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A Received: from b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: DonBaby58@aol.com
(1.37.109.11/16.2) id AA257919947; Thu, 13 Jul 1995 14:25:47 -0400
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 14:25:47 -0400
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rough Idling
Russell writes:
> Hello,
>
> I have been having problems recently, with the way that my '65 series V
idles.
> The engine runs rough, not firing on all cylinders, unburnt petrol smell
from
> exhaust. The car runs fine when accelerating or running at over 2000rpm
>
> I replaced all the contact breaker, rotar arm, distributor cap, condensor,
> plugs, plug leads and tried a different coil. None of which seemed to make
a
> difference.
>
> Anyone out there had the same problem / know what else to try / Wild ideas
?
I was having the same problem not too long ago. It's probably an incorrect
fuel/air mixture ratio. It could be just as simple as adjusting the mixture
with the screws at the bottom of the carburetors. But, as in my case, that
wasn't the problem - a complete overhaul of both carbs was needed. And it
wasn't as difficult to accomplish as one might think! (I did it all in about
a weekend.) I ordered a pair of Stromberg 150 rebuild kits (around $20.00
each). In addition to the rebuild kits, I obtained new needles and new
damper assemblies; all for about $50.00. And while I had the carbs off the
car, I replaced as many of the nuts, srews, and springs as I could for the
carb linkage.
I cleaned all the carb parts, put all the new pieces in and on, and returned
the carbs to my car (since I took the carburetor manifold off, I needed to
replace the carburetor/exhaust manifold gasket). I used Colortune (which,
BTW, is manufactured in the UK) to adjust my fuel / air ratio, and the car
has been running great ever since - idling correctly (900 rpm) and running
well at high rpm. I was finally able to pass California smog requirements
and I'm getting about 25 mpg!
NOTE: It's crucial to make sure the air valve pistons move up and down
freely - the needle must centered exactly to jet assembly for this to happen.
I also found that on my carburetors, the suction chamber covers are slighty
askew and that also impeded the air valve pistons from moving freely. I had
to make sure the covers were seated and tightened correctly - to get it
seated right, some of the screws are tighter than others. I used Locktite on
the screws once I found the correct configuration. And lastly, don't
disregard the damper oil! It'll really help the carbs perform better!
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From: tstiffy@pulsenet.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 96 18:44:22 PDT
Subject: RE: Softop Install
To: Paul Rische <prische@mshare.cupertino.k12.ca.us>, alpines@autox.team.net
Paul,
I've also started to install a new soft top on my Series I. When bought the
car last fall, it didn't have a soft top with it, only the frame. I
purchased a new top and windshield frame gasket from Sunbeam Specialties. I
have the top attached in the rear with screws that were still there. When I
got to attaching the front to the front bow, I stopped. The gasket I
received appeared to be made with grooves to fit into a channel.
However,there was no channel with the frame. I could be wrong, but I think
the top material should bend over the bow and be held in place with this
channel. The top of the bow had dry glue residue on it. I ordered the
channel from J.C.Whitney....Yea, I know what your thinking,but the channel
the they sent looks really good. It's polished aluminum and shines like
chrome. The rubber seal fits nicely into it. The only thing I'll probably
have trouble with is bending it to fit the arc of the front bow. I might try
to slot the back side that will be hidden to allow me to bend it. After I
bend it to match, I plan to put a coating of "counter top glue" to the bow
top, and attach the top with no. 6 sheet metal screws through the channel.
After it sets, I'll slid the gasket into the channel and that should be it.
What I don't know is how much I should stretch the top to avoid wrinkles. I
don't know how much the material will relax after it's on for a while. Does
anyone out there on the list know? Does anyone think my method is ok? Please
let me know before I step off that cliff.
Tim Stiffy
Alpine I
---------------Original Message---------------
When starting to lay out the softop material to install on my Series V, I
found that the previous softop material is connected via rivets to the bar
that holds the top to the windshield. I was hoping to find screws. My
thought is now that I have to drill out the rivets and find screws to
replace them. Is this correct? Any specific type/size of screws I should
look for? Should I also use some type of cement/glue? Any other
suggestions?
thanks
----------End of Original Message----------
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(Smail3.1.29.0 #6) id m0rfGMU-0002MeC; Thu, 16 Feb 95 16:15 PST
From: "Frank_Marrone" <montreal!marrone@uunet.uu.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 16:13:02 -0800
"Stromberg tuning" (Feb 16, 6:52pm)
To: TEdlund@aol.com, alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Stromberg tuning
On Feb 16, 6:52pm, TEdlund@aol.com wrote:
> Subject: Stromberg tuning
> Synchronization: What is the best way to synch the carbs for flow? Is there
> some sort of flow meter available?
