Jerome's Sunbeam Pages
My Alpines List Archives - Parts-Alt
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Ï Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 875728853.37018-1 ; Wed, 01 Oct 1997 18:00:53 +0000
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 13:00:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: frodo4@ix.netcom.com (John Souders)
Subject: Re: RE. Alternate parts for Alpines++
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
>Not surprising. Things get lost in Lists, and I doubt very few people
go
>back much through the Archives. That's why I like to have a page
first,
>to "seed" the eventual list, and get everyone to respond against that.
>So, I'll put up the list you sent and once it's up you can re-send
your
>request for submissions.
>
>-
OK
Did you get my post re iol filters yesterday. I think it was bounced.
Re PH 8/16. I use an even smaller filter as used on later 1994+ SAABs.
Fills even quicker.
Then I see a post with a similar reply except that they actually use
the SAAB part as opposed to the FRAM. I'll try it..
John
x Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in5.ibm.net id 875333343.63150-1 ; Sat, 27 Sep 1997 04:09:03 +0000
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 23:08:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: frodo4@ix.netcom.com (John Souders)
Subject: RE. Alternate parts for Alpines
To: alpines@autox.team.net
I would like to start compiling a list of off the shelf parts that may
be used on the Sunbeams. There have been times whet I had to replace
something and either the original was out of stock or I was in a hurry.
Examples are:
1.Front braks pads from 1975 (ish) Merc Capri. Exact fit but guide
holes need drilling out.
2.Clutch master cylinder from MGB. Rebuild kit also works for Series V.
3.Heater valve is a generic in line unit from Kragan ($12). A little
modification to the cable required.
4.Volvo OD unit - I would like to know more re models years etc.
5.I have seen someone with a US made brake booster on their Sunbeam -
what was it from?
6.I hear the alternator from the Nissan pickup with internal regulator
is a good fit.(cant remember the year - maybe 1978-80) Metal work and
wiring required.
7. My single carb manifold is running a Holley 5120 series from a Chevy
Nova. Didn't even have to rejet. Some linkage work required. Manual
choke conversion required. (my car is smog exempt in CA)
etc etc
I would love to see this list grow, and I will keep any additions that
are posted to me, post them to the list eventually and hopefully get
someone to add it to a Web pag.
John Alpine IV(1725)
†
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Date: 13 Dec 95 16:10:50 EST
From: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
To: <alpines@autox.team.net>, <tigers@alpine.b17a.ingr.com>
Subject: FWD: Re: Re: Heater control valve
FORWARDED MESSAGE from "Joe Parlanti" (MAIL@CSERVE
{INTERNET:u3j57@cae-hou.com}) at 12/13/95 2:00p
8.6.10) with SMTP id NAA01440 for <@hti.net:JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
; Wed, 13 Dec 1995 13:48:51 -0600
930416.SGI.AUTO)
52:27 -0600
From: "Joe Parlanti" <u3j57@cae-hou.com>
To: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 1995 12:53:42 +0000
Subject: Re: Heater control valve
Priority: normal
I installed one of these in my series V Alpine. Doug Jennings from
Tiger Automotive in Dayton gave me the idea. Go to a junkyard and
look in just about any late model Honda and you'll find the valve. It
is brass, and looks very similar to the Sunbeam valve. There is an
extra bracket where the heater control cable attaches that looks
different than the original. The diameter of the valve is also a
little smaller than the original part. I used some rubber strips
around the valve so that it would fit into the Alpine bracket. I
didn't have to make any modifications at all to the hardware in the
car. The valve worked great, and according to Doug "Being from a
Honda, you no it'll never wear out"
Joe Parlanti
1966 Tiger Mk 1A B382002371
> I was told that the heater control valve from a Honda Civic,
> sometime from 1978 to 1980, I'm not sure which year, is very close to our
> valve. Anyone have any other info on this?
>
> Jay
Joe Parlanti
parlanti@cae-hou.com
***** NOTES from Jay Laifman (JLAIFMAN @ PNM) at 12/13/95 1:10p
+------------------------------------------------------+
| Jay S. Laifman Pircher, Nichols & Meeks |
| Sunbeam Alpine 1967 1999 Avenue of the Stars |
| Holbay H120 Engine Los Angeles, California |
| Porsche 911T, 1973.5 (310) 201-8915 |
| Real Estate Attorneys |
+------------------------------------------------------+
¾
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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 22:52:26 -0700
From: srohr@ix.netcom.com (Scott Rohr)
Subject: Mazda conversion
To: alpines@autox.team.net
I have had several requests to share some of my insights into using a
Mazda rotary engine in an Alpine after posting a description of my
Series I in hopes of gaining fame and recognition of having the oldest
running Alpine.
For those of you who are considering an engine swap, I can't reccommend
a better choice than a Mazda rotary from an RX-7. The rotary fits
nicely in the engine compartment with only slight modifications to the
cross-member and the transmission tunnel. The only clearance problem is
between the header and the right side steering control arm. I used a
header kit from Racing Beat in CA (aftermarket RX-7 supplier)to
fabricate my own header. The first bend is very tight, but I have been
driving the car for an estimated 20-25K miles and haven't burned a hole
in the headers yet. While not lightning quick, the car is lively and
has been extremely reliable. With only three moving parts in the
engine, there isn't much to go wrong except the occasional starter or
alternator failure. My car does run hot and I avoid rush hour traffic
in New York city, but I used the stock Alpine radiator. I plan on
changing to a larger capacity radiator and think this will cure the
problem.
The conversion required a little over a year to complete, but a lot of
general restoration of the car was involved as well. How much you spend
on an engine is proportional to how much horsepower you feel you need.
I would say plan on spending around $1,000 to $1,500 for a slightly
modified rebuilt engine. There are several different models of the RX-7
engine. I would suggest using a 13B from the early 80's. These seem to
be more abundant and parts for the earlier 12A are getting harder to
find. The biggest factor in horsepower is the size of the intake and
exhaust ports. I would reccommend giving your engine what is usually
refered to as "street porting". You can have a shop do this when you
buy the engine or there are books on how to do it yourself. The rest of
the parts needed to complete the conversion will probably run about
another $1,000. Keep in mind parts for the rotary engine are not cheap
either. The spark plugs have a special three prong electrode and run
about $6 a piece!
The list of bits and pieces needed for this conversion seems endless.
If anyone is seriously considering installing a rotary I would be happy
to answer specific questions and share the drawings I made when
fabricating all the various bits and pieces.
If you want to convert the engine in your Alpine for whatever
reasons-go with the rotary. It makes the car great fun to drive and I
take great pride in the fact I did virtually all the work myself.
