Jerome's Sunbeam Pages
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13 Feb 1996 10:03 GMT
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 10:02:00 -0700
From: mcdermott_d@WIZARD.COLORADO.EDU (Dave McDermott)
Subject: RE: Stock Tiger Jack
To: T Wiencek <t_wiencek@qmgate.anl.gov>
Reply to: RE>>Stock Tiger Jack
Thank you for your help. Could you post the overall lengths (fully closed) of
the jacks you described? Thanx. Tom
Tom,
You asked for it. I checked my jack inventory last night and can you
believe actually found 5 different Rootes type jacks as follows:
Both of my MK 1 jacks are painted black, about 17 3/4 long in the
closed position, the arm is 8 1/4 long and the arm is attached about 11 1/4
from the top.
The jack in my MK 1A is painted black, about 19 3/4 long in the
closed position, the arm is 7 3/4 long and the arm is attached about 13 3/4
from the top. I also have a grey one with these with the same measurements
but I'm not sure what it came out of.
The jack in my MK II is painted black, about 20 1/4 long in the
closed position, the arm is 7 3/4 long and the arm is attached about 14 1/2
from the top.
One of unknown origin painted grey, about 19 3/4 long in the closed
position, the arm is 6 3/4 long and the arm is attached about 12 from the
top. I stripped out a Minx a few years back so it could have come from that car.
Another one of unknown origin painted blue, about 19 3/4 long in the
closed position, the arm is 6 1/2 long and the arm is attached about 10 1/2
from the top.
Norm also mentions on page 154 of his book that there are two types
of Tiger jacks both painted black but that a few owners have reported having
grey jacks in their cars. I cannot explain the minor differences in the
jacks in my MK1A vs. MKII. Until I measured them I thought they were the
same. Anyway I hope all this helps someone.
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From: DSand95510@aol.com
(1.37.109.16/16.2) id AA060286154; Fri, 28 Jul 1995 22:49:14 -0400
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 1995 22:49:14 -0400
To: TEdlund@aol.com, DonBaby58@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sunbeam radio
In a message dated 95-07-28 18:59:45 EDT, TEdlund@aol.com writes:
>-Since it was an option, there were cars with factory installed radios. The
>same radio used in the Series V (negative earth) was also probably used in
>the Tiger. I've heard that The Book Of Norm pictures a couple of radios
that
>were factory installed in Tigers. They are probably the same ones available
>for the Series V.
The AM radio for the Series V (and Tiger II) is different from earlier
models, and is unfortunately omitted from "The Book of Norman." The Series
V radio face plate is narrower, with a flat black, "crinkle" look. Unlike
the earlier models, which read "MOTOROLA over the station numbers, this model
says "SUNBEAM ALL TRANSISTOR" under the numbers. The speaker, which
attaches underneath, is also narrower, squarish, and flat black.
I'm currently sitting here looking over one of them, and I can't find any
indication of who made it. Numbers stamped on the side of the unit read as
follows: 7BSU 001394. If anyone knows the 'code' to this, please reply.
Oh, there's also a small, round plate bolted to a front corner with a wire
attached to the front of it. It may just be a component. It reads, in very
small letters, "Bendix 1859-23 6628P 10 D5." Any help?
The same radio was an option on the 1969 Alpine GT and Coupe fastbacks, the
only difference being that the Series V/Tiger II model has chrome knobs and
push-buttons; the fastback radios have black plastic. I also believe I saw
the same radio in an early '70's JEEP at a wrecking yard recently, minus only
the "SUNBEAM ALL TRANSISTOR" lettering, but I'm not 100% on that.
Dick Sanders
Seattle, WA
B395009510
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From: Tony Leeming <TLEEMING@city.nanaimo.bc.ca>
To: owner-alpines <owner-alpines@b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com>
Subject: Re: Sunbeam radio
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 07:51:00 PDT
Dick Saunders wrote:
> Unlike the earlier models, which read "MOTOROLA over the station numbers,
this >model
>says "SUNBEAM ALL TRANSISTOR" under the numbers. The speaker, which
>attaches underneath, is also narrower, squarish, and flat black.
My Series II has the same as Dick describes but it says " ROOTES" over the
station numbers. Seems like there were lots of variables!!
Tony Leeming Nanaimo, Vancouver Island,
British Columbia, Canada. (tleeming@city.nanaimo.bc.ca.)
