase the readings about 20-30 degrees. In other words, at normal
driving temps your guage says you're boiling, and you're really not. I
learned about this while setting up my S III, and finally had it
straightened out at SUNI I in 1989. That was before we had a mailing list,
and I was really in the dark.
The regulator is small, about 1/4 the size of a small match box, and is
usually located on the metal bracket that supports the dash. Get a wiring
diagram and make sure the voltage regulator is hooked up properly with the
output going to the temp and fuel guage. If you have access to a
voltmeter, check to make sure the output is around 10 V. Let me know if
this solves the problem. It wouldn't be the first time.
BTW Patrick, If your Dad is Keith Wheeler, I had a nice chat with him when
he dropped by to pick up some parts last Sunday. Tell him hi.
Rex Funk
----------
> From: K. Patrick Wheeler <pwheeler@ix.netcom.com>
> To: Rex Funk <rexfunk@magick.net>
> Cc: alpines@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: 2 Fan or not 2 Fan
> Date: Thursday, July 09, 1998 7:31 PM
>
> I have been considering adding an electric fan to my relatively stock
SV, or
> adding a better fan. After the three row core and a new water pump have
been
> added, it still overheats while stopped in traffic. My concerns are with
> originality, ease of modification, and not causing any permanent changes
> (gettin it back to original if needed). The fan is obviously the easiest
> (stock is still on it), but is it enough, any particulr recommendations
on a
> type of fan, and do you think the extra fan is the only way to go?
>
> Rex Funk wrote:
>
> > The alternator bracket on My S II worked loose at the water pump bolt,
and
> > I noticed a residue of coolant in the engine compartment. I removed
the
> > pump, inspected the bearing and seal and, using some Permatex Ultra
Copper
> > to seal the new gaskets, I reinstalled it.
> >
> > Upon examining the 4 blade stock fan, I noticed that it had a subtle
> > hairline crack halfway across one blade near the base. So far, I've
had
> > one of these fans bury itself in my radiator, while taking a turn, and
> > another one just plain break at low speed. At the last SUNI, a guy had
one
> > give way and go through his hood at road speed. If Rootes were still
in
> > business, this fan would be a recall item for sure. I recommend
strongly
> > against using the 4 blade stock fan. If you do, take it completely off
and
> > inspect it frequently (magnifluxing can't hurt).
> >
> > I went to the parts bin and discovered an older 6-blade fan. This item
was
> > used on some of the S-1s and maybe other early Alpines as well as some
of
> > the sedans. It is stouter, and less likely to crack, but about twice
as
> > heavy as the stock fan (plate steel and rivets vs. thinner pressed and
> > welded steel). I decided to give my Honda Civic electric fan a chance
to
> > earn it's keep. It is mounted ahead of the radiator. I put everything
> > back together, but left out the mechanical fan. In moderate evening
> > temperatures, the engine temps were comparable to running both
mechanical
> > and electric fans. I will check it out in the heat later. The coolant
> > leak was fixed. It looks a little weird with no stock fan, but I can
> > definitely tell the difference in engine response. I wouldn't take
this
> > setup to SUNI, but it looks like it has promise for a daily driver. It
> > also made me think about lightening the flywheel.
> >
> > Rex Funk
>
>
Ç Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 904679408.85020-1 ; Tue, 01 Sep 1998 19:50:08 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, Terry McKitrick <tmckit@connect.ab.ca>
Subject: RE: O.D. tranny
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 12:43:00 -0700
----------
From: Terry McKitrick
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: O.D. tranny
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 8:00AM
>The 25 spline tranny I squeezed into my Series I is behaving strangely.
>When cold, it works fine, when hot it becomes stiff and vague. Especially
>bad between second and third. The electrics work fine, it's just tough
>getting there to throw the switch. Oil is full. Anone else experienced
>this?
Is it otherwise quiet?
If the shifting is just getting tough, I'd suspect one of two things.
1) The dog clutch sliding members are gummed up.
2) The shifter rods are bent, or the detents are gummed/broken.
Hope this helps.