Scott Rohr
Series I
B9000839 (Powered by Mazda)
PS. I still haven't seen anyone confirm an earlier car that runs:-)
˜ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 00:10:10 -0500
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: tgeiger@HiWAAY.net (Terry W. Geiger)
Subject: Re: No Subject/ sleeve for Brake Cylinder
>Bert,
>
>White Post Restorations at One Old Car Drive, White Post, Virginia 22633, USA
> does restoration work and resleeving of all types of brake
>cylinders/calipers. You can write them for more info or call at (540)
>837-1140.
>
>As an alternative, if the bores aren't too badly corroded, you can hone out
>the caliper and then replace the seals.
>
>Brian Corrigan
>
>67 MkV
>
If the calipers are the problem more can be found from a Ford product. The
1974 (and probably other year models) Mercury Capri sports the same
calipers. Brake pads are also the same. Rear wheel cylinders are also the
same and can be interchanged. Rear brake shoes are not (I'm pretty sure?)
interchangeable and the master cylinder is also not interchangable with the
Alpine. I discovered this while repairing the brakes on a Capri I was
driving several years ago.
I believe the pistons in the Alpine are the key as to whether the calipers
are rebuildable are not. If the pistons are pitted then it is unlikely that
the o-ring type seal will keep the brake fluid contained. New pistons and
rebuild kits (the kits contain all seals and rubber components for the
caliper) are available from Victoria British and Sunbeam Specialities. The
kits list for ~ $25 per axle and the pistons are around $20 each (there are
two pistons in each caliper so you'll need four pistons). I hope this info
helps.
Terry Geiger
Florence, Alabama USA
'66 Sunbeam Alpine - a.k.a. "Puff the Magic Dragon"; named so because
everytime you shift gears she puffs smoke.
'67 Sunbeam Alpine - just for parts, just in case
à Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in1.ibm.net id 875322781.73164-1 ; Sat, 27 Sep 1997 01:13:01 +0000
From: "OCAW Local 8-1 WebSteward" <ocaw@voicenet.com>
To: "Jerome Yuzyk" <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>, <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Seat Alternatives
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 20:09:33 -0400
charset="iso-8859-1"
Recaros and their copies will fit with little difficulty. Non-adjustable
racing buckets can also be bolted in place.
-- joe --
jfitz@comten.com
http://users.comten.com/JFitz/
ã Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in4.ibm.net id 875286030.91898-1 ; Fri, 26 Sep 1997 15:00:30 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: RE: Seat Alternatives
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 07:57:00 -0700
Jerome, and list,
>Have you had any success in fitting non-Alpine seats? I'd like some
>with a higher back and a head-rest if possible. What works?
I just installed some seats that I bought for road racing, but at this
price, ther could easily be "cushioned up" for proper cruising
use.
Easy to adapt to the standard seat adjuster mechanism too.
The seat is poylpopylene, comes with a snap on seat cover.
The seat has a high back "to prevent decapitation by my roll bar
in the event of a rear end collision".
Also the seat has firm lateral support, with integral seat belt
and "submarine" belt holes for use with a 5 or 6 point belt set.
cost was only about $65 each seat+cover. with optional
coloured seat covers.
JAZ products
805-525-8800
Jarrid Gross
K Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in5.ibm.net id 875630905.59368-1 ; Tue, 30 Sep 1997 14:48:25 +0000
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 07:47:27 -0700
From: CHUCK NICODEMUS <SEALMSTR@ICCOM.COM>
Organization: Armor Manufacturing
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: Seat Alternatives
Jerome Yuzyk wrote:
>
> > Jerome, i just tool out higghg back seats with head rest. they looked
> > great but on long drives we found them extreamly uncomfortable because
> > of the side supports on the seat. if you want them , next time you are
> > in oregon give me a hollar before..
> > chuck..series ll, withh normal seats.
>
> The side supports?
they are i guess kidney supports and have thigh side supports. real
comfpy for skinny people,,but for me i'm size 42 waist and 5-10" high
so i clashed with the comfpy department.
chuck, and when you decide to COME ON DOWN, let us know.
>
> My aim is to have the car run well enough to get to places like Oregon!
> I can only dream...
>
> --
>
> .-~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.- J e r o m e Y u z y k -~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.-~-.
> BRIDGE Scientific Services | jerome@supernet.ab.ca
> Edmonton, Alberta Canada | http://www.tgx.com/bridge
> Sunbeam Alpine Series II #9118636
K Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: DSand95510@aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 23:46:30 -0400
To: Alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Webers
In a message dated 96-05-22 23:25:39 EDT, a-richat@MICROSOFT.com (Richard
Atherton (Entex)) writes:
>>
>>I am trying to find a good carb setup for my 1592cc S IV. I have heard
>>a
>>weber is the way to go. Does anybody have any suggestions on a setup
>>for the
>>stock intake?
>>Thanks for your help.
>>
>>
>>
>>Will Leaming
>>1964 SIV
>>
There is a Weber which will bolt directly to your stock Series IV manifold,
but I can't remember the model. Also, according to the SUNBEAM SURVIVOR
guide put out by TE/AE, a Holley carb from a 2000cc (and maybe 2300cc) Pinto
engine will bolt on as well with very minimal modifications. The model # is
12R5228B.
f Received: from b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: Twgeiger@aol.com
(1.37.109.11/16.2) id AA257966778; Tue, 1 Aug 1995 18:39:38 -0400
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 1995 18:39:38 -0400
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Wire Wheels
>I've just been informed that my '62 Alpine S2 has approx 3-5 dud spokes
>on each wheel.
>Will any other well-supplied makes fit (eg. MG)?
Wire wheels from an MG Midget will fit your Alpine. There's one on my Ser V
car now that cannot be distinguished from the originals so I'm assuming that
they are from the same manufacturer.
Twgeiger@aol.com (Terry W. Geiger)
Florence, Alabama USA
'66 Sunbeam Alpine -- aka "Puff the Magic Dragon", named so because she puffs
everytime you change gears.
'67 Sunbeam Alpine (for parts, just in case)
x Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 20:44:32 -0700 (PDT)
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: marrone@wco.com (Frank Marrone)
Subject: Re: Yet another Alpine basket case
>>2. A Pinto/Mustang 2.3L 4 cyl. engine has been installed, but not
>>very well. Has anyone seen a decent conversion? How was it mounted?
>
>WOW, another Pintopine!!! Frank Marrone is the man to talk to..
>Frank, you out there?
>
Why me? Mine isn't on the road yet. There are others on the list with
running versions but I won't name any names in case they want to stay
anonomous. There are quite a few people with this swap. Almost too many
I'm very close and with any luck I'll be able to tell you all about it in a
month or two.