1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series 2 ( My Pine )
µ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 889630861.87882-1 ; Wed, 11 Mar 1998 15:41:01 +0000
From: "Christie, Scott E. (CAP, GEFA)" <Scott.Christie@gecapital.com>
To: "'Jay Laifman'" <Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com>, alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: King Dick wrenches
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 10:37:17 -0500
Jay and others - of the toolkits I've inspected, it looks like the most
correct King Dick adjustable spanner is roughly 4 1/2 inches long, with
a thumbwheel in the handle, and the words "King Dick" on the side of the
adjusting piece (the top prong)- I hope my poor description makes sense.
They're not too hard to find at British car flea markets, but they
almost never work properly as they were of poor quality to begin with.
My .02.
Scott Christie
Series 3 Alpine Registry
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jay Laifman [SMTP:Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 6:12 PM
> To: alpines@autox.team.net
> Subject: King Dick wrenches
>
>
>
>
>
> I have found someone who will sell me a King Dick wrench, except that
> he
> has three different kinds. They all allegedly came from Alpines or
> Tigers,
> but I don't know which, nor does he. I have not seen them. But, I am
> told
> that the lettering of "King Dick" is different and in different places
> on
> two of them, and on the third, "King Dick" is not on the wrench.
> Also,
> there is an emblem on some of them, which may or may not be in the
> correct
> place. My car is a very late Series V. So how about a survey of
> what
> everyone's King Dick looks like? And, can you describe it with a
> straight
> face without mentioning its length?
>
> Jay
>
R
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From: LSheeley@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 11:22:27 EST
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: List Hat
The list is making great progress on the Alpines List Hat. The MG List was
somewhat slower in getting their designs up and running ( I didn't have a web
page then either). Here are some updates on where you are heading:
1. The designs so far being developed are all do-able. The 3-D effect of the
lines on the circle may cause some problem, however. Please remember that this
is not an inked hat we are talking about but a stiched hat and there are a few
limitations. That may need to be a solid line.
2. I can put the list address on the back of the hat, but this increases the
cost of the hat due to two setups per hat instead of one. That is OK, but
means instread of an $8 to $10 hat you are looking at a $10 to $12 hat (plus
$3 shipping). Also, putting the address in the back sort of defeats the
original purpose of the hat, which is for two Listees to instantly recognize
each other at a car event.
3. Hat style. I've got the old baseball-style hat with the big stiff front
piece. However, the current style is what's known as a low-profile hat which
has no stiffness to the hat. The most popular hat at car shows is a stone-wash
hat with khaki crown (just like expensive khaki pants) and either a blue,
black, green or burgandy bill.
4. A patch of the design would be the easiest solution on different style
hats, but unfortutely my equipment won't do patches.
5. Designs, once decided on, can be seen at my web page listed below. What I
will probably do is stich a design on a piece of hat material and pin it to a
hat until the list picks the design. I need for the group to narrow down the
design list to no more than three because it takes an hour or two to draw &
digitize each design. Remember, I don't charge the $75 to $100 to digitize
this design that a commercial sewing place charges which lowers the overall
cost of the hat. Also, I don't require a minimum order number. I will make
hats as list members request them with a usual 2 day turnaround plus 2 to 3
business days for the USPO Express box to arrive.
If there are any more comments along the way, I will post. BTW, since I do car
shows, I can accept VISA/MCard though I would prefer someone mails me their
car number and exp. date instead of using email. I'm not comfortable with the
security issues of the net.
Anybody have any questions?
Thanks!
Lynn Sheeley
Knoxville, Tn
The List Hat Guy
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/6526
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Mon, 15 Feb 1999 15:17:36 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 07:44:01 +0930
From: Paul Heuer <paul.heuer@dsto.defence.gov.au>
To: "alpines@autox.team.net" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Dash lights and wiring for options
1. Jerome, the gearbox lock option is a steel bar (about 6 to 8" long)
fixed by a movable joint arrangement to the top of the trans tunnel at
one end of its length. The other end is shaped to fit around the gear
lever and could be locked in place. A club member here has one on his
Tiger.
