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Index Accessories Culture Diagnose Docs Howto Id Models Parts-Alt Performance Rebuild Rebuild-Body Rebuild-Electrical Rebuild-Engine Rebuild-Interior Rebuild-Tranny Rebuild-Underside Shoptools Sources Specs
" Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 911848803.249484-1 ; Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:20:03 +0000
From: "herbeam" <herbeam@cari.net>
To: "T Wiencek" <t_wiencek@qmgate.anl.gov>,
"Message Alpine" <alpines@autox.team.net>
"Lou Meyers" <meyersl@yuma.usmc.mil>
Subject: Re: Alternator Conversion
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1991 11:18:50 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
I have used several GM alternators on Alpines.....and have a 43 amp GM one
wire on my V6 conversion(engine has small pulleys as does alternator).. I
had one on a 1725 that would rev up to 7,000 rpm and I quickly burned up the
bearings in the GM alternator because the pulley ratio was turning the
alternator well over the 12,000 rpm limit.. I solved the problem using a
Moroso Racing Pulley ($20) that was 3 inch diameter, making the ratio of
crank to alt about 1.3 to one....perfect!! The GM one wire has a large
terminal that you can connect to always hot and another plug in terminal
that can be wired directly to the ignition light in the car which comes one
before starting and goes out after the engine is running and is
charging......also the stock ammeter works fine...I never seen the
alternator bury the needle . Good Luck and if you're saying good bye to the
"Prince of Darkness" ...why not purchase a good BOSCH or american made
Ignition coil too?
-----Original Message-----
From: T Wiencek <t_wiencek@qmgate.anl.gov>
To: Message Alpine <alpines@autox.team.net>
<meyersl@yuma.usmc.mil>
Date: Monday, November 23, 1998 8:44 AM
Subject: Alternator Conversion
> Subject: Time: 9:50
AM
> OFFICE MEMO Alternator Conversion Date:
>11/23/98
>
>I have been told that an alternator from a 70's GM 350 ci (65 amp) is small
enough to fit on an Alpine. This is a one wire internal voltage regulator
alternator. Does anyone know how to wire one of these up to replace a
generator? Also has anyone done this conversion? I am planning on
converting my Series II but would also appreciate any information on any
Series conversion. Thank you.
>Tom
>
>
× Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 912026866.71558-1 ; Wed, 25 Nov 1998 20:47:46 +0000
From: mbgardner <mbgardner@freewwweb.com>
To: "'alpines@autox.team.net'" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: gm alternator conversion
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 15:49:11 -0500
Organization: attorney at law
i have successfully completed a gm alternator conversion
haven't figured out what to disconnect from the remaining configuration, i.e., the relay and the idiot
light/flasher unit/warning light simulator/,but the alternator control box is no longer necessary. so i
have a bunch of wires hanging around with taped up ends,until i figure it out. any advise from this
list would be appreciated. also, i don't know about the application to replace a generator. here's
the modification procedure, for those interested. the gm alternator has a long casting for the
pivot/securing bolt. too long to fit the alternator bracket and even if it did fit it would be placed too
far back for the pulley to align with the fan and balancer. you need to remove the alternator
bracket. when observed closely it consists of two pieces of bar stock shaped and welded to each
other. where the front bolt hole is, i hacksawed the inner piece at the elbow and
separated/removed the inner piece of stock with a chisel. this allows you to keep as much of the
alternator housing in tact while maximizing the forward positioning of the alternator. you then have
to hacksaw off approximately 1/4" - 3/8" off the forward bolt casting of the new alternator. cut
vertically through the bolt casting to the body and then perpendicular cut along the casting at the
body to the first cut. this should be carefully measured to correctly align the pulleys. taking off too
little is better than too much! i originally tried to cut a slot in the bolt casting so it could straddle the
slimmer bracket flange, but it eventually broke off, so i wouldn't bother. You then need one new
long bolt and bushing/spacer to bridge the front and back flanges of the modified bracket. a little
trial and error and your set. you also need to procure a curved tensioning bracket to replace the
straight bracket of the lucas alternator. the curved bracket end by the water pump hold down bolt
needs to bent and the new bracket angled and generally beat on with a heavy hammer and anvil to
get it in a servicable alignment. its fairly obvious the curved bracket and spacer can be procured
from your friendly auto electric shop. one word of caution. my guy sold me a modified one-wire
gm alternator with some screwy resistor in parallel with the one-wire and essentially grounded to
the case of the alternator. the theory here was to get the alternator to kick in at low rpms. don't go
even with the ignition off. several dead batteries a head scratching sessions identified this resistor
as the culprit. no problems since removing the resistor. low rpm charging is not an alpine problem
that i can foresee. yours truly m gardner sv cleveland,oh,usayou need to remove the alternator
bracket. when observed closely it
consists of two pieces of bar stock shaped and welded to each other. where
the front bolt hole is, i hacksawed the inner piece at the elbow and
separated/removed the inner piece of stock with a chisel. this allows you
to keep as much of the alternator housing in tact while maximizing the
forward positioning of the alternator.
you then have to hacksaw off approximately 1/4" - 3/8" off the forward bolt
casting of the new alternator. cut vertically through the bolt casting to
the body and then perpendicular cut along the casting at the body to the
first cut. this should be carefully measured to correctly align the
pulleys. taking off too little is better than too much! i originally tried
to cut a slot in the bolt casting so it could straddle the slimmer bracket
flange, but it eventually broke off, so i wouldn't bother.
You then need one new long bolt and bushing/spacer to bridge the front and
back flanges of the modified bracket. a little trial and error and your
set.
you also need to procure a curved tensioning bracket to replace the
straight bracket of the lucas alternator. the curved bracket end by the
water pump hold down bolt needs to bent and the new bracket angled and
generally beat on with a heavy hammer and anvil to get it in a servicable
alignment. its fairly obvious
the curved bracket and spacer can be procured from your friendly auto
electric shop.
one word of caution.
my guy sold me a modified one-wire gm alternator with some screwy resistor
in parallel with the one-wire and essentially grounded to the case of the
alternator. the theory here was to get the alternator to kick in at low
rpms. don't go for it. what he didn't tell me is that it essentially
creates a permanent drain on the battery as well even with the ignition
off. several dead batteries a head scratching sessions identified this
resistor as the culprit. no problems since removing the resistor. low rpm
charging is not an alpine problem that i can foresee.
yours truly
m gardner
sv cleveland,oh,usa
â Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 914486618.50422-1 ; Thu, 24 Dec 1998 08:03:38 +0000
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1998 00:15:39 -0800
From: Jarrid Gross <jarrid_gross@earthlink.net>
To: Robert Wiseman <rob@wisemaninsurance.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition connections.
Robert Wiseman wrote:
> Hi, How many wires should be coming from my ignition, 61 Series I, no
> radio. There are 7 or 8 connections, but only 6 wires at present.
> Rob
That is the correct number of wires assuming that you have a heater.
There are actually only 4 contacts on the switch, 2 of the 4 contacts are
shared
among two wires.
1= Lights main supply/regulator A1 output (This is where the juice comes
from)
2= ignition switched/warning light
3 = starter solenoid field wire
4= heater/radio supply feed.
As a bit of trivia (since I have the book open), fuse 2 protects, the
gauges, brake lights, flashers and the horns. Fuse 1, which is generally
not used, protects the cigar lighter, and the yet to be seen factory under
bonnet light.
Totally unprotected are the following:
Heater/radio.
Overdrive relay and solenoid.
Ignition coil.
All lights inside and out.
Kinda scary huh?
Jarrid
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:44:26 -0800
From: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>
To: "James E. Pickard" <geowiz@www.worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Speakers
This is a little long, and should be skipped by those NOT interested in a
radio in their Tigers or Alpines.
"James E. Pickard" wrote:
> ...... Now, how about recommendations for workable speaker
> locations? I'm not looking for concert hall quality here. Just a
> workable radio I can hear above the roar of the engine and rush of the
> wind. (More like the idle of the engine while stuck in traffic).
> Suggestions?
>
> Jim Pickard
> B9473298
Jim,
I assume you got a new stereo unit and want 2 speakers. I have just
finished such an installation, and would be happy to tell you my solutions.
I purchased a pair of dual speaker (not dual cone) Sparkomatic SK42
speakers. They come in a closed box, about 41/2 in. square, with a "U"
shaped support and a "foot" that connects the support to the car.
Everything is adjustable, as far as rotation, angle, etc., so it is very
flexible. These speakers sound awfully good for the price (about
$42/pair), and were meant for the small pick-'em-ups.
I mounted the small foot on the rear vertical surface of the structural
"box" section behind the dash at the left and right sides (one is actually
behind the glove box). You may need a right angle drill to start this
process, and some self tapping sheet metal screws are recommended. I
located the exact position by assembling the speakers and supports and
seeing where they would fit. They can not bee seen unless you stick your
head under the dash, and they sound fine. After these two pads are
mounted, everything else just attaches to them with the screws and
adjustment knobs in the kit.
I am using a Pioneer CD radio inside a small black plastic universal radio
box mounted on the front lip of the center dash bottom. There are three
screw holes along the front, and more around the horizontal lip. It
accommodates radios that have 'knobs', as well as the new ones that plug
into a rectangular hole and were available for about $8 at Pep Boys. A
portion of the center back wall must be removed to clear the wiper motor,
and a bracket connected across the center for the rear support. This is
easily made from aluminum or steel, and can be bent up to meet the unused
threaded holes in the dash support struts and the side located box holes..
Easy in and out. With the new radio mounts, and the correct slack in the
wires, you can even pull the radio in/out without removing the box.
I used a CD because those old 60's AM radios can't get the '60's stations.
But the CD's can. Love tooling down the road with the Beach Boys singing
"Little Deuce Coupe". It fits the Tiger so well --- " You don't know what
I got"
Hope this helps,
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/_/_/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/_/_/_/__/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/
_/_/_/
y Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: OldeAlp@aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 May 1996 21:35:42 -0400
To: ELVIS@VAX1.MANKATO.MSUS.EDU
Subject: Re: + and -
Pos earth is fine _unless_ you want to add a stereo system, electric antenna,
car alarm, or other modern goodies, most of which require neg ground
connections. You can play around with isolating those add-ons, but one
little misstep can cause a big blowup.
And of course, the biggest improvement to an electrical system (if you are
not a purist) is changing to an alternator. I'm not aware of any that
support positive ground.
"Ole"
¥ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: Derek Jewett <jewett@sierra.net>
To: "'Tony Leeming'" <tleeming@mail.island.net>
Subject: RE: + and -
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 22:53:34 -0700
Hey for those of us who have not converted, Radio Shack makes a thing =
that converts pos ground to neg ground for car stereos, alarms, etc. I =
have a spare one if somebody needs one, I think you can still get them, =
they even work with 6 volt systems too.
Derek
SII (Positive Ground)
Á Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: 14 Aug 96 18:30:47 EDT
From: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
To: <TEdlund@aol.com>, <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: FWD: Re: Re: Windshield and Horns.
Terry, here is that message I received from Steve Finberg:
The Clear Hooter horns have a mechanical contact which inturupts the
current allowing it to buz .. very much like a mechanical house bell.
As the horn hoots the contact will arc and wear away. If you are lucky
it has just gotten a layer of oxside on it or some crud in the gap.
Opening it up and dressing ( cleaning and smothing) the contact may cure it.
But first try this .. Try adjusting it to make full contact (full CW).
If i
t touches the horn shoud draw lots of current. If there is a layer of
corrosi
on it won't. But by cycling the adjustment back and forth you might losen
enough of the crud to get it to work. Then back off the contact
till the horn draws the rated current. ( <3.5 A)
If you have to open it up and clean / replace the contact...