This swap can be done very cleanly. The motor really looks like it belongs
there, in my car anyway. You need to abandon the stock Alpine mounts and
weld your own to the Alpine crossmember. The trans mount can be done in
Tiger fashion. You can use the stock Alpine radiator in the stock location,
I'm not sure if it has the capacity for a "built" motor however. I used the
Alpine clutch master and slave adapted to the T5 bellhousing. More details
available to those interested. Not a bad swap if you are in the right frame
of mind.
Frank Marrone MK I Tiger B9471116
marrone@wco.com 1966 LTD
Series I Alpine (2.3L powered by Ford)
Yamaha Seca 900
†+ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 11:02:24 -0500
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: tgeiger@HiWAAY.net (Terry W. Geiger)
Subject: Re: Yet another Alpine basket case
>2. A Pinto/Mustang 2.3L 4 cyl. engine has been installed, but not
>very well. Has anyone seen a decent conversion? How was it mounted?
>
>This is just a project to soak up my spare time for the next year
>or so. Any help would be appreciated.
I guess Frank Marrone has finally flushed me from hiding and I must now
finally admit my Alpine is not Sunbeam powered.
Over a decade ago I started out with my Ser V Alpine as a restoration
project. The 1725 cc spun a rod bearing (a very common occurence I was to
later find out) only after about 3 weeks of service. I was a teenager with
little money and could ill afford to rebuild the Sunbeam engine. The
crankshaft was shot, and the rest of the rebuild job far exceeded my budget.
I also realized that it was quite probable that it would happen again even
if I did rebuild the engine. The Alpine was all I had to drive at the time
so I had to have something more reliable and less expensive to maintain.
The answer to my problem came in the form of a wrecked 1971 pinto with a 2.0
liter engine. I installed this engine in 1984 and ran it until last year.
The little 2.0 liter was tough and survived the hazing that all teenagers
put their cars through, but after years of service and a lot of fun miles,
the engine was smoking, burning oil, and transmission howled horribly from
spent bearings.
Instead of repairing the aging 2.0 liter, I decided to go the next step and
in the Spring of 1995 I installed a 2.3 liter Ford engine and 5 speed
overdrive transmission. The car is reliable, fun, and can maintain
sustained interstate speeds (not a high priority in Alabama but nice
neverthless) without difficulty. Parts are available and cheap, and the car
runs much stronger than the stock 1725 engine.
I'll give you a quick rundown of how I converted my Alpine into a Ford
powered car.
The Donor vehicle was a 1980 Ford Courier truck with the 2.3 liter Ford
(not the mazda) running gear. To the best of my knowledge all 2.3 liter
trucks came with a 5 speed tranney.
Engine mounts - consist of a flat pancake type mount that came out of a
1971 pinto. The mounts have a stud on each side that allow for easy and
simple mounting.
Steering - no modification were required to the steering (though it's real
close in places). The steering arm on the driver's side does bump the oil
filter (even if you use the short one) so a oil filter relocation kit would
be a good idea.
Intake manifold - clearances between the steering box and the intake
manifold are really, really TIGHT. On most 2.3 manifolds of the 1980's
vintage there is a plate on the end of the manifold that goes into the water
jacket in the cylinder head. Water flows through this end plate, preheats
the intake manifold, and then makes it's way into the head. The hose
supplying the manifold is one from the heater. The end plate that comes
with the engine is bulky and sticks out for no apparent reason. Removed the
original end plate and make a flat one. Drill a hold in the center of the
plate and tap to install a threaded connector that accepts a heater hose.
The connector needs to be at a 90 degree angle to conserve space. The
flatter plate gives you precious room between the intake manifold and the
steering box.
If you're running a weber carb (which is what comes one most 2.3's) you'll
find that the large factory air cleaner gets in the way of everything.
Victoria British offers an air filter for the Weber DGV's that, with some
slight modification to the bottom plate of the air filter, will fit your
weber. It'll look good and give you performance and accessibility to the
rest of the components under the hood (master cylinder, dipstick, etc). The
air filter is a Long Flo and the part # is 3-442 from my "Catalog of Sprite
& Midget Accessories & Parts". The catalog number is SM.18. It's the 1995
spring edition. This air filter is for the Weber conversion kit that fits a
Midget. This filter is short and helps on hood clearance as well.
Oil pan - I guess you've found the oil pan wants to bump the frame. Trim
the flange on the frame as much as possible. It still won't be enough so
what I did was heat with a torch and put a groove or recessed area in the
pan to allow for clearances. I would heat the metal and then fold over and
compact with light taps from a hammer. The depression was made on the
driver's side of the engine, away from any internal components. After I was
satisfied I had enough clearances (after pulling the engine in and out a
couple of times) I brazed the pan up with a brazing rod and repainted the
pan to hide my hideous crimes. Blue Ford engine paint hides many sins.
cooling - I used the original sunbeam radiator, however, a fan would not
fit on the end of the water pump pulley. To solve this I installed an
electric pusher fan in front of the radiator. It's thermostatically
controlled which allows for quick warm ups (something unknown in the
original engine). Get your radiator in top shape because you are pushing it
pretty hard to cool the larger engine on a hot day. I've had no problems
with the clean radiator, however, I feel with extended idling the car would
overheat. I've driven it on several trips (over 150 miles) and had no
trouble at all. It definitely gets hot enough in Alabama to test a cooling
system so I think everything is going to work out ok. If you do much town
driving, a 3 core radiator conversion(a good radiator shop can do this)
might be advisable.
transmission - the transmission mounts are nothing special and are simple
to make. I used a chevy transmission mount (very common, fits all the three
speed straight shift chevy's of 60's and 70's vintage).
The transmission itself is of Japanese manufacture (Mazda built the
Courier for Ford) and lends itself exceptionally well to the car. Very few
mods to the tranney tunnel were required. The shifter, unbelievably comes
out of the correct hole in the floor board. It sits approx 1" farther back
than the original shifter. If you're having tranney problems, this one
really works out well.
clutch - I stuck with a hydraulic set up. The courier came with
hydraulics and I just transplanted the clutch master into the Alpine.
starter - the starter is on the rear of the engine on the courier. To
solve clearance problems I cut the section of the tranney tunnel from the
courier that was over the starter and transplanted it into the alpine. I've
had some problems with the started wanted to turn slowly when the engine is
hot. Upgraded to a high amperage battery and installed heavier battery
cables and have had not problems since. I am considering putting a heat
shield over the starter to prevent the exhaust pipe from excessively heating
the starter.
gas pedal - I used the cable, pedal, and linkage from a Mercury Bobcat of
early '80's vintage (most any ford car that came with a weber and a 2.3l
will work).
fuel pump - the mechanical pump that came with most 2.3 liter
engines will not clear the frame in my series V car. I installed an
electric fuel pump in the trunk to keep it out of the already cluttered
engine compartment.