One way is to use a Uni-syn which is sort of a barometric flow meter. You
place it over each carb inlet and adjust for the same reading on the air column
indicator. Available cheap at most foriegn auto supplies.
>
> Jet Adjustment: What is the procedure to obtain the proper fuel/air mixture?
> How do you insure it is the same for both carbs? Is there some sort of
> "tool" available?
There are those color tune spark plugs. They have a transparent insulator
window so you can actually see the color of the flame in the combustion
chamber. Of course there are exhaust gas sniffers ranging from affordable to
way too expensive.
I use the plug cut method. You go out and find a good secluded staight and
make several WOT passes. At the end of each pass you kill the ignition. You
then pull the plugs and tune by color of the insulator. I'm not sure if this
works well for throttle setting other than wide open and it does nothing for
getting the idle mixture right.
I'd like to hear what methods the others on the list use.
--
Frank Marrone at marrone@optilink.dsccc.com
1965 Sunbeam Tiger B9471116
1960 Sunbeam Alpine Series I B9009330
1966 Ford LTD 4-door family barge.
´ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 17:07:08 +1100
To: ALPINES@autox.team.net
From: anthonyr@aqua.civag.unimelb.EDU.AU (Anthony Robinson)
Subject: RE: Softop Install
You wrote:
I've also started to install a new soft top on my Series I. I plan to put a
coating of "counter top glue" to the bow top, and attach the top with no. 6
sheet metal screws through the channel.
After it sets, I'll slid the gasket into the channel and that should be it.
What I don't know is how much I should stretch the top to avoid wrinkles. I
don't know how much the material will relax after it's on for a while. Does
anyone out there on the list know? Does anyone think my method is ok? Please
let me know before I step off that cliff.
I installed a soft top from SSpec last year, taking time with each step.
People told me to put it on as tight as I could; I did that by hand and got
out all of the wrinkles, I had a heater in the car for a while before
installing it to make sure it was as warm as it would ever be. The result
is that it's too tight! After more than a year including a couple of v. hot
days; the material hasn't given at all, though I wish it would. The glue is
a good idea although in the end I didn't use it. Also I had quite a bit of
spare material at the front which needed to be cut off, I left a bit there
Lastly the gasket seems to go in more easily if you put one edge into the
channel and then poke the other edge using something blunt like a spoon. It
sounds unlikely but this was advice from the bloke I bought it from. I spent
hours trying to slide it in but it wouldn't keep going. Then the other
method had it in, in about 10 minutes
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in7.ibm.net id 875286504.59010-1 ; Fri, 26 Sep 1997 15:08:24 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: Alpine List <alpines@autox.team.net>, jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: RE: Why Gauges Wobble as Car Does
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 08:02:00 -0700
Jerome, and list,
>My (Jaeger) Fuel Gauge, Speedo and Tach wander and jitter as the car
>vibrates. Is there any way to "tighten" these up? I use the mid-point
>of their jitter travel and that seems to be pretty accurate so far (no
>speeding tickets, over-revving or long walks for gas yet).
There is an o-ring around each gauge that serves to dampen
out any vibration on the gauges, but it must be complete, and
present to be functional.
There is a "U" shaped clamp that is screwed on to the
rear od all the gauges, which when tightened,up with
the round nuts, pulls the gauges against the o-rings and facia.
The round nuts also serve to allow a daisy chain of grounding
terminals, so if the nuts are loose, you may experience gauge
errors, and gauge lighting problems.
Thats it!
Jarrid Gross
í Received: from b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
(5.65/182.8); Thu, 14 Sep 1995 16:39:22 -0400
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 16:39:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: "W. Ray Gibbons" <gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Another Alpine Back From the Grave!
> >Also...does anyone have any suggestions of how to get the Alpine scripts
> >back on. I got replacment connectors but it seems too difficult to push the
> >pins on the script back into the v shaped connectors. I broke off one of
> >the pins by trying to force it back in.
>
I don't like the push-on connectors. If the pins on badges or other trim
are around 1/8 inch (I guess if they are any standard size) you can get a
sheet-metal "nut" that spirals onto the pin cutting a shallow thread as
you go. It holds tight, in fact does a better job than the standard
clips, yet is easy to remove. I think the ones I've gotten are called
speed nuts or speedy nuts--something like that. It's the sort of thing
you get to hold the wheels on cheap barbeque pits and such, in miniature.