I don't think there are replacement parts available.. however an old dime .
..
the real silver kind.. makes good contact material. When you solder it down
be carefull to keep the solder off the contact surfaces. Solder it in place
then file the surface to the correct shape.
I have come across a few Clear Hooters which wouldn't work but have not
yet attempted any surgury as I seemed to have enough working ones. :-)
Most Alpines came with two, when they stoped working usually some aftermarke
t
replacement was squezed in. Rarely was an adjustment attempted .. thus
leaving plenty of adjustment range for us to play with.
B Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: 31 Oct 95 11:58:58 EST
From: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
To: <JAMES.S.BRADY@sprint.sprint.com>, <alpines@autox.team.net>,
<tigers@alpine.b17a.ingr.com>
Subject: RE: Instrument Rebuild Recommendations
***** NOTES from Jay Laifman (JLAIFMAN @ PNM) at 10/31/95 8:39a
"Don't they all?" I have a warning -- speedometers need internal
lubrication! I learned this the hard way through destruction of my speedo.
For many years my speedo sweeped. I thought it was the cable or cable
housing. I went to a local shop that made me a new cable. It fixed the
problem for quite a number of years. When it started again, I got a new
cable and housing and made sure that the route of the cable did not cause
any excessive bends. This time nothing changed. I shrugged and let it go.
On a long trip a few weeks back, the speedo started making sort of a
slight rubbing noise. I thought I should probably reach under and unscrew
the cable. But, I didn't. Within about 50 miles the speedo just stopped
at a reading of 80 mph - which was not my speed but a result of the
sweeping, and slightly lower profile tires than original stock.
Fortunately there was a swap meet a week later. I picked up an
original guage for cheap that apparently had "sweeping" problem as well.
I had just read somewhere that the sweeping could also be caused by dirt
on the spinning magnet, or the cup it turns (the flat magnet is directly
attached to the cable, and is surrounded [without touching] by a metal cup
which is attached to the needle. The faster the cable and magnet spins,
the more magnetic pull there is on the cup which causes the needle to
advance). I took apart my guage to find that the cam that connects the
cable to the odometer (a direct drive off of a small gear) froze up solid
which caused the cable to freeze up at the speedo end which in turn caused
the cable to snap - so much for my new cable. I was able to construct a
complete good guage from the two of them and now have a working guage --
with lubricated cams.
You have all been warned!
Jay Laifman
 Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: 21 Sep 95 15:58 EDT
From: calvert@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Thomas Calvert)
Subject: re: Intro & Questions
To: adpsya2.bmcfarla@uiamvs.weeg.uiowa.edu
It is possible to install a negative ground radio in your Alpine by
keeping it isolated from the car chassis (anything metal) and then hooking
the radio power wire to the chassis of the car and the chassis of the radio
to the car power source. You also need to make sure you do not get
any stray conections when installing the antenna or the speakers. It
is a good idea to put a diode bridge in the power lines to the radio
to prevent any damage if it is hooked up backwards.
The tach reading high when warmed up is a common problem. It can usually
be fixed by replacing a capacitor inside the tachometer. The Tiger
mail list just had a thread on this. I think it is on the Tiger web
page also. There is information in the TE/AE Sunbeam Survivor tech
tips as well.
Tom Calvert
Ý Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in4.ibm.net id 875785044.45748-1 ; Thu, 02 Oct 1997 09:37:24 +0000
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 23:40:13 -1000
From: dan evans <fallon@sprynet.com>
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: radio ho'
Jerome Yuzyk wrote:
>
> dan evans <fallon@sprynet.com> wrote:
> > Jerome Yuzyk wrote:
> > >
> > > dan evans <fallon@sprynet.com> wrote:
> > > > Dude, i've 3 alpines in my time. all american imports, one s1, two
> > >
>
> > my car stereo consists of sony cd head unit,kenwood 4 ch 100w amp,
> > 5 1/4 component set for the front channel(tweeters mounted on both sides
> > of the dash, the 5 1/4 speakers I placed in the kick panels) 5 1/4
> > kickers for the rear (mounted in the doors) the amp has features to
> > change freqences to each channel, so an eq is'nt needed. it also has
> > a low pass output to a 50 watt amp i've bridged into a 10 inch sub
> > tube. my car has a new gm alt, and a diehard heat handeler batt.
>
> I was going to do a CD player, 5-1/4" speakers in the kick panels, and
> little tweeters just below the dash, angled up and in a little. With a
> Series II there isn't a lot of room for a boom tube *and* the few things
> I carry in the trunk. I thought I might hang one under the rear deck
> (next to the battery carrier), with a cover. I wondered about speakers
> in the doors. Since I'm going to replace the panels anyway, I'll have a
> good look at things then.
>
> > conduction port under the speaker. mounted the whole deal with adhesive
>
> Never thought about porting, hmmm...
>
> > I simply cut the panel "carefully" to provide opening for the speaker
> > then I used a 1/8 hole punch to make the "grill" in the vinyl.
>
> Doesn't this make the vinyl prone to tearing?
>
> > under the carpet, the tube sets in a custom made mount to secure it.
> > the space the trunk provides is a fantastic resonant chamber.
>
> You have this luxury after Series 2. Maybe I can find a tube that will
> fit below the stowed top, but I'm resigned to having a tube *or* my
> tools (at this stage quite important) in the trunk.
>
> I too want to keep the stereo invisible, but a little moreso since I
> drive the car a lot and don't want to have to always fuss with a
> removable faceplate.
>
> How does your CD mount handle rough roads? Ours are always rough
> somewhere because of the heat and cold, and I thought some isolation
> from the frame would be good.
>
> --
>
> -- J e r o m e Y u z y k | jerome@supernet.ab.ca --
> -- BRIDGE Scientific Services | www.tgx.com/bridge --
> -- Sunbeam Alpine Series II #9118636 | + /sunbeam/section/document.htm --
JEROME, jvc put out a cd player this year that is a 4 channel with
100 watts (peak) per ch, that'll save lotsa room for ya. pioneer
makes a self powered subwoofer that fits in the spare tire.
aura makes a transducer set (with its own amp, 50 watts) called
bass shakers. the units fit under the seats, I've a friend that
installed them in a midget,works real good. I went with the tube
because of the big trunk in the 5.
I've not had a problem with tearing, the handles help cover the speaker.
the jvc cd player I mentioned has a remote, so you could in fact mount
it way up under the dash on the passenger side where no one would even
think about looking for a deck. it also had a 3rd line out for a sub amp
if you ran a 5 1/4 component set in the panels/dash and 5 1/4 in the
doors you'll have the highs and mids covered, either the shakers or
the "spare" woofer and that'll round out yer system.
check out a cructhfeilds you'll find all these products there.
I live in hawaii and drive my car everyday, i also park it on the north
shore when I go surfing. I put the head unit (detachable plate) so if
some moke really wanted it he could get it out with minimal damage to
the car. I've been lucky so far no one has went for it yet.
no problems with skipping, I've put a lot of work into my car so it
rides smooth, ( new joints, rod ends, koni shocks, good tires).
make sure your electrical system is up to par.. ie neg ground,
modern alt, and no shorts or ? wiring per dpo...
later... dan...
} Received: from b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: Mark_W_Olson@ccm11.sc.intel.com
(5.65c/IDA-1.4.4 for <alpines@autox.team.net>); Sun, 10 Sep 1995 22:55:48 -0700
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 95 22:56:17 PST
To: tigers@spice.sc.intel.com, alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re[2]: Tach/Speedo Error
It's most likely the 0.22mF timing cap. If not that, the germanium
transistors sometime develop a temperature sensitivity. I checked
several Tigers at the British Car meet in Palo Alto today and they were
all off from a little to a lot.
Check out my Tach Tech Tip on the new Web Site. It's got all the
details you need to know.
The web site server just crashed on me a few minutes ago, so it may not
be up again till about 8:00AM tomorrow PDT. I'll let you know.
Mark
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Tach/Speedo Error
Author: DSand95510@aol.com at SMTPGATE
Date: 9/9/95 10:02 AM
In a message dated 95-09-09 04:59:26 EDT, EPX120@aol.com writes:
> Sometimes when the speedo is reading 70 the tach reads 3500 ( I
>have a 356 rear), a little later I notice that the speedo is still reading
70
>but the tach now reads 4200.
I've had a similar problem with my tach. Often just as the car is almost
warmed up, the tach will begin to read about 15% over actual, then after
another ten minutes it will suddenly read accurately again. The guage shows
no other obvious problems, like the needle sticking, jerking or wildly waving
etc. What component(s) would change the reading as the car warms up?
DS
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Date: 08 Feb 96 13:35:51 EST
From: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
To: <anthonyr@aqua.civag.unimelb.edu.au>, <ALPINES@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Smith's clock - Keyed power
Greg writes:
I have just put the original clock back in my Series II Alpine. It starts
OK and keeps pretty good time when it is running but it has a propensity to
stop. The more you use the car the longer it keeps running. It is likely to
stop after about two hours of being left in the car.
Does anybody have some advice for me please? Meanwhile I'm going under the
philosophy that it's just been dormant for too long and with a little bit of
use it will fix itself!
(Note: I'd certainly rather avoid pulling it to bits as my hands are big and
I tend to break important little things)
============================================================================
"Yeah yeah'" Greg Matthews, balding ex Australian Test Cricketer.
============================================================================
***** NOTES from Jay Laifman (JLAIFMAN @ PNM) at 2/8/96 10:03a
Your problem is that you have the wrong hot wire. You are using a keyed
wire and should be using a wire that is always hot. The way the clock
works is that when the mechanical spring gets low on tension, it uses
power to wind itself up. When your key is off, it cannot wind itself up
and it runs down. If you are driving it often, the chances are increased
that the key is on when power is needed.
Jay
Jay S. Laifman
Pircher, Nichols & Meeks
1999 Avenue of the Stars
Los Angeles, California
(310) 201-8915
Real Estate Attorneys
h Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: "Steven Semeraro, ATR, (202) 514-8374" <semerasx@justice.usdoj.gov>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Under Bonnet Light
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 16:45:36 -0400 (EDT)
My car came with a light under the bonnet on the left hand side
of the firewall. It lights up the area around the dip stick,
spark plugs, and distributor. I've found it useful when checking
the oil at night and even when doing a tune-up in the garage.
I've always assumed that a PO simply put this in, but a recent
issue of the Rootes Review included a list of options including a
bonnet light. I'd never seen this item listed before. The
on/off switch for mine is located between the lights and the
panel switches under the clock opening. When I bought the car,
it had a small chrome switch that was broken. I replaced it with
a standard switch to match the others. Does anyone else have an
under-bonnet light that might be an original option? Any other
info or ideas on this?
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Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 09:21:31 -0400
From: John Slade <edalsj@igs.net>
Organization: Island View Associates
To: Frank Marrone <marrone@wco.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring Question
Hi Frank,
Assume you are looking at wires up behind the dash in the car, and not
at a harness removed from the car.
I have two harnesses hanging from my basement ceiling, one absolutely
original (from a S IV) and one pretty near original (from an S III).
Both are still wrapped with the factory blue tape. Both have only four
wires coming from the harness in the location you describe....two green,
one red with green, and one red with brown. As a matter of fact, there
are no other wires leaving the harness within 18 inches in either
direction.
All four of these wires connect to the wiper motor...the wires from the
motor are wrapped in the old cotton covering, and the colours fade a bit
but can usually be guessed correctly. Both green wires connect to the
pale green motor wire using one of those Lucas double connectors, the
red/green connects to the red motor wire, and the red/brown connects to
the brown motor wire.