Got rid of the wire wheels and went with a set of Aluminum slot Ford
mustang wheels from the mid '70's. Gives it kind of a "Tiger" look and
better stability with the 6" wheels.
I also keep and maintenance log on all my vehicles and I've been careful to
store all parts numbers and where they came from on the Sunbeam. I've
included a copy of the parts section of the sunbeam maint.log in hopes that
it will be of help to you:
>1966 Sunbeam Alpine
>Running Gear:
>1980 Ford Courier VIN # SGTBXK-25242
>
>Engine: 2.3 liter ford (1980 Ford Courier)
>Transmission: 5-speed manual overdrive of Japanese manufacture (1980 Ford
Courier)
>
>Ignition: 1978-80 Mercury Bobcat
>Ignition module: ST'D #LX203
> B/W #CBE7
> NIEHOFF # FF402
> PARTS MASTER 4-3002-V
>Distributor: 77-80 Bobcat, Pinto, and non-turbo Fairmont w/2.3 liter
> Best Test #55-2009
>Spark Plug Wires: Rockhill 2970 (1978 Pinto w/2.3 liter)
>Spark Plugs: Autolite #765
>Ballast Resistor: Standard Part #RU-11
>
>Carburetor: Weber 2bbl from 1980 Mercury Bobcat
> Motorcraft Carburetor #D7EE HA
> A 6 G 23
> United Carburetor Rebuilt #7-7530
>Carburetor Kit: Standard Motor Products Hygrade Jiffy Kit # 969 J9
>Carbunretor Linkage: I used the cable, pedal, and linkage from a Mercury
Bobcat of early '80's vintage (most any ford car that came with a weber and
a 2.3l will work).
>Fuel filter: Fram G2 (in trunk at fuel pump)
> Fram G22A (at carburetor)
>PCV Valve: Standard #V203
>Air Filter: LongFlo from Victoria British. It's the air filter that
goes with the MG Midget Weber Conversion Kit. The part # is 3-442 from my
"Catalog of Sprite & Midget Accessories & Parts"
>Oil Filter Fram PH16
>
>Oil Capacity 5 qts
>Oil type Pennzoil 5-30w (winter)
> Pennzoil 10-40w (summer)
>
>Voltage Regulator (Chevorlet)
> ST'D #VR103
> B/W #R281
> NIEOFF #DR153B
>Alternator: Rockhill #7058 (late 70's Ford)
>Fuse Box: 1957 Pontiac Station Wagon
>
>Cooling:
>Radiator: Ser V Sunbeam Alpine
>Thermostat: Gates #33258
>Thermostat housing gasket: Felpro #35114
>Upper Radiator Hose: 1980 Ford Courier
>Water Pump: Precision #348 (1980 Ford Courier)
>Lower Radiator Hose: Universal Fit
>Cooling Fan: 9" Electric pusher cooling fan
>Cooling Fan Thermostat: Universel fit (adjustable)
>Fan Relay: Four Seasons #35777 (Late Model GM blower relay)
>Heater Control Valve: Four Seasons 74627 ('69 Ford Truck?)
>Cooling Recovery Kit: Champ # CSL 9-1663
>
>Engine Mounts: Pancake or Hockey puck style - 1971 Ford Pinto
>Transmission Mount: Anchor #2378. Late 60's Early 70's Chevy transmission
mount for three speed standard shift. Very Common.
>Clutch Slave Cylinder: 1980 Ford Courier
> Rebuild Kit: Wagner F103501
>Clutch Master Cylinder: EIS #E98254 (1975-78 Toyota Truck)
>
>Differential: Stock Ser V Sunbeam w/3.88 gear ratio
> Wheel studs: Dorman # 610-157
Terry Geiger
Florence, Alabama USA
'66 Sunbeam Alpine - a.k.a. "Puff the Magic Dragon"; named so because
everytime you shift gears she puffs smoke.
'67 Sunbeam Alpine - just for parts, just in case
~
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in7.ibm.net id 875678994.32460-1 ; Wed, 01 Oct 1997 04:09:54 +0000
From: Rootes@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 00:06:22 -0400 (EDT)
To: tleeming@island.net
Subject: Re: Oil Filters
In a message dated 97-09-30 14:14:48 EDT, you write:
<< There you have it. Any guys using Mann Filters on their Alpines out
there?
Tony Leeming
Series II >>
Well, I for one, use a SAAB filter on my Alpine and my Cricket. The
original application for the Sunbeam filter included SAAB on the label, so I
did a little research. The SAAB part# 9144445 oil filter, as fitted to 4 cyl
SAABs, is a good filter for the Sunbeam. On a SAAB, it's placed sideways, so
the filter is anti-drainback. An added bonus is the reduced diameter, making
it easier to install and remove, and quick to fill at oil changes. The filter
is designed to take the abuses of a 2.3 litre intercooled turbo, so I have no
qualms in trusting it's filtering ability! As to the reduced size, I change
my oil every year or 2500 miles, whichever comes first, so I know I'm nowhere
NEAR the dirt capacity of ANY filter!
As for the other brands -
I'm in the parts trade, and happen to now work at a VW-SAAB dealer.
However, in the early to mid 80s, I worked in an auto parts store. Fram, at
that time, listed the PH16 for a Sunbeam, not the PH8. This was where I first
saw the SAAB listing on the box! A PH43 is similar, but has no drainback
provision. Indeed, the PH16 may not have it anymore, either! Since my stint
in the parts store, I have grown VERY disillusioned with most aftermarket
suppliers. For instance, VW has no less than FIVE part numbers for oil
filters, that are ALL replaced by ONE PH2870A Fram. To me, if the
manufacturer bothers to make and stock a different part number, there's GOTTA
be something different inside!!
..... now, if I could just find a substitute for the huge cannister filter on
my Humber....
Jon Arzt Rootes@aol.com
µ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 875694203.67656-1 ; Wed, 01 Oct 1997 08:23:23 +0000
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 00:26:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Timothy Obrien <vbob@primenet.com>
To: Rootes@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil Filters
Just adding my two quarts to the filter issue.
1.) I have a 87 Saab 9000Turbo, a 92 Toyota Pickup, and the 66 Alpine.
They all can use the PH8 filter from Fram. The cross reference for the
Toyota is PH3643 I think (I'm in Japan right now so I can't check).
2.) In the Perfomance Catalog for Toyota trucks, there is a remote mount
filter setup for the pickup's R22 engine. It should fit the Alpine with no
problem and requires an additional quart of oil. More details next
week if there is interest. It consists of an adaptor plate with oil lines
coming out to a new filter mounting plate. I'm wondering how to put a
cooler in the same line.