Ray Gibbons Dept. of Molecular Physiology & Biophysics
Univ. of Vermont College of Medicine, Burlington, VT
gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu (802) 656-8910
e Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: DSand95510@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 13:20:04 -0400
To: NamasteRH@aol.com
Subject: Re: Brake Booster Rebuild
In a message dated 96-04-09 03:14:19 EDT, NamasteRH@aol.com writes:
>I need to rebuild my servo. Fine. The question I need your collective
>advice on is two-fold.
>
>Firstly, SHOULD I rebuild my servo? In December there was a spurt of
>discussion about the best replacement servos, but nada about rebuilding.
So,
>has anyone done it recently (last few years), whose kit did you use, and
were
>you happy with the results? Sunbeam Specialties seems to have the best
price
>for the kits (5 or 7 in.) but their price is SO MUCH LOWER than the
>competition that I am worried about quality. Comments? If the results
>(regardless of the kit used) will be short-lived, I don't want to waste my
>money on a kit. HELP!
>
>
(The following are notes from a Pacific Tiger Club tech session given by
Larry Atkisson a few weeks ago in Seattle. My apologies to Larry in advance
Most servos are rebuildable, though the 5" or 7" can (vacuum cylinder) and/or
air piston leather seal is sometimes too corroded to reuse if its been
sitting too long full of moisture-absorbing brake fluid.
For best results, you'll want to rent a couple of hones to properly clean up
the servo body bore and the inside of the can. (Even if there's no rust, the
can builds up a glaze over time that needs to be removed.) You'll also need
a quality pair of inside-style circlips pliers. Follow the directions
carefully; however; you don't have to make up the illustrated special wire
tool to hold the piston-valve assembly in place while extracting or
installing the retaining circlip. A long, slim screwdriver will do.
Note that the rubber seals are directional. The diagram in the instructions
can be hard to read, so remember the direction of the old seals before
disassembling. Coat the seals and bore with fresh brake fluid when
reassembling.
The most frequent failure after a rebuild is that the vacuum piston 'sticks',
causing the brakes to drag or even lock up on their own. On the Girling
rebuild kits, you can avoid this by cutting down the replacement rubber seal
(that fits under the edge of the leather seal on the air piston) to half its
diameter, or by reusing the original seal if its in decent shape. I'm told
that the latest kits from Sunbeam Specialties address this problem by
supplying a slimmer diameter seal.
The lack of moisture absorbtion by silicon fluid makes it the recommended
choice.
Dick Sanders
Ñ
Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 09:16:34 -0800
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: ritfam@mcn.org (Ritchie Family)
Subject: polishing your valve cover
My wife and I polished our alpines valve cover last night and it came out
real nice. Here's how we did it. We took a trip to the hardware store and
bought some wet and dry sand paper in 100 grit 200 grit and 400 grit. We
also purchased a small wheel arbor that chucked into my drill. And 3 or 4
small cotton buffs about 4 inch or smaller. Any bigger and they won't fit
into tight places such as corners or around the edges. I also purchased
DICO BUFFING TRIPOLI , It comes in a little paper tube.
First I removed the oil filler neck and cap. Then I cleaned the cover
inside and out with mineral spirits.
There was a few rough spots in the casting that I took down with a fine
file. Do this very carefully, the aluminum is very soft. Next I wet
sanded the entire surface with the course grit paper to remove the grey
painted coating, don't rub to hard or the sratches will be hard to buff out
later. Then clean and wet sand again and work up the grits until you get
to the 400 grit. I suppose you could go to 600 grit if you wanted to, but
that's up to you, I stopped at 400. Okay, now is the fun part. Chuck the
wheel arbor into your drill(don't use a battery drill they don't turn fast
enough) with the buffs installed. Apply a little tripoli while the arbor
is turning, and start polishing. You may want to have some one hold the
cover while you are polishing. I think using the arbor on the drill works
so much better than a stationary buffer, because you can get into the nooks
and crannys so much better with the small buffs. Also wear a respirator or
you will have a metalic taste in your mouth for days like I did oops. Good
luck you will be very happy with the results, I was.
ARMAND RITCHIE
B395014212
° Received: (from majordom@localhost) by triumph.cs.utah.edu (8.6.12/) id XAA11040 for alpines-outgoing; Wed, 1 May 1996 23:27:23 -0400
Date: Wed, 1 May 1996 20:23:15 -0700
From: frodo4@ix.netcom.com (John Souders )
Subject: Re:
To: nyclewit@nyhp03.serigate.philips.nl
To: alpines@autox.team.net
You wrote:
>
>
>When I had a look at and in the steering box I noticed the oil level
>was very low.
>Looking into the various Alpine manuals I couldn't find how much oil
>it should contain or how high the oil level should be.
>Smelling the oil I also noticed it was gearbox oil is that the correct
>oil or should I use special hydrolic oil ? can I drain the box or not
?