Provided your car is a GT model, I think I can answer your question
about a fifth wire, since my S III (also a GT) has an extra wire in this
general area, but it doesn't come from the harness. The wire is purple
and YELLOW....I don't think there is a purple and white wire in the
wiring system of any Alpine...and is used to connect to the courtesy
light switch in the right hand door lower hinge....one of the hinge
securing screws has a funny projection from its centre which gets pushed
in when the door closes, or it should do if its working correctly...this
is the switch, and there should be a similar on on the left hand lower
door hinge. They operate the light above the windshield whenever one of
the doors is opened.....nice feature, and retro-fittable to non GT
models provided you can find the bits. The purple/yellow wire plugs into
the back of the screw switch, and can be accessed by removing the
screw...use a largish Phillips screw driver, gently push down the
projection with the screw driver until the head is properly engaged, and
unscrew the screw. The whole lot will come out the hole and you can see
the connection on the back. If there is no wire there, you will have to
run one into the hole and up and out behind the dash to connect to the
wire you have there. Note that there is no voltage on this wire, it is
merely a ground wire which makes a connection when the switch is closed
(door opened).
John Slade
Manotick, ON
† Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 905176271.93414-1 ; Mon, 07 Sep 1998 13:51:11 +0000
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 09:49:23 -0400
From: John Slade <edalsj@igs.net>
Organization: Island View Associates
To: Frank Marrone <marrone@wco.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring Question
Hi Frank,
Further to my last, if you don't join both greens together at the wiper motor
location, something else (by my reading of the wiring diagram that means the
brake lights) won't get any power. The larger of the two green wires comes
from the fuse panel with 12volt power. It connects to the wiper motor, but
then the smaller of the two greens carries on from this connection (nothing to
do with the motor) to provide the power for the brake lights through the brake
light switch.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
û Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 903975126.60686-1 ; Mon, 24 Aug 1998 16:12:06 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: Message Alpine <alpines@autox.team.net>,
T Wiencek
<t_wiencek@qmgate.anl.gov>
Subject: RE: Wiring Harnesses
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 09:07:00 -0700
Tom,
>I bought a new wiring harness from British Wiring (Illinois) and have had
nothing but >trouble. The one they sold me has major differences from the
one I pulled out of my >car. They say that my Series II (Which was built in
France and is a French >Specification car) has a different wiring harness
from a US spec. car? Is this true? >Has anyone else had problems getting a
wiring harness for a Series II? Thanks. >Tom
I thought it would be difficult reproducing just about any automotive
harness accurately.
I anticipated having just the grief that you are, so I bought a junk harness
from another alpine for spare wire and connectors.
The color codes are very similar between years, so the correct colors
will likely be present if you can get a SI to 4, but not a S2.
I spliced new wires to repair the usual DPO electrical modifications,
and found that there were no overheated of melted wires internally.
The whole harness was opened by removing the PVC jacket back
as far as the DPO modified it.
Splicing was done with solder, and a shrink wrap, using the correct
color, length and connector end.
After all was done, I used new PVC jacket "NOT ELECTRICAL TAPE"
to wind the thing up again.
Looks like new, and functions flawlessly.
Put fuses linline with anything suspect, by making a pigtail
fuse with a male spade on one end, and a female on the other.
This way, you can have a safe, but otherwise "correct" harness.
Jarrid
Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: w1gsl@MIT.EDU
To: TEdlund@aol.com, alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Alternator Questions
<960116103151_62487069@mail06.mail.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 09:49:06 EST
Hi Terry
RE : Alpine V Alternator Warning Light Simulator (WLS)
Ah another fine example of darkness engineering from Lucas.
They put just about everything needed in to do it right but
proceed to hook it up bass ackwards...
I suppose they had an excuse.. it was one of their first alternator
attempts with a solid state (transistorized) regulator...
The AL terminal on the 10AC alternator produces about 12V AC
when the alternator is working. The 3AW warning light simulator
is a thermal relay that breaks the warning light bulb circuit
when the AL terminal is over a few volts.
To test a 3AW measure the resistance between the WL and E
terminals, it should be less than 1 ohm with no other connections.
Then apply about 6 Volts between the AL and E terminal the
circuit between WL and E should open.
I have found the 3AW WLS to be less than robust and the last
time mine died (about 15 years ago...) to be overly expensive. I
was particularly bent when the second replacement lasted less than
three months. My solution.. because I wanted to keep the show Alpine
stock.. was to take the dead 3AW and replace it's guts with a 3
transistor circuit. The modification and circuit was published
at the time in the TEAE newsletter. The $3 (in parts) circuit
has worked quite reliably.. If I can find it I'll try to dig
out the old tech tip and post it.. It should be on a floppy
somewhere.. Now where will I find an 8" drive?
The prince of darkness dilemma is that with just a slight
rearrangement of the parts a much more reliable system could have
been designed.
The problem with the stock system is that if the warning light
comes on the alternator is in danger of burning out. When the
voltage regulator senses no alternator output it applies full
current to the field winding. Without air circulation this can
cause the field to go open in less than an hour. Ironically this
places a heavy, several amp, load on the battery just as you have
lost the charging source. If you find you must drive some
distance without the alternator turning, unplug the field
connector at the alternator or regulator. The same failure can
occur if the ignition is accidently left on with the engine
stopped. The main design fault is that the alternator field
current is supplied directly from the battery. When the warning
light comes on .. don't just ignore it you could be killing your
alternator.
Modern alternator designs neatly solve this problem and avoid the
need for a 3AW WLS by suppling the starting current for the
field via the warning light itself. As the alternator comes up
to speed a set of diodes in the alternator feed power to the field
circuit, reducing the current drawn through the warning light
there by turning it off. If the alternator stops producing for
any reason the field current again comes via the warning light
but is limited to a fraction of an amp by the series light bulb.
Fortunately the Alpine warning light is connected such that with
a modern alternator a direct connection to the equivalent of the
AL terminal accomplishes the proper function without the need for
a 3AW. Often one finds a resistor in parallel with the warning
light. This slightly increases the starting current but more
importantly assures alternator start up even if the warning light
has burned out.
It would seem to be possible to modify the 10AC alternator by
adding 3 internal diodes to convert the AL terminal to DC, make
another internal connection to feed the field from the AL terminal,
and add a jumper connection inside a 3AW shell to accomplish the
modern design and retain the appearance of stock. I haven't tried
this so you are on your own to work out the details. Let me know
if you try.
Steve F
*******************************************************************************
Steve Finberg W1GSL w1gsl@mit.edu
PO Box 397082 MIT Br Cambridge MA 02139-7082 617 258 3754
*******************************************************************************
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in5.ibm.net id 884635382.154186-1 ; Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:03:02 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: "'Alpine Subscribers'" <alpines@autox.team.net>,
"Christie, Scott E. (CAP, GEFA)" <Scott.Christie@gecapital.com>
Subject: RE: ammeters
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:57:00 -0800
----------
From: Christie, Scott E. (CAP, GEFA)
>Would someone respond as to the proper way to hook up an ammeter for us
>generator types?
>Scott Christie
>Series 3 Alpine Registry
On non ammeter equiped cars, there is a heavy gauge jumper from the
solenoid post to the "A" terminal on the voltage regulator.
To put in an ammeter, remove this jumper and put the + lead on the
ammeter to the "A" terminal, and the - lead on the ammeter to
the solenoid post.
Terminal "A" is connected to the generator output through the low
resistance current cutout relay, so what you see is the generator
output current or discharge subtarcted from the field current.
As Steve Finberg said in the SV ammeter post, this doesnt let
you see just the battery charging current.
But non the less, is how vehicles of the time were wired.
See the series II electrical Schematic on Jeromes
Alpine Page for details.
Jarrid Gross
½ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 884625730.72404-1 ; Mon, 12 Jan 1998 17:22:10 +0000
From: w1gsl@MIT.EDU
To: siegfried <sdoerrer@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: connecting an ammeter
<34B801AC.2054@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 12:19:28 EST
Hi Seigfried
For proper ammeter operation you want it to read the charge and discharge
current flowing to the battery. For practial reasons (the ammeter dosen't
read high enough ) the starter current is ignored.
All of the connections will be made to what you call the Family 1 of wires.
There should be 4 wires on that stud.
The heavy wire which comes directly from the battery will be the only
one not to move. The Negative Ammeter terminal is added to the
stud conection. All of the other wires are connected together and
connect to the Positive Ammeter Terminal.
Don't butcher your electrical system by stripping and twisting wires
together. These wires carry fairly high currents and good
connections are critical to reliable operation of the car.
Get crimp or preferably solder on lugs which fit the stud and use them
on the ammeter wires. Get a 3/8" (or is it 5/16" its been too many years)
bolt and use it to connect all the other wires. Use a good lock washer to
insuere tension is maintained. A small piece of fiberglass board will
allow you to mount this on the existing stud. It will be reliable, look
good and be totally reversable. If you chose to let the new connection
float around .. be sure to tape it well.. a short to ground will burn out
the ammeter and can easily start a fire..
10 gage should be fine #8 might be better. Normally it will carry zero
current but just after starting and if the alternator fails it needs
to carry up to 35 Amps. For normal insulation the electric code
only allows 30 A in #10 while 35A is allowed for high temp rated insulation.
#8 allows 35 amps for all common insulations.
BTW be sure to disconnect the battery before doing any work on the
soloniod, The first time I did this mod I didn't and the wrench
burned a 1/2" hole in the clutch master cylinder resevoir, as I undid
the first nut :-(.
Steve F
*******************************************************************************
Steve Finberg W1GSL w1gsl@mit.edu
PO Box 397082 MIT Br Cambridge MA 02139-7082 617 258 3754
*******************************************************************************
 Received: from 198.161.21.5 [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 884633328.10386-1 ; Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:28:48 +0000
From: w1gsl@MIT.EDU
To: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
Subject: Re: connecting an ammeter
<199801121733.JAA26717@mail-lax-2.pilot.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:24:51 EST
Hi Jarrid
I must take exception to both of your ammeter posts..
Classically automotive ammeters read the battery current.
If the electrial system is working properly a zero reading is
normally correct.
In the event of your short you are not going to get "hundreds of
ammps" out of the alternator.. but it will limit at about 35 A
(with the Lucas 10AC alternator in a Series V) and then you will
see a large discharge from the battery which will indicate on the ammeter.
As long as the alternator can keep up with the load current we should
be happy. It is when we get extended charge or discharge that we know
something is wrong.
In normal opreration I would expect to see a charge reading up to 35 A
imediatly after starting whigh quickly decrease (in a minuite or two)
to zero, to make up for the starter discharge. While running with stock
equipment a zero reading is normal. If you have installed extra loads..
big fog lights ... a big sterio... etc a discharge (-) reading indicates
the small alternator can't keep up and they are discharging the battery.
If the engine stops the ammeter now reads the full load current as
the alternator is not putting out any current.
If the alternnator fails a large discharge indicates no uotput current
as above. A large non decreasing charge current indicates a battery
or regulator failure. This is the most usefull function as over charging
is a sure way to rapidly kill a battery
In your reply the text suggests you want to measure the alternator output
current. This will varry dramatically as the loads change and will never
indicate discharge due to the rectifier diodes in the alternator.