Now back to SB42 discussions......
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
tim vb-o'brien
vbob SJ,CA
'66 Alpine Series V B395002095
__ __ ____ ___ ___ ____
vbob@primenet.com /__)/__) / / / / /_ /\ / /_ /
/ / \ / / / / /__ / \/ /___ /
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
‰ Received: from b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 20:04:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ted Reese <reesee@ucs.orst.edu>
To: DSand95510@aol.com
Subject: Re: PCV
Funny that you bring this up. A few weeks ago I had to purchase a new
PCV valve without the luxury of having my old one. In the auto parts store I
pointed to some of the pictures and I left the store with a valve made
that you can have the same luck.
On Mon, 11 Sep 1995 DSand95510@aol.com wrote:
> Does anyone know of other applications for the Series V Alpine PCV valve.
> Its not listed in the Specialties or Victoria catalogs. I've heard it
> might be an old Ford part, but there's nothing resembling it at the larger
> auto supply stores.
>
> Dick Sanders
> B395009510
>
4 Received: from ingr.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Thu, 5 Jan 95 16:50:25 PST
From: winbladg@apps5.credence.com (Gary Winblad)
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Alpine power
>performer like the Series I thru IV engine I think my
>long term solution is to go with a 2300 pinto motor ala
Why not a rotary Mazda? The classical Roto-rooter. Excellent
motor, fits in an Alpine like it was made for it, lasts 200k,
comes with a nice full syncro 5-speed, is LIGHT WEIGHT.
The nicest thing about an early series car in Calif is it doesnt
need smog... Series 5 1966 does...
Gary
8 Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 875807026.225608-1 ; Thu, 02 Oct 1997 15:43:46 +0000
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 08:42:01 -0700
From: Tony Leeming <tleeming@island.net>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Oil filters
Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA) wrote:
Sure enough, the filter had stress cracks along the welded
> bead on the side of the filter. Good thing it said mopar on it, and I
> had a reciept to show that the same dealer had installed it less
> than 1000 miles earlier.
>
> I wonder if those Mopar filters are made by Peugoet in the old
> Coventry factory where the ole alpines were made.
> Wouldnt that be some serious Karma.
>
> Jarrid
Here is some more info I gleaned from the MGB thread:
On another BBS I saw a survey of oil filters and the rating (WORST to
BEST) was: Fram, Pennzoil, Wix/Dana, Master Mechanic, Lee Maxi, Big-A,
A/C, Mann. Not entirely sure of the test criteria, but filtering media
area ranged from 118 sq.in. (Fram) to 307 sq.in. (Mann) and cannister
wall thickness from .012 in. to .021 (Mann). The Mann is a German-made
unit and is OEM supplied on a number of European cars. A unit that fits
the later spin-on MGB's is available from Volvo dealers as part no.
3517857-3. This is equivalent to Fram PH-43 or Fram PH-16 which most of
us are probably using.
They're not as cheap as your average Wal-Mart Fram but the quality seems
to be much better and I bought a case of 12 at a cost of $CDN 6.25 each.
There you have it - more food for thought!
Tony
¾ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in7.ibm.net id 875903764.67978-1 ; Fri, 03 Oct 1997 18:36:04 +0000
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 1997 11:30:30 -0700
From: Tony Leeming <tleeming@island.net>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: oil filters
CHUCK NICODEMUS wrote:
>
> Tony, Jarrid, and the rest. I checked on NAPA filters to-day and by the
> numbers listed recently, the filter listed for SAAB pn 914445 is adapted
> to NAPA no.1348, cost is locally at 4.99 USeh. And the filter for MANN ,
> pn 3517857-3, is NAPA no. 1311 cost is 9.22. so i guess some just cost
> more ,,but which one do i use??
>
> chuck series ll, B9119821
Chuck - they appear to have just cross - referenced you over to a NAPA
product, so how does NAPA rate to the real thing? Based on what Jarrid
says I think if you are going to use a NAPA filter,it needs to be a PH16
or a PH43.
Jarrid?
Tony Leeming
The wet wet coast
Ï Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 17:26:00 -0700
From: Jarrid Gross <GROSS@unit.com>
Subject: Early alpine "Hot brakes" or is that "Co
To: "'alpine clan'" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Here is a mod for all you pre series III alpine owners
who want more bite to your brakes.
Since no aftermarket performance pads seem to be available for
the early girling calipers, here is a way to get real sports
car braking for very little coin.
I have done this mod twice "once with $9 repco heavy duty pads,
and once with the metalic pads". Total work time should be
about 1.5 hours.
This mod will give better stopping power, less to no brake fade
and more brake pad surface area relative to the stock asbestos
pads.
Drawings will be available "upon request" if the instructions
are not totally clear.
NOTES:
This tech note applies only to non modified early girling
calipers that use the rounded bottom brake pads.
It is imperative that you keep the brake pads clean and do
not touch the pad surfaces with oily hands.
Also do not inhale any of the dust generated by the grinding
process.
Read the instructions totally so you are not in the dark with
future instructions before you get to them.
You will need a bench grinder "or equiv", a dremel tool, a sharp
scratch awl and a fine eye.
1)
Purchase a set of metalic brake pads to a 76 datsun 260Z.
The Datsun uses calipers nearly identical to a later model
alpine or tiger.
I got mine at the auto parts club for $18 (PN 700-150M).
The M in the part# designates metalic.
There are two obvious differences between the old vs. new
girling pads.
a) The bottom portion of the pads are rounded "specifically
the old pads have a 1.5 inch radius". The new pads are
somewhat square.
b) The new pads have metal that surrounds the pad holddown
pins. The old ones do not. Also the pins will not exactly
the new pads in the caliper, so a dremel tool will be used
to open the outside portions of the pin holes for fit.
2)
Pull one of your old pads from the car. Clean the old pad
thouroughly.
3)
Place one of the new pads in the caliper with the metal side of
the pad place toward the piston side of the caliper, but with the
pad portion on the outside of the caliper. This will allow you
to gauge the amount of metal you will have to remove from the sides
of the pin holes on the new pads. Use a dremel tool with the
appropriate size bit and grind until a slightly loose fit is
secured with the pins fully installed through the pad and caliper.
4)
Take the old pad and the new pad and put them back to back.
Line the pads such that the the bottommost portion of the new
pads pin hole lines exactly with the top most portion of the old
pads.
This assures the pads are alligned how they will be used.
A pin installed through the new pads pin hole, should just touch
the old pad where the old pad was held in the caliper.
5)
With a very clean pair of vise grips and very little force,
squeeze the two pads together while adjusting thier positions
accurately.