>Any ideas out there ?
>
Oil in the stearing box is actually hypoy type gear oil (for rear ends
etc). In reality, it doesnt get hot, isn't under a deal of stress and
therefore is not exactly critical.
You will probably find that it is hard to keep oil in the box as the
seal on the bottom probably wore out years ago (long before the box
wears out). So you can remove the box and replace the seal, or do what
everyone else does - that is USE GREASE. I have used it for 10 years,
as have a lot of others. The steering works just the same and it takes
a lot longer to fall out the bottom.
As for draining it, I dont think there is a drain plug. I removed the
top cover and sucked out what I could with a piece of tubing before
filling with grease. While you have the cover off check those shims
under the cover if there is any play in the box.
Good luck
John
T Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 11:47:14 PST
From: winbladg@apps5.credence.com (Gary Winblad)
To: alpines@autox.team.net, tim@redsky.com
Subject: Re: Alpine Power Brakes!
>Anyone know anything about "power-assisted brakes" on the Alpine? My
>mechanic informed me that I had a bad leak in the cylinder of my
>power-assisted brake mechanism. He found a kit to rebuild the assembly
>(after determining that the cylinder was not scored) and put everything
>back together, sans leak. The problem now however, is that a spring is
>evidently sticking, holding the brakes ON randomly. What will happen is
>you'll start from a stop (after applying the brakes) and the engine will
>seriously lug through 1st and 2nd and damned near stop in 3rd - because
>the brakes are still on! Pumping the brakes hard a couple of times will
>free the spring, but it is quite irritating - as you might imagine.
>Any ideas out there? Do I need to just break this kit in? Or is
>something really wrong?
>Help! I love this car, want to keep it running well.
YES. 1. When he re-installed the vacuum canister with the 3 bolts inside,
he didn't get it re-aligned properly. The piston rod has to be
straight down the bore.
2. The sponge rubber thingy that goes behind the leather seal on the
vacuum seal is too thick. The tech tips say to re-use the old one
which I have been doing, or else take the new one and clip it
thinner.
3. The black grease for the vacuum canister that comes in the kit
is old and sticky. Use silicone spray liberaly instead.
I've had this problem myself on my own rebuilds. Got it stuck good in the
middle of the street one time! Had to bleed off some pressure to get it
home again... keep a little wrench with you.
Hope this helps.
Gary Winblad
San Jose
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From: Fumi Kobayashi <aa344@freenet.hamilton.on.ca>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 13:46:25 -0400 (EDT)
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Alpine script and badge (fwd)
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 13:43:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: aa344@freenet.hamilton.on.ca
To: DonBaby58@aol.com
Subject: Re: Alpine script and badge
On Mon, 29 Apr 1996 DonBaby58@aol.com wrote:
> I know this sounds stupid, but how does one remove the chrome Alpine script
> and 1725cc badge from the car body? I can't seem to figure it out! Any
> input is appreciated!
>
Don: The Alpine script is held on by 3 prongs which are part of the
script molding. These prongs push in to matching holes in the body which
are fitted with " U " shaped spring loaded clips which push into the
holes. When you push the script into the holes the " U " shaped clips
grab on to the prongs. Removing the script is only a matter of prying
the script away from the body, however, corrosion of the prongs may
prevent you from doing this easily. Maybe some WD40 might help. The
1725 badge is mounted with 2 prongs in a similar manner.
Good Luck.
Fumi
s Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: ritfam@mcn.org
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 11:07:32 -0800
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: RE Brake servo rebuild
>Date: Thu, 1 Feb 96 08:51:27 PST
>From: winbladg@apps5.credence.com (Gary Winblad)
>To: alpines@autox.team.net, tigers@alpine.b17a.ingr.com
>Subject: Brake servo rebuild
>
>
>I'm tearing apart an old brake servo, does anyone have a good
>method to remove the "plug" at the end of the small bore? This
>one is kinda stuck.
>
>Gary
Gary, I once used compressed air to get the piston out of my master
cylinder, I had inadvertanly istalled the seal backwards and it was really
stuck. So I used my air compressor and piped air in through the brake
fluid inlet while plugging the other outlet with a rag. This method might
work for your servo plug if you soak it good with liquid wrench first. You
might want to point it towards a wall and away from anything breakable as
it might fly out with force. Although my piston came out real slow, my
compresser was tiny.
Regards Armand Ritchie
Index Accessories Culture Diagnose Docs Howto Id Models Parts-Alt Performance Rebuild Rebuild-Body Rebuild-Electrical Rebuild-Engine Rebuild-Interior Rebuild-Tranny Rebuild-Underside Shoptools Sources Specs