Your schematic at the bottem is wrong. It will damage the ammeter the
first time the car is started. The starter will try to draw up to 300A
from the battery through the meter... :-(
Jarrid's schematic;
<Heres a crude schematic
<<alt B+>-------------(+ ammeter -)------------+(solenoid)
<|
<|___________(battery)
<|
<|___________(Fuse panel)
My crude attmpt at a correct ASCII schematic
new stud existing studs
Alt B+ -----------------O----- + Ammeter - ----- O solenoid O --- stsrter
red wire | |
| |
/ \ |
/ \ Battery +
4TR Fuse
Regulator (loads)
I have made this mod to 3 of my series Vs. It has been functional
in one for over 25 years!
Steve F
*******************************************************************************
Steve Finberg W1GSL w1gsl@mit.edu
PO Box 397082 MIT Br Cambridge MA 02139-7082 617 258 3754
*******************************************************************************
¾
Received: from newmarket.imag.net [204.244.225.33] by in3.ibm.net id 897329266.96412-1 ; Mon, 08 Jun 1998 18:07:46 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: lauri@lorenzo.pp.fi
Subject: Re: Generator or regulator?
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 11:02:00 -0700
----------
From: lauri@lorenzo.pp.fi
To: Julian Cranwell
Subject: Re: Generator or regulator?
Date: Monday, June 08, 1998 3:33AM
>Can it loose polarity during use? Charging was ok. when I took my Beam to
>the traffic about 6 weeks ago, and it vanished about 3 weeks ago?
Not very likely.
>I tried to connect field windings straight from the battery during run, but
>I could see no effect (well, I did not see the ammeter either!)
This sounds like the current cutout, or the voltage cut in contacts are
defective.
Bert Clewits tells there being 2 coil and 3 coil regulators.
The 2 coil regulators integrate the cutout and the cut in contacts
on the same relay.
Since a seemingly saturated field coild produces no charge, here
are some tests,
1) Remove the field wire from the dynamo, and measure the field
resistance to ground. Should be very low (less than 2 ohms).
Do this at the wire at the regulator (pin F).
This clears the field and field wire of wrongdoing.
2) With field wire connected to the battery, measure the voltage on the
dynamo output terminal. It should be about 13v at 1100 RPM, and higher
at higher RPMs. With open contacts, it could go as high as 25 volts.
Do this at the wire at the regulator (pin D).
This clears the dynamo of wrongdoing.
3) Does the regulator have a good ground (pin E)?
Regulator ground is good.
4) Do both pins A and A1 show ~+13.5v "battery voltage"?
This clears the solenoid to regulator wiring and ammeter "if fitted".
With all wires re-connected and the key switched to on "engine off",
you should measure...
1) Battery voltage at "Pin F", if not, then the regulators field relay
is bad, or mal-adjusted.
2) Low voltage at "Pin D" perhaps less than a volt. This is because the
charging lamp returns through "pin D" into the regulator relays and the
generator windings.
When all is well and working, the field coil will vibrate as is modulates
the field current while regulating the voltage. The voltage cut in relay
wil visibly move somewhere above 1000 RPM. The current cut out
relay will open at around 30 amps "good luck verifiying this".
The Lucas regulators(3 coil) are easily adjusted, but the japanese
aftermarket ones (2 coil) require bending terminals to adjust anything,
which is dificult/touchy and it is very easy to short stuff out in the
regulator.
I hope this helps a bit, and let us know.
Jarrid Gross
Z Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: nyclewit@nyhp03.serigate.philips.nl
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 1996 16:03:54 +0200
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Hello, Filters, Tach, +Ground
To: Bob Goyden <bobg@globaltrav.com>
From: Bert Clewits nyclewit@nyhp03.serigate.philips.nl
Subject: Re: Hello, Filters, Tach, +Ground
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 96 11:44:00 PDT
From: Bob Goyden <bobg@globaltrav.com>
Subject: Hello, Filters, Tach, +Ground
Bob Goyden <bobg@globaltrav.com> wrote:
>My tach stops at 3000. Can this be fixed without replacement?
>I was given an am/fm radio by my family. After frying the first one when
>trying to install I was told that it needed to be totally isolated from
>the chassis as this car has a positive ground to the chassis. So the
>shop did that work, but the radio wont receive am as they claim there is
>not a way to run to the am antenna without also having that positive
>ground happen. Does any of this make sense to anyone?
tacho:
Get the tacho off the car and open it up by twisting the housing.
Then have a look at the capacitors, remove the big black one if it is
cracked for a new one of the same value.
Then remove the PTC resistor and the parrallel resistor for a slightly
bigger one.
(The PTC is a little disk shaped one, standing uprighton the printed circuit board)
Then drill a hole in the back of the housing where the adjustment is
(potmeter)
Then built it into the dash again, connect a timing light with rev counter
or separate rev counter to your ignition.
Start the Alp and if you put the dial of the revcounter in front of the screen
you can with a small scewdriver adjust the potmeter while revving the engine at
100 rpm and 2000 rpm and voila ready !
Can you supply me with the exact tacho chassis number it's on the dial at the bottom
FM radio:
get a anti theft cassette made from plastic built the radio in that
and change the antenna connection remove the mass connection and connect it
with a separate lead to the chassis (of the car not the radio).
(make sure to remove the connection from the mass of the antenna lead to the radio
housing)
Plug in a normal areal and the radio should should be receiving properly !
Good Luck
Bert Clewits
'64 Alpine S IV GT OD moonstone white
Ä Received: from b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 11:06:59 -0800
From: Daniel Levitin <levitin@cogsci.uoregon.edu>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Hooking up An Ammeter
The world of Alpine owners is in universal syncronicity;
I just hooked up an ammeter to my series V last week.
It requires a bit of rewiring.
Right now, your wiring should look something like this:
Battery --> Thick, ugly black cable to Starter Solonoid
Starter Solonoid --> Thick brown wire to alternator B+
--> Two thin brown wires to fuse box/ignition key
Your ammeter ought to have two wires, one marked B+ and one marked
L+. The ammeter needs to be in-line with the circuit, and you want
to put the ammeter as far "back" in the circuit (ie, on the main feed
from the battery to everything else) as possible, in order to read
the net current flow, positive or negative, for the whole car.
Conceptually, you want to have the ammeter between the starter
solonoid and any other wiring. You could accomplish this by
disconnecting those three brown wires from the starter solonoid and
reconnecting all of them to one side of your ammeter, and then
connecting the other side of your ammeter to the solonoid. Now the
current has to pass through the ammeter on its way from the battery
to everything else (when the flow is negative) and from everything
else to the battery (when the flow is positive because the system is
charging).
As a practical matter, to minimize effort and new connections on my
part, the way i hooked up the ammeter was like this: I disconnected
the three brown wires from the solonoid, and connected them to each
other (with a butt connector). Now the only wire on the + side of the
solonoid is that huge ugly black cable coming into it. There's
another big ugly black cable going out to the starter, and a skinny
white/red striped wire coming off the middle of the solonoid that
goes to (I think) the voltage regulator. I ran a wire from the spade
lug terminal on the solonoid where the two brown wires had been to my
ammeter. The other end of the ammeter should connect to the junction
of those three brown wires we connected together a minute ago. But I
didn't have a butt connector big enough to get 4 wires into, and
besides, I think the original factory wiring of the ammeter did it
this way: Connect the other end of the ammeter to the Alternator B+
spade lug terminal. Mine had an open terminal, part of the same
piece that the thick brown wire was running to. Remember, the other
end of this thick brown wire is now just connected to the two thin
brown wires, so it's just a matter of how you want to bring all these
together.
BE SURE TO USE 10 GUAGE WIRE IN HOOKING UP THE AMMETER OR YOU RISK AN
ELECTRICAL FIRE.
I can't remember now whether B+ or L+ is the positive or negative
side of the ammeter, but you could easily switch these if your meter
is reading negative (I'm at my office and the schematics are at
home).
Good luck and let us know how it works.
l Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: 31 Oct 95 19:47:42 EST
From: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
To: <Kevin.Sullivan@sfo-nichols.com>
<TIGERS@alpine.b17a.ingr.com>, <BRITISH-CARS@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: RE: Instrument Rebuild Recommendations
I rebuilt my Sunbeam speedometer by feel since I had an extra one to
risk damage. The following is what I did. I cannot swear that this is the
best way or even the correct way to do it for my Sunbeam or any other car.
I slightly bent out the tabs of the chrome ring, using a small
screwdriver and keeping pressure on the outside edge of the chrome ring so
as to not distort it. I only bent the tabs out enough to rotate the ring
-- once the tabs line up with the slots the ring will pull off. The glass
follows.
To take off the needle, I learned the hard way by damaging one of the
guages (I tried to pry it off with a pair of screwdrivers and bent the
shaft). I found that the best way was to stick my finger in through the
light bulb hole and rest it on the metal cup that surrounds the magnet.
While holding the cup from rotating, I lightly twisted the needle and
pulled it off. I do not know what the experts do. By the way, a "cup"
may not be the exact description. It is more of a 1.75" diameter disk
with about a 1/8" lip all the way around -- as if the bottom of a can was
sawed off with part of the walls left.
After removing a couple of small screws, the face comes off -- be
carefull not to bend the "0" pin on the face. Two screws on the back of
the guage allow the mechanism to come out -- except that the adjusting rod
picture of the entire stack of springs and washers, etc. of the rod so it
can go back together properly. Second, if you push the gear on the rod
up, you will find a little pin which needs to be pulled out, invariably it
fall out and get stuck on the magnet. Third, at the top of the rod is a
circlip that pulls off and allows the entire rod to be disassembled and
removed. Then the speedo mechanism comes out.
With the mechanism out you will see two gears running off of the
single gear attached to the speedo cable mount. These two gears are
attached to metal rods running through the speedo mechanism housing to
the other end where a small cam pushes and pulls the odometer and
tripmeter levers. There is a small clip at that end which after removal
allows you to pull out the gear, rod and cam. This is what freezed up on
mine. I cleaned it and lubed it with a tube of distributor cam grease I
had (I can't say that this is the best for the application). Then I put
it all back together -- in the reverse order, as they say.
Also, there was an adjusting screw close to the top of the speedo
shaft which pushed or pulled a plate which seemed to adjust the play in
the speedo shaft, and therefore the metal disc. I thought there was too
much play so I tightened it a little. After I put it all back together
and installed it, I found that the needle stuck or would not move quickly
enough. I ended up taking off the glass and face again and reinstalled
it (with a cardboard needle stop I taped in) and ran it without the face,
adjusting that tension screw until it worked freely, without wobble, and
then put it all back together.
I guess that is just about it. Oh, one last thing. I do not know
what the proper procedure is for determining where the needle should go
on the shaft. I left it so that it rested on the "0" pin, with maybe a
very very slight pressure (for all I know any amount of pressure will
advance the deterioration of the spring). It seems to be working
correctly (or at least as close as it ever did). I understand that to
recalibrate a speedo, they replace the spring that the needle and disc
turn against to slow or speed up the rate of needle advancement (I
always thought replacing the gear at the transmission end was how it was
done -- maybe both are alternatives and it depends on availability of
parts).
Good luck.
Jay Laifman
` Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 95 09:19:47 PST
From: winbladg@apps5.credence.com (Gary Winblad)
To: Kevin.Sullivan@sfo-nichols.com, JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com
Subject: Re: RE: Instrument Rebuild Recommendations
TIGERS@alpine.b17a.ingr.com, BRITISH-CARS@autox.team.net
> To take off the needle, I learned the hard way by damaging one of the
I've had great success by just grabbing hold of that sucker (the needle)
and pulling straight out, no need to reach in the light hole.
Also, the stop at 0Mph is really a spring, so you don't have to be too
carefull. To get the correct reading when putting the needle back,
I put the needle on pointing to a small white dot you will find just
below 0, around -10Mph as I recall... now push straight in the stop
with a small knife blade while you push the needle past. This pre-load
won't hurt the spring and gives pretty accurate readings. To get better
readings, I have left the glass off, driven a known speed (by the tach)
and re-installed the needle at that speed...