Jarrid
¢ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 908309058.77958-1 ; Tue, 13 Oct 1998 20:04:18 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: "'alpines@autox.team.net'" <alpines@autox.team.net>,
Kristian Jonsson
<KJN@ksu.se>
Subject: RE: Electrical matters
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 13:01:00 -0700
----------
From: Kristian Jonsson
>The other day I was going to test two electrical rev. counters. One was
from
>an Avanger and the other from a Hunter. On the back they where similar:a
>flat connection and a pin connection. Now if you look at the electrical
>diagram, (take the Alpine, it is similat in that area), It looks like the
>rev counter is supposed to be in series after the ign.lock and before the
>coil (and the whole item to earth) But it is not working that way. I made a
>paralell connection, + from the ign.lock (or battery) to the flat one and
>connecting the round (signal?) pin to the - side (distr. side). . Now it
>worked.
>This is NOT according to the electrical diagram. Something is wrong.
>Tell me electrical Wizard !
>What is the principle of this rev. counters??
Smiths tachs use a built in current transformer to trigger the internal
electrics. This is why the rev counter is shown in series with the coil
+ feed , bewteen the ignition sw and the coil. The wire induces a current
into the transformer when the points close, then and internal amplifier
kicks a small voltage on the transformer output, into a larger voltage,
which in turn drives another pulse timing circuit.
If you have put the tach in parallell across the ignition to coil feed wire,
and it works, then you probably have an electronic ignition on your
car instead of points huh?
When the tack doesnt work right with electronic ignition, most people
double wind the wire around the cuurent transformer, to keep the
transformer from saturating due to the much higher dwell.
If my guess is right, the reason your setup works, is becuase
putting the tach across the tach feed wire, has reduced the current
going through the tachs transformer by about a factor of 2, which
will have the same effect as doubling the tansformers turns.
Hope this helps.
Jarrid Gross
© Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in5.ibm.net id 911924129.72868-1 ; Tue, 24 Nov 1998 16:15:29 +0000
From: DonBaby58@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 11:14:04 EST
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Alpine "Burping"
Steve,
I had a similar problem in my Series V Alpine before I started restoring it.
I rebuilt my strombergs which seemed to help a bit, but not until removing the
gas tanks did I find the real problem. The lining in the tanks had broken
down quite a bit and partially clogged the small outlet leading to the fuel
line in the pipe that connects the two tanks. This resulted in enough gas
getting to the carbs at idle and low speeds, but not enough during quick
accelertaion to a higher speed and the "burping" would occur. I have since
cleaned out my tanks and relined them. They only await refitting to my soon to
be repainted Alpine!
Don
Series V
<<Hello Sunbeamers:
Here's my latest Alpine problem. Coming up over a steep uprgade today in
my Series V Alpine (with stock Strombergs), and under a good load on
the engine, I noticed the car was hesitating and "surging" a bit. Like
it was leaning out. Cruising speed seemed OK. Later this evening,
getting on the freeway for another trip, with the pedal to the metal and
accelerating on to the freeway, I got a "pop" from under the hood, which
I assume came through the carbs. I tried setting the jets a half turn
richer, but this does not help at all, and accelerating under a load
results in further "pops". Seems like this problem is progressing a
bit. I figure this could be Stromberg trouble, timing change or a valve
problem. The car does idle OK, and gradual acceleration does not seem to
elicit the "pop", until you get all the way on the podal.
This may or may not be a clue: I have had another weird problem for a
couple of months in that, when starting the car dead cold in the
morning, it seems to start out firing on 3 cylinders, very rough, and
suddenly, after 5 or 6 seconds, it suddenly smooths out and idles
smoothly. It seems very "choke happy" when cold, and I must let it idle
choke too much.
I adjusted my valves about a month ago, also setting the timing and
adjusting the carbs, and until my latest problem, the car has run very
well, taking high speeds and full pedal with no problem.
I wonder if one, or both of my Strombergs is having problems, or ???????
Any suggestions or ideas would be welcomed.
Steve Sage>>
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 916896130.158064-1 ; Thu, 21 Jan 1999 05:22:10 +0000
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:23:47 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:33:56 -0800
From: Jarrid Gross <jarrid_gross@earthlink.net>
To: Paul Heuer <paul.heuer@dsto.defence.gov.au>
Subject: Re: Clutch woes?
Paul Heuer wrote:
> Thanks for the replies re my clutch problems.
>
> Herbeam (Tom) suggested WCDS (warped clutch disk syndrome) which I think
> might be the problem. My father-in-law (a long time mechanic from the
> UK) said they always used to bed in the clutch by taking the car up to
> highway speed and slipping the clutch a couple of times. I tried this
> last night and the problem seems to have gone away. Let's see if it
> lasts...