2. Further to the dim dash light saga, it seems I had one of the REAL
Lucas three position switches (OFF, DIM, FLICKER). I checked out the
wiring, found the resistors were in place, started to take voltage
measurements and viola - "bright light, bright light". I flicked the
switch a few more times and could only get dim lights. Another couple of
operations and the bright lights came back. After 5 minutes or so of
this game the bright dash lights could reliably be found. So, as my old
Grandpa would say, "Vertigrease boy, vertigrease".
What threw me was the unused connector on the light switch, and the fact
that I did not see the voltage dropping resistors on the switch (they
are little cylinders, about 3mm x 5mm butted up against one end of the
switch). I mistakenly ASSumed that the unused connector was for direct
connection to the lights and the used connection went off to some remote
resistors somewhere. Remember, this is for Series 3, Ole Olsen says that
things are different on his car, but he didn't say which model he has.
Anyhow, thanks to those that offer suggestions, especially John Slade
who went off and measured the resistance for me (8 to 10 ohms if anyone
else wants to know).
Cheers,
Paul.
--
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Mon, 15 Feb 1999 17:44:48 -0800
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 20:40:06 -0500
From: "Jim D'Amelio" <jimdamelio@home.com>
To: Jerome Yuzyk <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Wiring for options
Jerome,
I believe the "Anti thief gear box lock" listed in the brochure is the
same one that's listed in the parts book as a gear lever lock kit part
# 1219506. As the parts books states it was standard fitment in
Germany.
It's a pretty neat item, comes with the lock and housing that fits over
the gear lever and is attached to the trans with special break off
screws. You have to modify the "gearbox rear cover plate" to accept
the special gear shift boot also included. Select reverse gear, turn
the key and it locked in gear. Don't worry about loosing the key
because "spare keys may be obtained through your Rootes dealer".
Also included are instructions, template, and window decals. The decals
are in German.
I got this out of England in the early 80's for my III GT, this along
with the fuel shutoff standard on series III's should make good anti-
thief protection!
The fuel shutoff is another unknown part to many people. It's a brass
device that attaches to the fuel line at the pump and when pressed in
shut the flow of fuel to the engine. This was only used on series III.
Most of them have been removed or jury rigged cause they got old and
leaked. I've seen one soldered up and another with a bullet casing
jammed in it.
I have a few NOS fuel shutoffs for sale, but the gear lever locks not
Hope this helps.
Jim
Jerome Yuzyk wrote:
>
> Now that I know what's what with my harness, and resigned to peeling it
> and cleaning it up anyway, I'd like to add wiring for some of the
> options available. I have three already: Blower, Lighter, and Radio, and
> the system already uses three fuses in a four-fuse box. I need to add
> wiring for an OD switch, which necessitates peeling the harness almost
> end-to-end anyway. I'd like to add wiring for the under bonnet light and
> its switch. Where were these located? One archived message I had said
> the lamp was on the R-side firewall, and there was an extra switch on
> the dash, but the SII options brochure over at sunbeamalpine.com shows
> no dash switch. I do have a push-button switched located to the left of
> the wiper switch that was used for my horn. The brochure only mentions
> an "Under bonnet lamp kit." I'd rather have a switched lamp as a unit.
>
> Where did the switch for the "Fog Lights" go?
>
> BTW, does anyone know what was meant by an "Auxiliary control panel?"
> And, did anyone ever guy an "Anti thief gear box lock" (kinda pricey)?
>
> --
>
> - J e r o m e Y u z y k | jerome@supernet.ab.ca -
> - BRIDGE Scientific Services | www.tgx.com/bridge -
> - Sunbeam Alpine Series II #9118636 | www.tgx.com/bridge/sunbeam -
> - I'm going to SUNI III... Are You? | www.newsource.net/suni3 -
h Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in1.prserv.net id 938463481.118666-1 ; Mon, 27 Sep 1999 20:18:01 +0000
Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:14:32 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 13:15:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: William McCormack <mccormac98@yahoo.com>
Subject: Hammer?
To: alpines@autox.team.net
My Series III has it's original hammer. It's head is
made of lead. The hammer clips next to the tool kit
on the left side of the trunk.
Bill McCormack
Index Accessories Culture Diagnose Docs Howto Id Models Parts-Alt Performance Rebuild Rebuild-Body Rebuild-Electrical Rebuild-Engine Rebuild-Interior Rebuild-Tranny Rebuild-Underside Shoptools Sources Specs