Also, that end-float adjustment is the solution to alot of problems,
it is critical! I stick a small screwdriver in the cable hole and
while rapidly spinning it, you get a feel for how the needle operation
is.. you need to put the needle on, but only lightly to do this. It
has been suggested the kerosene is a good lube for the bearings.. I
know SAE30 is not!, I used WD-40 last time.
I never disassemble the trip counter shaft, there is a small roll-pin
that attaches the black plastic shaft, remove it and the shaft and you
can just get the instrument out of the case before disassembly, then
it just un-screws.
I also never bend the chrome ring, just hang on and twist.
Be sure to repaint the needle and clean the glass and it will be like
new!
Gary Winblad '64 Tiger '66 SV Alger
San Jose
ï Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 875734559.73726-1 ; Wed, 01 Oct 1997 19:35:59 +0000
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 09:38:46 -1000
From: dan evans <fallon@sprynet.com>
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: radio ho'
Jerome Yuzyk wrote:
>
> dan evans <fallon@sprynet.com> wrote:
> > Dude, i've 3 alpines in my time. all american imports, one s1, two
> > s5, all with ho's on the right...
> > could be it depends on the intended market, with unobstructed view
> > for the driver foremost concern........r vs l hand drive...
> > check the # on yer car. could it be a canuck import?
>
> It is, though we drive on the right like you guys.
>
> > My last alpine I smoothed the ho with metal, painted the car..
> > when it came time to install tunes, I installed an amplified antenna.
> > no can see um.....
> > "cd's is the way to go anyway"
>
> I'm going to fill it and go with CD and an amplified antenna. What have
> you done to mount your CD? I was going to make an under-dash console and
> hide the deck behind a flip-down ventilation screen or a faceplate from
> an eight-track player ('cause I like the glove-box).
>
> --
>
> .-~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.- J e r o m e Y u z y k -~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.
> BRIDGE Scientific Services | jerome@supernet.ab.ca
> Edmonton, Alberta Canada | http://www.tgx.com/bridge
> Sunbeam Alpine Series II #9118636
Jerome, Howzit?
my car stereo consists of sony cd head unit,kenwood 4 ch 100w amp,
5 1/4 component set for the front channel(tweeters mounted on both sides
of the dash, the 5 1/4 speakers I placed in the kick panels) 5 1/4
kickers for the rear (mounted in the doors) the amp has features to
change freqences to each channel, so an eq is'nt needed. it also has
a low pass output to a 50 watt amp i've bridged into a 10 inch sub
tube. my car has a new gm alt, and a diehard heat handeler batt.
the cd player is simply mounted on the transmisson hump as far foreward
as the heater and vent drains will allow. used two metal straps to
secure it, sprayed the shiny surfaces flat black. from outside the car
one has to look hard to see it. blends in real well.
the component set I mounted the tweeters in the space between the dash
and the roll pad. "if you sit in the drivers seat and look at the glove
box, you will note the space between the r edge of the box and the roll"
there is a cooresponding space on the drivers side, and the tweets fit
nicely. the 5 1/4 speakers i placed in the "boxes" under the kick panels
I ensured no rust, and sprayed rubberized undercoating inside, useing
the cardboard panels as a template, I fashioned mounting boards out of
1//4 in plywood. then I placed insulating material in the boxes to
reduce dead space, the speakers fit nicely, look great. oh yeah I put a
conduction port under the speaker. mounted the whole deal with adhesive
and lots of sheetmetal screws, "dont want any vibration". covered them
with new vinyl, and speaker grills. Its pretty stealth, and looks like
I paid a " professional" a wack a cash to do it.
the rear channel I mounted in the space between the door handle and the
window crank. If you remove the door panel you'll see a curved space
there. with a little trimming a 5 1/4 speaker fits nicely, depth is not
a problem. be sure to use a baffel to shroud the speaker in the door.
this prevents it from getting wet. you can get them from cructhfeilds.
the speakers need a spacer to keep the panel from touching it.
I simply cut the panel "carefully" to provide opening for the speaker
then I used a 1/8 hole punch to make the "grill" in the vinyl.
again looks great, and is pretty stealth. oh, I had placed pieces of
wood between the vinyl and panel to provide the clearance to cut the
speaker holes. with the outline drawn "carefully" drilled small holes
along the line, I then used a sharp hook knife to cut out remaining
material. the amps I placed on each side of the trunk, 4 ch on the left,
2 ch on the right. watch the clearances of the trunk swing arm supports.
I went with kenwood amps "kac series" they are silver and look great in
the black trunk. in the bottom of the trunk I placed 1/4 rubber mat
under the carpet, the tube sets in a custom made mount to secure it.
the space the trunk provides is a fantastic resonant chamber.
the way I've installed my system I have great sound, my audiophile
friends are impressed, and it makes little impact on the look of the
interior of the car.
i enjoy installing sound systems, and do it for friends when I can.
just go slow, check fits, solder all connections, and most of all
ensure that the cars electrical system will support it..
laters... dan...................
' Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 1995 10:21:41 +1000
To: ALPINES@autox.team.net
From: anthonyr@aqua.civag.unimelb.EDU.AU (Anthony Robinson)
Subject: re:radios
Jay,
I have a radio in my Alpine, fitted invisibly into the centre glove box. If
you can afford to forgo the storage space, then wack a small car radio in
there, wire up a lead from the ignition and an earth. Get yourself some
self-contained shelf speakers for the occasional seat and you are away. You
can also get antennas which fit to the windscreen surround so you don't have
to drill any holes in the body work, or you can get ones which you can
laminate onto the windscreen itself.
You will need to drill some tiny holes in the bottom of the glove box but if
you go through the corners no one will ever know and it will keep all the
wiring invisible too.
Anthony
Alpine II
Australia.
============================================================================
"Yeah yeah'" Greg Matthews, balding ex Australian Test Cricketer.
============================================================================
¸ Received: from ciao-intranet ([129.135.4.2]) by alpine.iss.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@unit.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, Sergio Dimarmo <wanderer@sure.net>
Subject: RE: Tach corrections
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 08:46:00 -0700
From: Sergio Dimarmo
>I just installed EI on my car and want to make sure my tach is correct.
>I'm planning to change the parts mentioned by Jarrid on one of his
>posts. I have a Sears tach/dwell/volt meter but I'm not sure how
>accurate it is. Would it be possible to caluclate the pulse generated
by
>the coil and using an oscilloscope, calibrate the tach?
Using a scope, put the scope on an input mode that will allow 300v DC.
Connect the common on the scope to ground, and take the scope input
to the - lead on the coil.
Never touch the coil- lead, it will shock you something fierce.
When the points close "or transistor" the scope will show close to
0v, but when the points open, the scope will show a brief peak to
about +200v, then decay to +14v.
Trigger on greater than +20v on the rising edge, and set the time base
to 5ms per division.
Set the idle until the rising edges are 30.0ms apart. "Ign_Interval"
This will be 33.3hz, and correlates to exactly 1000RPM."Ign_Freq"
Set the adjustment on the back of the tack to match this rate.
For verifying higher RPMs.
Ign_freq = RPM / 30 "Only for 4 cyl"
Ign_interval = 1/Ign_freq.
Jarrid Gross
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Date: 12 Sep 95 13:33:59 EDT
From: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
To: <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Tach Fix
I understand that the Sunbeam Tiger/Alpine tach has an adjustment
inside. It is a little knob with a phillips head for adjustmemt. It can
be reached two ways. First, you can pull out the light bulb holder and
get it with a finger (so I've been told). Or, you can disassemble the
tach, drill a hole to line up with the phillips head and then reassemble
and install it. Personally, I am going to attempt to get it with my
finger first -- that is, after I hook up another tach along side for a
while to get a feel for where it should be. A tach is not linear. So,
you probably have to decide where you want it to be off, i.e., at low rpm
or high rpm.
Jay Laifman.
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From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@unit.com>
To: "Richard Atherton (Entex)" <a-richat@MICROSOFT.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Tach Problems..??
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 08:08:00 -0700
Richard wrote,
> My question is: Has anyone taken the stock tach and
>removed all of the guts leaving (basically) the shell and the face
>plate, and then added an aftermarket tach with basically the same RPM
>sweep range, an no one is the wiser as far as operations goes?
>
>Rich
The answer is yes, and it is really simple too.
I used a microprocessor for extra accuracy, but that is overkill.
The same could be accomplished with the following parts.
7805 5v regulator.
74HC123 retriggerable multivibrator IC.
Polypopylene capacitor "for temp stability and accuracy"
a couple of resitors and a scaling potentiometer and another
lower grade "ceramic or mylar" cap.
total parts cost under $5.
The major contributor to accuracy here is the variation in the
output voltage of the 7805 as a function of temperature.
This can be elliminated with some clever design though.
The multivibartor puts out a fixed time pulse into a low pass filter.
as the revs increase, the amount of time the pulse is high relative
to the pulse being low decreases.
What you get is the a traditional "Tach" circuit, that does not
suffer the normal maladies that our Smiths tack have.
Jarrid Gross
8 Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 905873769.170342-1 ; Tue, 15 Sep 1998 15:36:09 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, Stalterian@aol.com
Subject: RE: Tach, speedo, Overdrive
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 08:26:00 -0700
----------
From: Stalterian@aol.com
>So, here are my questions:
>Any ideas about why and how to fix the indifferent tach?
>Does everyone's speedometer register such imprecise speeds?
>Is it impossible to find a reasonable OD tranny (and is it difficult to
>install?)?
The tach is pretty straight foreward to fix with a schematic in hand.
Sometimes the addition of electronic ignition causes the smiths tach
to function intermitantly, this is usually fixed by double winding the
coil + feed around the inductive trigger on the backside of the tach.
see
http://www.corpdemo.com/tiger/techtips/motach.html
The Author,
Mark Olson
1-408-765-4490
Should be able to assist if this can not be straightened out.
The problem with the speedo is usually attibuted to a worn
jewel in the speedo drive coupling. This is a piece of saphire
used as a bearing in the piece that connects to your speedo
cable.
It is normal for these to wear, and a provision was provided
The adjustment inside the speedo unit, and tweaks the tension
on a thrust plate, which takes up the slop in that bearing.
I seem to remember that the front plate has to be removed
to gain access to the adjustment screw, so the speedo
will have to be removed and carefully dissassembled.
The adjustment is pretty touchy, and is correct when the slop
has been removed with very little tension on the spindle.
The speedo needle should not stick when the needle is
moved manually to 5mph or so.
Final testing can be performed with a drill motor, and
a square cut bit which will couple the drills rotation to
the speedo.
If it doesnt jump arround, chances are it will work in the car
when you put it all back together.
I have rebuilt 2 speedos with the same symptoms, both
successfully.
Hope this helps,
Jarrid Gross
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 904310504.50428-1 ; Fri, 28 Aug 1998 13:21:44 +0000
From: nyclewit@nyhp03.serigate.philips.com
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 09:24:47 +0200
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: tacho
Subject: tacho
Hi Guys,
Someone was asking about tacho repair ?
Well here is how I've repaired mine (which was un stable and reading way
too much):
Get the tacho off the car and open it up by twisting the housing.
Then have a look at the capacitors, remove the big black one if it is
cracked for a new one of the same value.
Then remove the PTC resistor and the parrallel resistor for a slightly
bigger one.
(The PTC is a little disk shaped one, standing uprighton the printed
circuit board)
Then drill a hole in the back of the housing where the adjustment is
(potmeter)
Then built it into the dash again, connect a timing light with rev
counter
or separate rev counter to your ignition.