>
> The Mole and Terry McKitrick suggest lack of lubrication in the
> gearshift. I greased the shifter ball when reassembling the 'box. I used
> high temp bearing grease. Could this be too thick? I'll re-do this step
> if the first 'fix' doesn't last.
>
> SloMoIV@aol.com thinks it could be boiling fluid caused by having the
> hydraulic line too close to the exhaust. I doubt this because the car
> has a Rapier? exhaust, small manifold and one downpipe, heaps of room
> there. Also it went back the same as it came out and the problem wasn't
> there before.
>
> One other thought is that I may need to change to the later, smaller
> diameter slave cyl when using the roller throwout bearing and later
> style throwout lever. The smaller diameter slave will give a longer
> throw. Anyone had to do this?
>
> (I don't want to pull the !@#$% gearbox again!)
> Fingers crossed,
> Paul.
> --
Paul,
I offer three other possibilities.
1) The clutch fork has a return spring, which returns the slave to
a position greater than the master can overcome volumewise.
This can be determined by watching the fork arm on clutch release,
where it continues beyond the static clutch point.
This has been seen on alpines, where too strong a replacement spring
has been fitted. A return spring really isnt necessary.
2) You have bubbles in the master/slave system.
3) Your clutch disc hub is tweaked.
This can happen if for some reason the clutch disc takes the
full weight of the gearbox during installation.
Ive had this happen on another car.
Jarrid
} Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in6.ibm.net id 919688339.118308-1 ; Mon, 22 Feb 1999 12:58:59 +0000
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 05:57:24 -0700 (MST)
From: TIGEROOTES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 07:55:23 EST
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: ammeter: in series or parallel?
Roger,
I have seen ammeters fail several times before, and usually from operator-
error. If the gauge is designed to "see" 30 to 40 amps across it or its
shunt, and a careless person directly grounds the battery ("after" the gauge),
an incredible amount of current will pass thru the gauge until something in
the circuit fails or acts as a fuse: in some cases it is the ammeter, as they
are always wired in series with a circuit.
Jim Leach, Seattle
* Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 920582458.112598-1 ; Thu, 04 Mar 1999 21:20:58 +0000
Thu, 4 Mar 1999 14:26:34 -0700 (MST)
From: Jarrid Gross <JGross@econolite.com>
To: "'Brian Jones'" <bj@tmb.com>,
"'alpines@autox.team.net'"
<alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: fuel guage or sndg unit
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 13:25:05 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
>Anyone know how to test the fuel guage or sending unit to determine which
>one's bad? The lite works, but the gauge doesn't move.
>
>Brian
>62 Alpine(S. V Engine)
For series II instrumentation,
With a voltmeter, one side of the gauges meter will read battery voltage,
the other will read some voltage less then battery voltage, but not 0v,
provided the sender is installed and not open.
The supply terminal on the gauges is the twin spade side, where the supplies
on one gauge is daisy chained to the other (Gas/Temp only).
The other singular spade is the sender terminal.
A quick jumper of the sender terminal to ground, will should peg the meter.
Do this quickly, its not a nice thing to leave connected.
It is also imperitive that the gauges case be grounded to the chassis.
If they are not, the instruments will act strange.
For the senders, these are best checked with an ohmeter.
Disconnect the sender terminals from the wiring, and measure resistance
to the chassis.
Andy from Scottland sent me the resistance specs at one time, but I dond
them handy right now.
Off the top of my head, the resistance ranges were in the 50 to 300 ohm
range.
Shorted "less then an ohm" on either sensor is bad, as is open "<1000 ohms".
Jarrid Gross
‘ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 920873300.176540-1 ; Mon, 08 Mar 1999 06:08:20 +0000
Sun, 7 Mar 1999 23:06:31 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 07 Mar 1999 22:17:00 -0800
From: Jarrid Gross <jarrid_gross@earthlink.net>
To: Robert Wiseman <rob@wisemaninsurance.com>
Subject: Re: Temp Gauge
Robert Wiseman wrote:
> Yesterday, while working on my Series 1, I put my volt meter on the temp
> gauge. With the car running, I registered some voltage. I'm a novice
> with the volt meter, so I not sure what I was doing, but with the probes
> on the two lines coming to the gauge I was able to get some readings.