6)
Take the scratch awl and carefully scribe a line in the back
side of the new pad, using the old pads side as a guide.
7)
Remove the vise-grips and carefully grind the material off the
outside portions of the new pad. Keep the radius slightly oversized
as final fitting will be done with a file.
8)
The sides of the pads will also have to be notched similar to the
shape of the old pads so the pad can be rotated in the caliper.
The exact shape of the notch is not critical, but dont remove too
much pad backing as only a small notch will be needed. This is so
the pad will freely rotate in the caliper.
9)
Slide the new pad into the caliper and check for fit. Attempt
to install the pins into the caliper and pads. It will not likely fit.
You must now remove the pads and use a file to trim the pad so that the
pins can be installed with a very small amount of play. Note that the
pads should be able to freely rotate inside the caliper with the pins
removed. The pads should be fully deburred and smoothed with a file
prior to final assembly.
Good luck!!!!
Jarrid Gross
SII EFI
"If it aint bleedin, it must be out of oil"
Æ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 09:04:46 -0500
From: Michael Fisher <fisher@tomahawk.dst.battelle.org>
Subject: Electronic Ignition
To: alpines@autox.team.net
I finally gave up on the stock ignition system and installed an electronic
ignition system from Crane (model XR3000, without ballast resistor). I used a
coil from an 85 VM GLI (an extra I had around). The result is much more
reliable performance, ease of starting, wider gap in the plugs (hotter spark),
better fuel efficiency, well you get the idea.
The Crane ignition is really easy to install, took about 30 minutes and about
another 30 minutes of fussing with the timing to get it right. Total cost was
about $130 for the ignition system and $30? for a hotter coil. Very worth it.
Since I now have electronic ignition, a Bosch alternator and halogen hedlamps,
how much more of the Lucas electrics can I remove and still say I have a
british car?
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Fisher
fisher@tomahawk.dst.battelle.org "The leader has a sense of humor. He is
not a stuffed shirt. He can laugh at
614/424-3620 himself. He has a humble spirit."
614/424-3918 (FAX)
If I knew what I was doing, it wouldn't
Battelle be research.
505 King Avenue
Columbus, OH 43201-2693 "In science we can't let some guy from
Podunk have the same vote as Fermi."
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (for mom and the kids)
'85 Jetta GLI (to get me to work)
'68 Sunbeam Alpine Series V B395017314 (just for fun)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ê Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 22:54:22 -0500 (CDT)
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: Doug Ferrell <mail.rootesclub&cjnetworks.com@topeka.cjnetworks.com>
Subject: K & N filters for Alpine 5 with Stromberg's
Here's a tech tip from the Midwest Sunbeam Club's files: Alpine 5's with the
twin
Stromberg 150 carbs can use a K&N filter. First, you have to cut apart the old
factory-type filter assy, and remove the glue which bonded the elements to each
assy., then you will need to flatten the tabs on the inside of each assy.
half. Next,
make 2" long spacers out of, say, copper tubing of an ID closest to 5/16",
which is
the size of the bolts which hold the assys to the carbs. The K&N filter part
# for this
mod is: E3220. Order two, of course. If you so desire, the assy. halves can be
chrome-plated for a "show" look. You can still hook up the original hose which
connects to each carb. The benefits of K&N filters are: increased CFM airflow to
each carb, and much better filtration, too! Doug Ferrell.
Þ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: Rootes2@aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 12:44:37 -0400 (EDT)
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Anti-lock brakes
Just to add a liitle fuel to the brake pad discussion, the front pads
even be able to find the more exotic compunds available for the Saab
application, too.
BTW, if you have a worn pedal pivot pin, the pin for a Saab is an exact fit,
and if you are in dire need of a SerV clutch master cyl kit, a Saab 900 kit
is the same. Saab dealers being as sparse as they are, this may not help, but
in a bind, you look where you can!!!
Jon Arzt Rootes2@aol.com
‚ Received: from newmarket.imag.net [204.244.225.33] by in7.ibm.net id 898276613.90686-1 ; Fri, 19 Jun 1998 17:16:53 +0000
From: herbeam@cari.net (ROBERT WILLIS)
To: "John Souders" <frodo4@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Front shock replacement
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 1992 10:18:53 -0700
charset="iso-8859-1"
Damping is for a much heavier front end so I imagine they will do a much
better job!..Try to get some gas shocks if they make them and your front end
need s a little lift!
>From C.A.T. Shop Notes book.......3rd addition (1980) the following list of
interchangeable shocks:
Sears 79281
Gabriel Adjustable 63329
Full Size Buick '65-'70
Buick Riviera '66-'70
Cadillac '65-'76
For the rear:
Gabriel Adjustable 63171
Ford Truck '50-'74
jaguar Mark 9 '62
Lincoln '52-54
Corvette '60-'62
Olds Vistacruiser '63
-----Original Message-----
From: John Souders <frodo4@ix.netcom.com>
To: Herbeam <herbeam@cari.net>
Date: Thursday, June 18, 1998 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: Front shock replacement
>Thanks Bob - are they a bolt on. Damping similar?
>
>John
>
>You wrote:
>>
>>check for 68 cadillac front shocks.......monroe
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: John Souders <frodo4@ix.netcom.com>
>>To: alpines@autox.team.net <alpines@autox.team.net>
>>Date: Thursday, June 18, 1998 4:37 PM
>>Subject: Front shock replacement
>>
>>
>>>Anyone out there know of an off the shelf front shock that will bolt
>on
>>>a Series V Alpine?
>>>
>>>My search for those off the shelf parts continues.
>>>
>>>John
>>
>>
>
Received: from newmarket.imag.net [204.244.225.33] by in2.ibm.net id 898293491.84628-1 ; Fri, 19 Jun 1998 21:58:11 +0000
From: "Rex Funk" <rexfunk@magick.net>
To: <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Interchangable Parts
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 15:04:24 -0700
While rummaging around in my old notebooks, I came across some listings for
interchangable parts which I'll pass on for what they're worth. I was
restoring a S III at the time, and ,most of the info dates back to 1989
before SUNI I.
Doug Ferrell had a great listing for interchange bearings and seals that
should be posted on the Web.
Sunbeam Interchangeable Parts
Fit Series III Alpine
Part Manufacturer Part No. Notes
Upper Radiator Hose Gates 26404 Cut & Fit
Lower Radiator Hose Gates 26415 Cut & Fit
Note: Much better rubber than most hoses. Easy to fit to S III-V.
Rear Shocks (S III) Monroe Gas-Matic 5854 (in 1989)
Front Shocks Monroe Gas-Matic 5829 (in 1989)
Note: I logged some miles on these shocks, and they seemed very adequate.