Start the Alp and if you put the dial of the revcounter in front of the
screen
you can with a small scewdriver adjust the potmeter while revving the
engine at
100 rpm and 2000 rpm and voila ready !
There are several different tacho's (see chassis no) which have
different internal
components,it's important that the affected ones be exchanged by similar
ones
(See also the Alpines Clubs technical book/Haynes manual)
Hope this helps
--
Bert Clewits
The Netherlands
/""""" E-mail : Bert.Clewits@nym.sc.philips.com
| (.).)
C _) \_///
\ _| \ _/
\__/___/ /
<___Y> \_/
/ \ #\__\
Let's make Alpines better
#
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in4.ibm.net id 888470800.74012-1 ; Thu, 26 Feb 1998 05:26:40 +0000
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 16:26:17 +1100
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: Agent 86 <anthonyr@aqua.civag.unimelb.EDU.AU>
Subject: Temp. calibration
Paul,
when I rigged up my temp guage it was apparent that there is built in
adjustment. You can loosen a nut on the back of the guage and then tilt the
internals by moving the bolt within its slot. It is slotted so I figure
movement was appropriate. I can't remember exactly which one it is, but
with the guage out you should be able to tell.
This movement adjusts the reading up or down. The thing which suprised me
was that it went up when I thought it would go down, but I'm not really big
on the way magnetic fields work anyway.
Mine read really low, and after the adjustment nows reads slightly high, it
would be possible to get a thermometer and adjust it to be "perfect". You
need to remove the guage from the car and perform the operation in the
engine bay from my experience. Just be careful with shorting the wires.
Also, make sure there are three wires going to the back of the guage:
earth, power and sender unit.
hope this helps,
Anthony, series II.
> Is there a way to adjust the output
>from the gauge. I just put in a three core radiator and had a
>thermowell brazed into the bottom of the radiator just below the bottom
>hose connection. The lowest temp. switch that I could find makes at 198
>F. This switches a pusher fan. I think I will try to run the car with
>a 10 psig cap around 210-220. I would like to adjust the gauge to go
>into the red at 220. Is this possible?? How??
>
>Happy Mardi Gras to all
>Paul Gilbert in New Orleans
>
>
>
ü Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in5.ibm.net id 914349166.118906-1 ; Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:52:46 +0000
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 13:51:03 -0400
To: Chris.S.Mottram@ecc.com
From: Bob Hamilton <hamilton@cast.navnet.net>
Subject: Re: Color coded wire
Chris,
I highly recomment British Wiring, 20449 Ithaca, Olympia Fields, IL,
60461, Tel/Fax 708-481-9050. They supplied me with a complete wiring
harness for the 1953 Alpine which was correct to the type of wire as well
as being color coded correctly to the original schematic. You can't ask for
more than that.
Later,
Bob
At 10:56 AM 12/22/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Is there a place to get color coded wire to match the Sunbeam? Mine have
>yellow "hardware store" type wire spliced in and I would like to return it
>to original. More for schematics tracing purposes than anything else.
>
>Chris
>
>
=========================================================
Robert (Bob) A.C. Hamilton, Waverley, Nova Scotia, Canada
The Man of Many Sunbeams - Alpine, Drophead and Saloon 1953-1954
Home Page: http://www.navnet.net/~hamilton/index.html - REVISED!!!
E-Mail: hamilton@navnet.net
=========================================================
[ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 918168262.133346-1 ; Thu, 04 Feb 1999 22:44:22 +0000
Thu, 4 Feb 1999 14:06:43 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 16:05:28 -0500
From: John Slade <edalsj@igs.net>
Organization: Island View Associates
To: Alpine List <alpines@autox.team.net>
Kevin Meek <kevnmeek@netcom.com>
Subject: Alpine/Tiger Blower Motors
I believe all the blower motors in Series Alpines and Tigers were
similar, i.e single speed motors with two wires to be hooked up, one to
ground, the other to the ON/OFF switch. In the earlier cars, the ON/OFF
switch was fitted as a push/pull arrangement on the end of the air flow
control lever (I've never seen one which wasn't broken). Later cars had
a toggle switch mounted in the far left hand dash hole under the ammeter
hole. Some cars had a little tag mounted under the toggle switch which
said BLOWER.
These motors are very amenable to being converted to two speeds, and my
S III had a two speed blower which I found very useful. You need to get
a three position toggle switch (Lucas 34281D...same switch as is used to
operate the two speed wipers) instead of the normal two position
switch. One additional item is required to make this work....a 1.2 Ohm
(that's one point two), 30 Watt wire wound resistor, which is typically
about 2 to 3 inches long and 1/2" in diameter. The principal involved is
that the 12 volts (from the fuse panel or ignition switch) is connected
to the input position on the switch, and in its off position this is not
connected to any of the other positions. In the intermediate position,
this power is directed to one of the terminals which is connected to the
blower input wire through the wire wound resistor. This results in the
blower running at about half to 2/3 speed. In the full position, the
power is directed to a third terminal which is directly connected to the
blower, as in the original installation.
Note that when the resistor is working, i.e. the switch is in the
intermediate position, it (the resistor) gets quite warm (that's why it
needs to be a wire wound resistor) due to the amount of power it is
dissipating. As such, when installed under the dash between the switch
and the blower, it needs to be positioned where other wires are not in
contact with it. Wire wound resistors generally come with mounting lugs
at each end which are not connected to the electrical part of the
resistor, so I found mounting the resistor in a clear location was not a
great problem.
On the Lucas three position switch, the terminals are marked with
numbers on the back. The power-in wire should be connected to terminal
1. To minimize the amount of wire required, I suggest you hook up the
output from the switch as follows. Connect a wire from terminal 8 to one
side of the resistor...make sure you connect to the resistor terminals
and not the mounting lugs. From that same terminal on the resistor,
connect a second wire to the power input wire on the blower. Connect a
wire from terminal 4 on the switch to the other terminal on the
resistor. Your wiring is now complete, and the blower should operate at
two speeds.
A few points.
Lucas switches, particularly 30+ year old ones, have a habit of running
out of smoke. If your installation fails to work as I have suggested,
and you are sure you have connected it up properly, you might just try
another switch. The advantage of using Lucas switches is that they are
the same switches as on the rest of the dash.
18 gauge wire should be adequate for this installation, but I generally
use 16 gauge (or larger) for all my automotive work, just to be on the
safe side. I also installed an in-line 20A fuse in the wire feeding the
input terminal of the switch.
If your wipers don't operate at two speeds, it's probably a switch
problem, although after so many years the grease in the wiper drive
system is probably stiff as molasses, and perhaps the motor can't drive
this mess at the slow speed.
Hope this is helpful.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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Internet Mail Server 2.2); Wed, 3 Feb 1999 20:26:40 +0000
From: Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu (Christopher Albers)
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 19:26:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Rootes
Organization: Biola University
jerome@supernet.ab.ca writes:
>I'm hoping I get a stereo in by then too. But with so little trunk space
>I don't know how I'm going to carry much. How are you planning to mount
>things (deck, amp, speakers)?
I have a stock Sunbeam (Motorola) AM radio that I am planning on
mounting in the stock location. I intend to mount an AM/FM receiver
and multidisc CD player remotely. Sony sells a head unit (any ES
receiver) that can be controlled with a wired remote. It will control
both the head unit and the CD player. I'm going to hide the remote in
the console.
Believe it or not, there is enough room to mount both units behind the
foot well panel (against firewall) on the passenger side. There is a
surprising amount of room there but the CD player must be one of the
smaller CD changers. I'll just hinge the panel and mount a latch or
magnet for easy access. The units will mount directly to the panel. I
will mount an amplifier under the passenger seat. I think there is
just enough room. If not, I'm sure I can find a place that is
unobtrustive.
I will mount speakers in the kick panels in front of each door (6x9).
I'm going to put 2 more 6x9's in boxes in the back seat, that way I can
remove them when the car is parked and not alter the original
appearance (or give potential theives something to see). I've seen an
Alpine with 6x9's mounted in the back panel below the soft top well
without interference, but I do not want to permanently alter the car.
I will put a sub woofer either in the trunk or directly under the stock
radio, hidden and out of sight.
I suggest you check out Crutchfield's catalog (800-955-3000). They
list all of the units I intend to use. I plan on using the Sony ES
XR-C9100 AM/FM Cass. player and the CDX805 10 disc changer (not sure
about fit yet). The amp may be an MTX Thunder 5400, it's 2" tall,
which is just barely enough to fit under the seat; but I don't think
the seat can be moved forward or backward if I put it there. I'm not
sure whether or not their prices are the best, but the technical info
in the catalog is invaluable; they list dimensions for everything. The
downside is that what I want to do is going to cost over $2000.
Chances are I won't be able to do this before SUNI.
Christopher
Ï
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Sun, 14 Feb 1999 11:09:09 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 10:09:49 -0800
From: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>
To: TIGEROOTES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Clocks
Clock Polarity,
While Jim Leach's note on clock voltage polarity nicely
describes a 'normal' electric clock, there are two
exceptions that I am aware of.
First, of course is the clock that has had a quartz movement
installed. This is polarity sensitive, and is usually
negative earth. It can be used in a positive earth car by
isolating the case (which is usually 'grounded') and putting
it to the positive terminal and the "hot lead" to ground.
Easy enough on a wood dashboard, but not so easy on a metal
one.
The more important difference, to a Sunbeam, are the models
of Smiths clocks made with an auxiliary floating battery
inside. These are meant to be negative ground, so shouldn't
be a problem with a Tiger, but some Alpines were positive
ground. When I tried to have this one rebuilt, by one of
the national instrument experts, I was told not to bother.
The mechanism of the battery model is not reliable, not
original, and a POS. BUT, you can put a nice VDO movement
(the larger one) inside, and keep your old face (new holes
required for face, but no biggy), keep the VDO face, or have
a decal of the "correct" face put on. It will keep good
time, too, as opposed to a new or re-built Smiths.
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/_/_/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/_/_/_/__/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/
_/_/_/
y Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in2.ibm.net id 919091718.107878-1 ; Mon, 15 Feb 1999 15:15:18 +0000
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 10:15:36 -0500
From: John Slade <edalsj@igs.net>
Organization: Island View Associates
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: harness wrapping etc.
Hi Jerome,
A few clarifications:
The tape I use is NOT sticky, it is dry both sides. It has no brand name
or identification, so that won't help. It is very slightly heavier than
the material that we used to use for electricians tape before it became
plastic, and closely resembles the backing material for zippers, with a
herring bone appearance to the weave. I got mine from the canvas place,
but I think you could also get it from most (women's) tailoring shops as
well. I have attached a digital photo of the roll, and a close up of the
tape itself (a bit over-exposed so that the pattern would show better).
It is 1" wide.
If I re-wrap a harness, I remove the harness from the car first. That
way I can clean it up, inspect existing wires, add the necessary extra
wires, and I don't have a problem worrying about firewall holes.
On the subject of the signal light switch, I don't have a positive
answer. However, there were several design variations of this switch.
What you describe sounds like the method of ensuring that the lever
stays in the up or down position when the left or right signal is
selected. Without some sort of pressure, the lever in the up position
will just drop back to off.