> What should I look for. My gauge moves to the lowest reading when I
> turn the car on, but does not move even after running car for 20
> minutes. I presume the temp. is higher than 90 degrees but the gauge
> does not show it. If I have a reading at the gauge, does that mean the
> gauge is bad or what.
Sounds like the sender is defective, or disconnected.
Another thing to be certain of is to verify that you have a proper
ground to the gauge, else it may behave this way as well.
The sender is on the thermostat housing casting, and has one wire
connecting to it.
The ground connects to the gauge clampdown hardware, and
comes from a lucas bullet connector, from a feed that connects
to the chassis somewhere arounf the blower motor.
Jarrid Gross
g Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in6.ibm.net id 920930928.82374-1 ; Mon, 08 Mar 1999 22:08:48 +0000
Mon, 8 Mar 1999 15:00:13 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 08:28:19 +1030
From: Paul Heuer <paul.heuer@dsto.defence.gov.au>
To: rob@wisemaninsurance.com,
"alpines@autox.team.net" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Temp Gauge
Robert,
Don't bother about measuring voltages at the temp gauge. Just hook one
end of a known resistor (see below) to the sender wire and connect the
other end to ground. By changing the resistor you should be able to get
the gauge to indicate various temp readings. DO NOT connect the wire
straight to ground it is not good for the gauge.
You can use your meter to measure the resistance of your temp sender as
the car warms up.
Here are the resistance values for various temp readings (courtesy of
the Tigers web page):
Temp Gauge
Degrees C Ohms
60 150
80 77
90 57
100 41
120 24
Cheers,
Paul.
(At least my temp gauge works)
--
¬ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 922035333.152050-1 ; Sun, 21 Mar 1999 16:55:33 +0000
Sun, 21 Mar 1999 09:52:09 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 08:51:47 -0800
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: The Mole <dbilesky@cln.etc.bc.ca>
Subject: Fwd: Overdrive problems
I was slipping too. My oil was up. This list convinced me to switch to
regular motor oil from gear oil.
It made no difference. I then attacked the switch on top of the
gearbox. It was worn.
One worn switch test that worked for me was to hold the gear shift hard
right while driving in OD in 3rd or 4th.
If you let go, the gear shift will ease slightly to the left and the WORN
switch will disengage the OD. Until I could get at the switch I actually
used a bungy cord to drive in OD.
This switch will wear down and has thin spacers that can be removed because
of the expected wear.
I removed all the spacers and my OD slips no more.
dgb
L Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 923398910.189820-1 ; Tue, 06 Apr 1999 11:41:50 +0000
Tue, 6 Apr 1999 05:38:35 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 05:39:16 -0600
From: Ron Tebo <tebomr@cadvision.com>
To: RobCarpent@aol.com
Subject: Unhooked Ammeter
RobCarpent@aol.com wrote:
> Christopher wrote:
>
> << Oh yeah, my amp meter still does not show a drain when the electrics
> are on. Any way to test this? >>
>
> My amp meter is pure show, it is not hooked up to anything, and I understand
> that is not all that unusual. If it is common does anyone know why?
>
> Rob Carpenter
Rob:
I would guess that the most common reason that people un-hook them is that they
have been burned out due to a short on an unfused circuit (as you probably
know, our cars are notoriously undersupplied with fuses).
You can check this easily by using an ohmmeter on the two terminals or a
continuity light with a circuit through the ammeter to ground. If you get high
resistance or no light, the ammeter can no longer function, since it's shunt
and/or operating mechanism is burned out.
Ron Tebo
Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in2.ibm.net id 928816987.108594-1 ; Tue, 08 Jun 1999 04:43:07 +0000
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 22:42:46 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 21:46:54 -0700
From: Jarrid Gross <jarrid_gross@earthlink.net>
To: robert nanzig <rnanzig@webtv.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition trouble
robert nanzig wrote:
> I put out an SOS this morning because my SV would not start and
> there was no spark at # 1 and 2 cylinders. Jarrid and Jim Leach guessed
> correctly that the points were not opening properly ( Pertronix unit now
> on order) and I made an interesting discovery along the way. I wanted to
> turn the engine to watch the points open and remembered my brother
> telling me there was a button on the back of the starter relay on his
> Triumph that will advance the engine. Sure enough, we have the same
> thing. The thing I don't understand is why, with the ignition key off,
> was there sparking at the points?