Disc Brake Pads also Fit: Austin/Morris 1800 1964-72
Rover 2000 1966-72
TR-4, 6, & GT-6 1962-72 (Try Roadster Factory)
Ford Capri 1.3-3.0 1969-71
Ford Cortina MK 1 GT & E only 1969-70
Compares with GDB525
* Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 899922536.96316-1 ; Wed, 08 Jul 1998 18:28:56 +0000
From: "Michael Fisher" <fisher@sphery.onu.edu>
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 14:28:10 -0400
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Stump the parts man
I apologize in advance for the length. I went throught the NAPA and Beck
Arnley catalogs on Saturday. Here is what I found:
>From Beck-Arnley World Parts Catalog
Part Description Model Info Year Part No List Retail
Timing Chain Alpine, Arrow, 65-70 024-0226 19.79 19.79
Hunter, Minx, Rapier
Oil Filter Imp Sport, 67-70 041-8069 6.09 7.19
Stilleto
Alpine, Rapier, 63-70 041-8970 8.23 8.23
Tiger
Bearing (Front wheel) Imp 63-68 051-3843(IN) 12.30 12.36
Alpine, Imp, 56-68 051-3848(OU) 10.16 10.16
Rapier, Tiger
Generator Bearing Imp 63-68 051-3860 11.23 13.43
Transmission Seal Auto 052-0403 14.44 16.01
Transmission Seal Manual 052-2128 4.27 4.76
Front Wheel Seal Imp 63-68 052-2128 4.27 4.76
Clutch Release Bearing Alpine III, IV 63-67 062-0666 32.09 38.01
Rapier V
Caliper Kit (Front) Alpine III-V, 63-68 071-1051 15.72 19.13
Tiger
Arrow, GT, Minx 59-70 071-1416 13.58 16.47
Rapier III, V
Wheel Cylinder Kit Arrow 67-70 071-0236 8.02 9.20
(no piston)
Brake Master Cylinder Alpine, GT, 59-70 071-0152 6.95 8.04
(no piston) Minx, Rapier
Clutch Master Cylinder Alpine I-III, 59-64 071-0145 6.95 8.33
(no piston) Rapier I-III
Clutch Master Cylinder Alpine IV-V, 63-68 071-1671 13.37 13.37
Ignition points Hunter, Imp, 59-70 171-6190 7.16 8.65
Rapier I, III, IV
Condenser Alpine, Arrow, 59-70 172-5829 5.02 6.07
Hunter, Imp, Rapier I, III, IV
Ignition Rotor Alpine, Arrow, 59-70 173-3773 2.88 3.36
Hunter, Imp, Rapier I, III, IV
Distributor Cap Alpine I 59-60 174-0067 14.65 17.79
Imp 63-68 174-0166 14.97 18.23
Alpine V, Arrow,65-70 174-0216 9.09 10.84
GT, Hunter, Rapier V
Voltage Regulator Alpine II, III 60-65 177-0197 67.40 82.10
Rapier III, IV 60-65 177-0197(w/ 8 pin connector)
Alpine IV, V, 63-70 177-0213 65.80 80.32
Arrow (w/ points type regulator)
Rapier I, II, 63-70 177-0213 65.80 80.32
IV, Imp
Rapier III, V 63-70 177-0213 65.80 80.32
(w/ 6 pin connector)
Ignition Coil Alpine, Arrow, 58-70 178-8009 37.44 45.21
Hunter, Imp, Minx, (internal reistor coil)
Rapier, Tiger
Alpine, Arrow, 58-70 178-8025 34.23 40.20
Hunter, Imp, Minx, (w/ external reistor)
Rapier, Tiger
Reman Distributor Alpine, Arrow 58-70 185-0002 111.28 125.56
Imp
Stop Light Switch Alpine III, IV, 59-70 201-0130 10.16 11.44
Arrow, Hunter, Imp,
Rapier III, Iv, V, Tiger
*******************************************************************************
NAPA Parts (the part numbers are in standard TRW format):
Rear Wheel Seal Alpine, Rapier 56-66 47387 5.88 6.89
Differential Bearings Alpine, Rapier 56-66 SET45 17.65 23.32
Imp, Stilleto 65-76 SET5 12.30 16.22
Outer Pinion Bearing Alpine 21075/21212 20.00 24.27
Inner Pinion Bearing Alpine M88048 13.58 16.47
88010 6.95 8.16
Seal Alpine 46140SF 3.74 4.51
Piston Rings Tiger (260) 40009 5.59 107.98
U-Joints Alpine, Rapier, 341 17.65 23.93
Imp
Tiger 369 9.30 12.31
(heavy Duty) 280 18.93 25.84
Front Wheel Bearings Alpine 59-66 SET21 33.70 44.18
(inner) Rapier 56-66
Tiger
Alpine 67-75 SET4 10.37 13.77
Imp 63-76
Rapier 67-76
Stilleto
Front Wheel Bearings Alpine, Imp SET2 9.09 11.56
(outer) Tiger, Stilleto
Rapier (except 56-60)
Rapier 56-60 16150 24.07 28.88
16284 13.37 15.63
******************************************************************************
There are also many ignition parts listed, e.g. 66-73 Alpine: CS207A (contacts)
EP29 (condenser) EP48 (distributor cap) EP41 (rotor), just too much to type. I
haven't tried cross-matching any original Lucas numbers to the Beck-Arnley
catalog or NAPA parts. If you have a particular part number, send it to me and
I'll see what I can find.
--
Mike Fisher
http://sphery.onu.edu/~fisher/
m-fisher2@onu.edu. "The leader has a sense of humor. He is
not a stuffed shirt. He can laugh at
419/772-2740 himself. He has a humble spirit."
419/772-2330 (FAX)
If I knew what I was doing, it wouldn't
Physics Department be research.
Ohio Northern University
525 South Main Street "In science we can't let some guy from
Ada, OH 45810 Podunk have the same vote as Fermi."
"Astronomy compels the soul to look
upwards and leads us from this world to
another."
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
t Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in5.ibm.net id 900225518.97866-1 ; Sun, 12 Jul 1998 06:38:38 +0000
From: DSand95510@aol.com
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 02:36:43 EDT
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 2 Fan or not 2 Fan
In a message dated 98-07-10 17:00:19 EDT, RBailey@doa.state.la.us writes:
>I use a five-blade flex fan blade that Smittie recommended to me when I
>lived in San Diego. It is plastic molded on a metal plate. I had to
>enlarge the center hole a bit. Other than that it fit perfectly. It
>seems to the job really well. When you live in Baton Rouge and can say
>that your Sunbeam doesn't overheat in July, your saying something.