I think that most of the options you are providing for were originally
catered to by Sunbeam by using separate mini harnesses...i.e. every car
got the same basic harness. Certainly in later cars with two speed
blowers, the switch was moved to the far left hole beside the wiper
switch, and a nice little two wire mini harness was used to connect it
to the blower assembly. I believe the overdrive wiring was added in a
similar fashion. This doesn't mean that you cannot incorporate these
wires into your harness if you have it open....I would...it results in a
much neater arrangement, however you have to figure out exactly what you
need and where it must enter and exit the harness. By the way, whenever
I am adding a new wire to the harness, I always add two or three extra
inches to the length of the tails....it is amazing how often you didn't
quite get the location right. I don't put the new connectors on to the
wires until I have the harness more or less taped up and I have verified
that everything is correct.
I can't help on the intended factory location of the various switches
mounted switch, nor with factory installed driving/fog lights. I think
where you install them is pretty much up to you. The dash is amenable to
being modified to add extra switch locations between the existing
switches etc, and my Tiger had a row of six switches across the centre
of the dash when I got it, including in the hole the Alpines use for a
choke cable which is not needed in Tigers with auto choke. Whatever
suits you and looks good, but make sure you use switches that look the
same, otherwise it looks like hell.
Hope this helps, and keep up the good work
John Slade
Manotick, ON
A Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 919117338.108384-1 ; Mon, 15 Feb 1999 22:22:18 +0000
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 17:23:40 -0500
From: John Slade <edalsj@igs.net>
Organization: Island View Associates
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: harness wrapping etc.
Hi again,
Re: grommets
What I often do in cases like this is to cut the grommet from outside to
inside as close to tangential to the inner circle as possible. When
reinstalled, it stays in almost as well as the original, and works just
as well. This is how I install grommets on things that are already
installed. Works like a charm
Cheers
John S
( Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 918751414.142988-1 ; Thu, 11 Feb 1999 16:43:34 +0000
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 11:43:36 -0500
From: John Slade <edalsj@igs.net>
Organization: Island View Associates
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: harness wrapping
Hi again Jerome,
I get your point, and fully agree. The last harness I did from scratch
was for a 1936 Packard touring coupe. The original had all cotton
covered wires, the coverings of which had mostly disintegrated, so the
harness needed completely re-fabricating. That is the job where the old
Jag harness from the wrecker came in very useful...lots of lengthy,
fairly large gauge wires, necessary for a 6 volt wiring harness. Anyway,
the whole lot was originally covered by what you might call a woven
stocking...brown with yellow flecks in it....which was also
disintegrating.
After laying out all the new wires, using the original as a pattern, I
used a little binding twine at the ends and at the various bundle
locations to correctly position the wires. I then wrapped the whole lot
with one inch wide binding tape which I purchased at the local canvas
goods fabricating shop. It's a black, woven cloth type tape (either
cotton or synthetic material) just like the backing for zippers. I
overlapped each turn 50%, so effectively one wrap covered half an inch
of harness length. As I mentioned in my last e-mail, you wrap the
bundles first, starting at their extremities, then wrap the main
section. The only tricky parts are keeping the tape nice and tight as
you wrap, and in securing the final wrap at the end of the main harness
so that it doesn't want to unwrap as soon as the tension is removed.
The tape that I bought for this job came on a roll about 8 or 9 inches
in diameter, and there is enough on this roll for another half dozen
harnesses at least! I couldn't get any smaller quantity. Anyway, the
result is a very neat, black, non sticky harness cover which has
considerable tolerance for being bent around corners without the wires
showing, and looks, short of close up inspection, just like an original
harness.
Just my thoughts
John Slade
y Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in2.ibm.net id 919091718.107878-1 ; Mon, 15 Feb 1999 15:15:18 +0000
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 10:15:36 -0500
From: John Slade <edalsj@igs.net>
Organization: Island View Associates
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: harness wrapping etc.
Hi Jerome,
A few clarifications:
The tape I use is NOT sticky, it is dry both sides. It has no brand name
or identification, so that won't help. It is very slightly heavier than
the material that we used to use for electricians tape before it became
plastic, and closely resembles the backing material for zippers, with a
herring bone appearance to the weave. I got mine from the canvas place,
but I think you could also get it from most (women's) tailoring shops as
well. I have attached a digital photo of the roll, and a close up of the
tape itself (a bit over-exposed so that the pattern would show better).
It is 1" wide.
If I re-wrap a harness, I remove the harness from the car first. That
way I can clean it up, inspect existing wires, add the necessary extra
wires, and I don't have a problem worrying about firewall holes.
On the subject of the signal light switch, I don't have a positive
answer. However, there were several design variations of this switch.
What you describe sounds like the method of ensuring that the lever
stays in the up or down position when the left or right signal is
selected. Without some sort of pressure, the lever in the up position
will just drop back to off.
I think that most of the options you are providing for were originally
catered to by Sunbeam by using separate mini harnesses...i.e. every car
got the same basic harness. Certainly in later cars with two speed
blowers, the switch was moved to the far left hole beside the wiper
switch, and a nice little two wire mini harness was used to connect it
to the blower assembly. I believe the overdrive wiring was added in a
similar fashion. This doesn't mean that you cannot incorporate these
wires into your harness if you have it open....I would...it results in a
much neater arrangement, however you have to figure out exactly what you
need and where it must enter and exit the harness. By the way, whenever
I am adding a new wire to the harness, I always add two or three extra
inches to the length of the tails....it is amazing how often you didn't
quite get the location right. I don't put the new connectors on to the
wires until I have the harness more or less taped up and I have verified
that everything is correct.
I can't help on the intended factory location of the various switches
mounted switch, nor with factory installed driving/fog lights. I think
where you install them is pretty much up to you. The dash is amenable to
being modified to add extra switch locations between the existing
switches etc, and my Tiger had a row of six switches across the centre
of the dash when I got it, including in the hole the Alpines use for a
choke cable which is not needed in Tigers with auto choke. Whatever
suits you and looks good, but make sure you use switches that look the
same, otherwise it looks like hell.
Hope this helps, and keep up the good work
John Slade
Manotick, ON
í Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in2.ibm.net id 919480433.143106-1 ; Sat, 20 Feb 1999 03:13:53 +0000
Fri, 19 Feb 1999 20:12:08 -0700 (MST)
From: mbgardner <mbgardner@freewwweb.com>
To: "'alpines@autox.team.net'" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 10:59:40 -0500
Re: fuel pump switch
I located my shut off switch inside the center console. At the forward end
the floor of the console goes up on a 45 degree angle allowing room for a
switch on the angled part of the floor but hidden by the outside of the
console.
$ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 919496152.114264-1 ; Sat, 20 Feb 1999 07:35:52 +0000
Sat, 20 Feb 1999 00:30:11 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 23:31:15 -0800
From: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>,
"'Alpine's Peak'" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Long and Pointy!
'Beamer's,
This is somewhat long, and may not be of interest to non
technical or non historically interested individuals, but it
does have an ending 'point', IMHO, suitable for today's
decisions. Stop here, if you want. This is for the street
driver who wants more reliability and performance, less
maintenance, and low buck solutions.
With all the discussion about points on the list, both SU
fuel pump points and hot ignitions, I thought I'd relate a
question I recently had, and the answer I provided. Since
this can equally apply to Alpines, I've included that list
in the distribution.
A friend asked about upgrading his ignition system. He was
considering his regular single point distributor, dual point
distributors, high performance distributors, electronic
substitutions for points, hot coils, and high energy
ignition systems, like capacitive discharge and the like.
There were just too many pitches, and not enough facts. I
thought I'd share my answer to those with a similar
uncertainty, for what it's worth.
Reluctantly {9->, I gave him some information on the
experiences I've had, and my recommendations.
BASICS
1) Points are closed to charge the primary side of a dual
winding coil, setting up a magnetic field.
2) The secondary windings, which have many more turns, hence
act as a transformer and greatly multiply the voltage when
the magnetic field changes.
3) When the points are opened, the magnetic field collapses,
and the secondaries release the higher voltage, usually
1,000 times the primary voltage.
4) This creates the spark when it jumps the plug gap to
ground.
5) The current being switched in the primary is very high,
and points arc when the circuit is broken. A capacitor is
placed between the points and ground to bleed off some of
this energy to reduce the arcing of the points.
6) As the points arc, the alloy material of the contacts
erode, changing the gap, the "dwell", and the timing. After
a while they just don't make contact at all, and the engine
stops.
OK that's the "primary" information. (pun)
HISTORY
The first "improvement" was the introduction of dual point
ignition systems. Each point took half the load, and wore
half as fast, so you replaced two at twice the mileage.
That's OK, they were cheap, and the labor for two isn't much
different than for one. Keeping them in "sync" was a small
problem.
Electronic ignition systems were developed when
semi-conductors could almost handle that current about
1960's. The first ones used a transistor to replace the
points as a contact switch. They didn't work very well, or
at least for very long. Semiconductor technology wasn't up
to it yet. I believe these were the first silicone power
switching transistors.
Couple of years later the first Capacitive Discharge systems
were released. The points charged a very large capacitor,
which held the energy until the points opened, and then
discharged itself into the coil at a very rapid rate. This
very high rate of field change enhanced the coils output
significantly (factor of 2 to 5), and simultaneously reduced
the current being switched by the points to practically
nothing.
This is where Delta Electronics Mk I (Denver) and I meet.
My new '66 911S couldn't go for 1,000 miles on a very
expensive set of Bosch plugs before they were fouling out. I
added this magic box from Denver, and some inexpensive, but
very good NGK plugs from Japan (just introduced to US) that
had a copper electrode center that could automatically
adjusted a broad 'heat range'. Wonderful. Could now go
5,000 to 7,000 miles on a set of plugs. Unfortunately the
first Delta's didn't go much further than 2 sets of plugs.
But Delta stood behind their product and the Mk II's came to
me free. Even had a switch on the box, in case it failed,
to return the circuit to points operation. It didn't fail.
Sold it 10 years later, still working.
THE FROG IN THE MARTINI:
Here's the kicker. Now that the point spark erosion was
eliminated, point adjustment and replacement were a thing of
the past, right? Wrong! The ignition designers were very
clever. In order to keep the gap as constant as possible,
they designed the material of the rubbing block (the plastic
part of the points that rode the distributor cam) to wear as
fast as the points wore (leverage arm accounted for). The
points were no longer wearing, but the rubbing block was,
requiring gap adjustment, anyway. At less frequent
intervals, though.
CURRENT TECHNOLOGY
Now, here is the relevant information to today's choices.
Capacitive discharge ignition systems are even better now
than they ever were, and more reliable. Some even have
automatic rev limiters that 'roll-off' your revs when you
reach the limit you choose by module, or knob, Won't help
on a missed downshift, though. Now you can just use points,
except the blocks wear.
But single point, dual point, electronic point distributor
which one?
Since the current across the points was now insignificant,
splitting it two to sets of points was more trouble in
synchronization, and no benefit. Forget them, unless you
just want the mechanical advance only feature. I would
forgo mechanical only as well, unless your just racing at
WOT. The single diaphragm pre smog models gave really great
mileage saving at light loads and high advance, without
penalty if you step on it.
Bottom line. If your going to mess with the ignition, one
of the easiest ways is to replace the current points system
in your own distributor, with the newer optical or magnetic
effect points now available such as Unilite, or my favorite,
Pertronics. This gives you a much sharper opening, and
field collapse, can take a hotter coil, and never needs
adjusting. Spark voltage 50% more with stock coil, and can
be doubled with a "hot" coil This is the simplest and
cheapest way out , about 15 to 17,000 volts depending on
coil (about $65 - $85). If you want a "hotter" coil you must
use "Points Type" hot coil to limit current to the
electronic points. Probably need the resistor that comes
with them, instead of the stock one. Can tell with an ohm
meter and the directions that come with the points. Be
safe, if you don't measure the resistance, use the new
resistor. They still have limits, although much higher now,
and no 'point float'.