>
> Rob Nanzig
> 67SV
The answer is simple, and only applicable to SVs.
The starter relay coil is wired to the points side of the ballast resistor,
which effectively shorts the ballast resistor during starting to compensate
The typical ballast drops 4 or 5 volts, so the coils gets 8 or 9 volts
under normal circumstances, but when the car is cranking, the battery
voltage drops to 8 to 10v, which leaves the coil only able to give
a weaker spark, which sometimes isnt good enough.
Jarrid Gross
Í Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in4.ibm.net id 930682694.29842-1 ; Tue, 29 Jun 1999 18:58:14 +0000
Tue, 29 Jun 1999 12:56:19 -0600 (MDT)
From: Jarrid Gross <JGross@econolite.com>
To: "'Kurt Eckert'" <keckert@terascape.com>,
"'Alpine folks'"
<alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Dwell
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 11:55:31 -0700
charset="iso-8859-1"
Kurt wrote,
>How does dwell affect how the engine runs? In other words, if it is set
>wrong what happens?
If its too high, you get coil over heating, and points burning at low RPMs.
as it approaches 90 deg on a 4 cyl, you get too short a spark duration.
If its too low, you get a weak spark, or progressively weak spark at higher
RPMs.
as it aproaches zero deg, you get no spark at all.
Jarrid
Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in3.ibm.net id 933303805.101088-1 ; Fri, 30 Jul 1999 03:03:25 +0000
Thu, 29 Jul 1999 21:03:02 -0600 (MDT)
From: Alpdavegre@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 23:01:57 EDT
Subject: Re: overheating
To: tmckit@connect.ab.ca, Alpines@autox.team.net
Terry,
The radiator shop should have a measured amount of fluid to runn through your
radiator and the amount that flows out the bottom will be timed. Tell them
your problem. They also may have a combustion gas detector that they can see
if exhaust gases are getting into the radiator. This will have to be done
with the car at their shop. One other thing to check would be retorque the
head if you haven't done this recently. I once had my S4 overheat gradually
on the freeway 45 miles from home. When I dropped the speed down the
overheating stopped. I didn't find the problem for a couple of months when
the head loosened up even more in town.
To check flow if you have the thermostat out still remove the top hose going
into the radiator and start the motor if a gusher comes out your flow is
fine. Also put the thermostat back in it slows down water flow in the
radiator so heat dissapation can occur. A quick test of a restricted radiator
internal tubes is to remove the radiator cap and when engine is warm ie water
flowing rev the motor up. If water shoots out the filler neck radiator is
restricted internally.
Another thing the radiator shop should look at is the fin bond. This is where
the tubes and the fins that dissapate the heat connect. Poor fin bond means
poor cooling efficency.
Dave Green
8Alps(and one on the way), 1 Tiger.
1 Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in2.ibm.net id 935707269.84932-1 ; Thu, 26 Aug 1999 22:41:09 +0000
Thu, 26 Aug 1999 16:41:06 -0600 (MDT)
From: Jarrid Gross <JGross@econolite.com>
To: "'Cole Harvey'" <ceharvey@polymail.cpunix.calpoly.edu>,
"'alpines@autox.team.net'" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: oil pressure
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 15:40:09 -0700
charset="iso-8859-1"
>Hi all,
>I got my SII insured and registered yesterday, and took it for the first
>on the road test. I have a few problems but the main is the oil
>pressure. I drive the car about 10 miles. It has 30 weight oil. The
>oil pressure was about 50 @ 3500 rpm when I started the car, at the end
>of the trip the oil pressure was about 25 @ 3500 rpm. The temperature
>stayed under 170 and was slow to get that high. Any sugestions about
>what could be causing the gradual oil pressure loss? The air
>temperature was about 75. Also this car has a SV engine with SII
>cooling system.
>Thanks,
>
Cole wrote,
have ye an oil cooler on that 1725?
I dont know why but 1725 engines really cook the oil.
I ran my SII (with 1725) without a cooler for the first
few hours of its life.
The oil pressure suffered terribly.
Adding a cooler helped a lot.
If you dont own a SV cooler, dont use one.
Buy a legitimate add on cooler, it will work much
better than the SV cooler.
Jarrid
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