Want 50,000 volts or more? The Mallory M6-AL high energy,
rev limited system, coupled to these new triggers will fry
your hair and make the underside of your hood glow blue at
night. This is the big buck solution. Well worth it for
racing applications. Say $165. BTW: Your going to need
those high priced silicone wires now. Give up another $65.
Dual point distributors? Pull both points and put in the
Pertronix. Same for single point systems, like the stock
Tiger or Alpine. But you'd be stuck with the single advance
mechanism. Not a real advantage on the street.
Recurve your distributor to start ramping up just after
idle, and be full-in mechanically at about 1800 to 2300
rpm. Don't exceed top advance, mechanical plus static
(idle). For Fords, about 34 degrees (arguable). The vacuum
advancers can go way beyond that, because they only do it on
light loads. This change alone, for the cost of $5 worth of
springs, is the single, most cost-effective change you can
make, even if you do nothing else. If you can find someone
with an old distributor machine, it may cost you $65,
including a re-built distributor.
Well, that's the long and short of it. My experience and
considered advice. I am certain to hear other views, but I
am equally certain they will have unique uses for their
vehicles than daily driving. Hope it helps allocate your
bucks.
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/_/_/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/_/_/_/__/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/
_/_/_/
ä Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 919989072.99828-1 ; Fri, 26 Feb 1999 00:31:12 +0000
Thu, 25 Feb 1999 17:34:59 -0700 (MST)
From: TIGEROOTES@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 19:30:04 EST
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: toggle switch plastic
Jerome,
The Lucas dash toggle switches were black. If you have a dead switch with a
good paddle, it can be removed and installed on the good switch with the bad
paddle, but the trick is not scarring it in the process: I found if you bring
water nearly to a boil and insert only the handle in the water, the plastic
will expand and the handle will glide right off. You can do the same with any
Lucas switch, and this means when you find the same switch with the wrong
paddle (like for a Jag) at a swap meet for 5 bucks, you simply have to switch
the plastic knob. Be careful not to introduce water inside the switch...and
this includes vapor, so a little tape might be a good idea. I had to change
all of the paddles on my Tiger, because the prior owner had installed all new
Jag type switches. EZ.
Jim Leach, Seattle
s Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 920240958.96582-1 ; Sun, 28 Feb 1999 22:29:18 +0000
Internet Mail Server 2.2); Sun, 28 Feb 1999 14:32:18 -0800
From: Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu (Christopher Albers)
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 13:30:36 -0800
Subject: Re: source for gauge gaskets
Organization: Biola University
Try Nisonger Instruments in New York (914) 381-1952. When they
refurbished mine the sent new gaskets along with them. I'm sure they
can get you whatever you need.
Christopher
à Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 920584616.104676-1 ; Thu, 04 Mar 1999 21:56:56 +0000
Thu, 4 Mar 1999 14:55:01 -0700 (MST)
From: "Ed Esslinger" <eee1@snowhill.com>
To: "alpines@autox.team.net" <alpines@autox.team.net>, <BlueGolfer@aol.com>,
<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for some really good Clear Hooters
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 15:51:30 -0000
charset="iso-8859-1"
Rob= File or grind the rivets flush and punch them out with an 1/8" punch.
Once open clean the contact points, reassemble using a little RTV silicone,
to seal and 8/32 screws and nuts to hold it together. Then hook up to Bat.
and adjust the screw on top. Works every tine.--- Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: BlueGolfer@aol.com <BlueGolfer@aol.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, March 04, 1999 8:10 PM
Subject: Looking for some really good Clear Hooters
>In need of Clear Hooters. The electric kind. What a name!
>
>I have one slightly passable horn on my Tiger and another defunct one. Has
>anyone tried repairing the horn? The case looks riveted together, but that
>never stopped me before.
>
>Rob Kempinski
>Melbourne Fl
» Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 922205896.47344-1 ; Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:18:16 +0000
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:13:12 -0700 (MST)
From: Jarrid Gross <JGross@econolite.com>
To: "'Paul Almjeld'" <palmjeld@hdc.net>,
"'alpines@autox.team.net'"
<alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: hard starting
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 08:12:50 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
Paul wrote,
>Hi all:
>
>I need some advice. After being a very dependable cold weather Alpine
>for many years, this winter my Series V developed a distinct distaste
>for starting. Battery is fine, starter is fine, drawing a "normal"
>load. Pertronix ignition with Weber 32/36 carb. The choke activates
>properly.
>Many years ago I had a problem with the ballast resistor/coil and
>ignition wiring. To make a long story short, it melted the insulation
>from the wiring. I replaced the wiring from the coil to the switch,
>replaced the original coil with a non-resistor coil and have run the car
>that way in summer and in cool weather of early spring and fall (circa
>30 degrees or so) for the past 9 or ten years. Suddenly, this year, it
>has become most difficult about starting. The timing is correct, the
>fuel line between tank/pump and carb is free flowing. I have new plugs,
>a new air filter, new fuel filter, a humongous battery with plenty of
>cranking power.
>
>I notice that while cranking I do not have any movement on the tach.
>Immediately upon moving the switch from the crank to the run position I
>will have a bump on the tach needle.
I have worked with pertonics units.
As I recall, they are not specified to opperate with a ballast-less
system. The problem is that without the ballast resistor, the current
is quite high at low RPMs. As I recall, the pertronics unit has a
built in current protection cicuit that will keep the unit somewhat
protected in the case of a shorted coil. The internal dwell control
circuit is altered off this current level, and the result is a very
weak spark.
Oh, and the coil will also have a lower DC resistance when it is cold,
which will compound this effect.
My advice would be to install a ballast (1 ohm 10/20W) and a normal
type coil (Bosch) makes afew good ones. Then connect the a wire from
the starter relay field terminal to the coil+ connection.
This will give you full powered starts and limit the coil current
otherwise, the pertronics unit will be far happier, and will likely
last a long time. It is not likely to last a long time without the
ballast installed.
Jarrid Gross
› Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 921176336.63672-1 ; Thu, 11 Mar 1999 18:18:56 +0000
Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:14:45 -0700 (MST)
From: Jarrid Gross <JGross@econolite.com>
To: "'Jerome Yuzyk'" <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>,
"'alpines@autox.team.net'"
<alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: horn relay
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 10:15:12 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
Jerome wrote,
>The Sunbeam Specialties catalogue lists a Horn Relay for SI-II. I don't
>have one. My horns are plastic (made by a French company I think), and
>worked. Were the original horns that different?
The horns consume significant current, and the horn switch and wiring
must pass all the current for both horns.
This can burn the contacts in the horn switch, and is generally not a good
thing to do.
I think the horn relay was a factory modification to a marginal
electrical system design.
Some early alpines seam to have it others do not.
Easy to add if you want it.
Jarrid Gross
ÿ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in5.ibm.net id 922720948.362544-1 ; Mon, 29 Mar 1999 15:22:28 +0000
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 08:02:38 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 10:03:01 -0500
From: Tom Hill <tom.hill@worldnet.att.net>
To: Gordon Thompson <Gordon_Thompson@BENG.VOA.GOV>
Subject: Re:
Gordon,
The original alternator was the Lucas 10AC (rebuilt US$152.50). If the
orginal components have been removed, you will need a Lucas 4TR voltage
regulator (US$38.26), the field isolation relay (US$28.61), and a
warning light simulator relay (US$25.78). From my experience, the
Sunbeam alternator is unique. Other manufacturers use the Lucas 10AC
but the Sunbeam has the mount for the adjustment arm in a different
location. The parts I have listed are available from Sunbeam
Specialties in Los Gatos California (408) 371-1642.
Good Luck
Tom Hill
Gordon Thompson wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> Haven't been to the office for some time so I was mildly surprised at
> all of the Alpine traffic. You are a prolific bunch when it comes to
> your Sunbeams.
>
> A couple of people answered my initial posting and recommended I use
> another alternater rather than the original. I agree it was a pain and
> initially replaced it with a Chevy 396 externally regulated
> alternator. It fit the bracket, but was an inch or so behind the
> original. It looked weird as the fanbelt had the bends in it, but the
> thing worked.
>
> I thought since I was in a country that has a lot of British cars one
> or two could be found here. Since the car has such few miles on it,
> it would be nice to keep it original.
>
> I think the original alternator was a Lucas, but I don't have any part
> numbers to work with. Does anyone have a part or model number?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gordon
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 923886053.94528-1 ; Mon, 12 Apr 1999 03:00:53 +0000
Sun, 11 Apr 1999 20:57:19 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Sergio Dimarmo" <iwander@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Alpine Mailing List" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Tach replacement parts
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 19:56:37 -0700
charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi all,
For those of you who are interested, here are the Radio Shack replacement
part numbers for the Smiths electronic tach:
Part Number Description
276-561 6.2v Zener Diode
272-1016 100uF Electrolytic Capacitor
272-1070 .22uF MFD Capacitor
Sergio
1967 Sunbeam Alpine
Series V 'AJNT 86'
still working on it but getting closer!
V Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in2.ibm.net id 933132921.42760-1 ; Wed, 28 Jul 1999 03:35:21 +0000
Tue, 27 Jul 1999 21:34:48 -0600 (MDT)
From: Alpdavegre@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 23:33:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Alpine Temp. Gauge
To: kasl100@navix.net, Alpines@autox.team.net
Brent,
If you want to go to the trouble the way to calibrate the temp gauge can be
done with the gauge loose from the dash board. If you can get the known temp
resistance and install a resistor to ground instead of the sender you will
have a fixed value. Lets say it is 100 Ohms to read 180 degrees F. The temp
gauge has two adjustable poles with fine wire windings these have a magnetic
effect on the needle. You just have to make a slight movement either towards
the center of the gauge or away from the center. This will cause the needle
to move. Just get it where you are certain it will read the temp it is
supposed to. I did this with my gas gauge when I restored Sues S1 to make
sure it was accurate. To do the adjustment turn off ignition power and unhook
the jumper leads that connect the gauge while it is out of the dash. It
worked for me.
Dave Green
8 Alps (soon to have another), 1 Tiger
| Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in1.ibm.net id 934424099.846372-1 ; Thu, 12 Aug 1999 02:14:59 +0000
Wed, 11 Aug 1999 20:14:30 -0600 (MDT)
From: Alpdavegre@aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 22:08:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Battery replacement (designation?) Ser I Brake Line wrench size
To: davidkellogg@hotmail.com, Alpines@autox.team.net
David & all,
The biggest battery you can put into an Alpine is a group 27 this will just
fit in and no need to secure it from sliding sideways. They come in 27 or 27F
Interstate batteries still has them.
I believe the brake line size is 3/8" or 7/16" on some of the fittings.
Dave Green
10 Beams! 9 Alps, 1Tiger.
å Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in2.prserv.net id 941093359.137078-1 ; Thu, 28 Oct 1999 06:49:19 +0000
Thu, 28 Oct 1999 00:49:13 -0600 (MDT)
From: TIGEROOTES@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 02:48:36 EDT
Subject: Re: speedometer OD or not OD?
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Kelly,
There is a different ratio of gears in the different speedometer heads,
and there should be a different driven gear on the mainshaft of your
transmission. One the face of your speedometer, you will find a number
corresponding to the number of turns the cable makes to advance the
speedometer ahead by one mile. It is in very small print and usually near 5
o'clock. A typical number to find would be 1020. I have the specifications
Jim Leach, Seattle
Index Accessories Culture Diagnose Docs Howto Id Models Parts-Alt Performance Rebuild Rebuild-Body Rebuild-Electrical Rebuild-Engine Rebuild-Interior Rebuild-Tranny Rebuild-Underside Shoptools Sources Specs