I was given the name of a fan some time ago that supposedly works great on an
Alpine. It might be the same as mentioned above - as it needs the center hole
enlarged.
HAYDEN 13" flex fan - # 3513
Dick Sanders
Seattle
Ì Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 900485558.86218-1 ; Wed, 15 Jul 1998 06:52:38 +0000
From: "Rex Funk" <rexfunk@magick.net>
To: "Steve Sage" <rootes@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Alpine Transmission Question
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 23:57:23 -0700
Steve Sage wrote:
>Has anyone done a 5 speed conversion on an Alpine?
I have tried to follow this thread on this mailing list with very little
success. There are people out there who have the recipe, but Macy's is
apparently not telling Gimballs. I the interest of public disclosure, I
will summarize what I have learned, and add some conjecture. Until we can
pry some info out of someone more knowledgeable, we'll just have to pool
our ignorance.
The guys down under apparently adapt early Toyota 5 speed T-50s with cast
iron gear cases and aluminum bell housings with good success. This trans
has a decent set of gear ratios, including a 5th gear that approximates the
Laycock OD at about .80. This trans was used in the Corolla and Celica in
the late 70s, and later changed to an aluminum gearcase. The problem is
that the shift lever was moved about 5" back on the later trans by using
linkage that is internal in the top of the trans. Adapting one of the
'82-85? trans. from a Celica would require cutting a new hole, or using a
serpentine shift lever. BTW, Toyota went to a FWD for their Celicas and
Corollas in about 1986.
I have been measuring transmissions off and on for the last 5 years, and I
looked at one of the cast iron T-50s once. It was quite narrow like the
Alpine's and I got the impression I that it would fit in the Alpine's trans
tunnel, and that the shifter would come out where the Alpine's does. I am
trying to find an early T-50 in my area, but so far no success. Apparently
they are much valued for swaps, upgrades, and maybe racing.
I recently posted a message from a Healey mailing list where a guy adapted
a Supra 5 spd. trans in a Healey. He said they used the Healey clutch
cover and yoke, but had to use a Toyota clutch plate. This figures, since
it would have splines to match the input shaft. You would have to make
sure the Toyota clutch plate fit the Alpine pressure plate face and the
flywheel. The Toyota transmissions I have seen have a very small dia.
spigot on the end of the input shaft (about 1/2" dia). It would seem you
could adapt them to virtually any engine just by getting a thick-walled
oillite bushing with an OD that fits the crankshaft hole and an ID that
fits the spigot.
On the output side, it should be a simple matter to mig weld the front end
of a Toyota drive shaft to an Alpine drive shaft. Just make sure you have
it balanced and use new U joints.
So now we get to the interesting part: splicing the bell housings. I once
thought this was done only by alchemists, but apparently it's a common
rodder's trick. If the Alpine's clutch yoke and throwout bearing are used,
I would assume that as much of the Alpine's bell housing as possible would
be included in the final product. But the bell housing would have to be
the correct height so the input shaft would just fit into the spigot hole
in the Alpine's crankshaft. After measuring (at least twice), both bell
housings are cut (only once), and then heilarced together to form a solid
unit. Matching the pieces would be an issue, as would the opening to
accommodate the clutch yoke. Of course, it would be critical to maintain a
parallel plane for the front and rear faces of the bell housing, as well as
the correct rotation of the trans. This looks like a job for a machinist
with "real" tools, and not me with my metal cutting blade on the skillsaw.
I don't know if you can cut aluminum with a plasma cutter (Macys?
Gimballs? can you tell us?), but that would be a slick way to section the
bell housings.
After that, it's a matter of adapting the Alpine's trans cross member for
new mounts, hooking up the clutch linkage from the slave cylinder, lining
everything up and bolting it all together. Have I left anything out ? (OK,
you have to fill the trans with oil).
There are probably other 5-speeds out there that could be used. The Ford
Ranger 2wd PU trans (both early Toyo-Kugu and later with aluminum case &
integrated bell housing) look like a match. I'm not sure about the ratios,
but they have 5th OD.
Keep in mind, none of these transmissions are that much stronger than the
Alpine's, so 150 HP fire breathing hipo engines are probably not a match
(bad news Jarrid). Below are some measurements I took on a S III trans
tunnel. I am pretty sure you can get a trans that fits without
re-arranging these dimensions. The critical part is the "saddle" that
sits just behind the ashtray, and just ahead of the junction of the X-
brace. It is a structural member, and modifying it, or the X-brace would
be dicy.
My 2c. Let the games begin.
Rex Funk
-----------------------------------
Viewed from top: (Crude is not the word for ASCII drawings. . sorry if
this gets trashed)
| firewall
|<------------------24"----------------------->|
____
| firewall to saddle
/
|
/
| ____------------------------------------/
\ /___/
\ -------\/----/ | |
\ 4.5" / | 5.5" 8" tapered 9"
14" <Inside dimensions
/--------/\---\ |__|
of Tunnel
/ <---7"---->\ /\ \--------____________________
/ \ Saddle
\
X- brace
\
\ ____
|
|
Measure your Alpine's transmission, and try to get as close to it as
possible. The critical dimensions are: (based on All syschro, non OD
trans. Recheck your own trans)
-Distance from the front of the bell housing to the centerline of the
shifer lever
My Alpine's is 22 1/4". . . short by modern standards
-Height of shifter lever base (to fit raised cover, or hump, on Alpine
tunnel)
Alpine's is relatively high off centerline of trans (plan on adapting
lever).
-Width of the gear case at various sections (to fit the tunnel).
Alpine gearcase is 7" wide, narrow compared to many other trans. The last
4" of the trans must be narrow enough to fit into the 5.5" wide "saddle"
part of the tunnel
-Overall length (to fit in front of the X-member)
Alpine's is 32 1/2", shorter than many (like Nissan 300 ZX @ 35")
Q: Why all these long transmissions with "far back" shift levers?
A: Modified driver positions due to laid back and longer windshields.
Really screws things up for us more vertical-windscreen LBC guys.
a Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in3.ibm.net id 902430458.91036-1 ; Thu, 06 Aug 1998 19:07:38 +0000
From: Phyrman5@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:06:20 EDT
To: alpines@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Tie Rod Rubbers
As requested, I found what the part number for the tie rod end booties. They
are from a Jaguar (I don't remember which). The number on the invoice is:
EAW2270 BOOT, TIE ROD END RUBBER
I got them at Douds British Car Parts, Pasadena Ca. phone#626-793-2494
fax 626 793-4339
they were $8ea. and fit well. They don't look like the original, but they
work.
Bruce D.
T Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in3.ibm.net id 903506794.99192-1 ; Wed, 19 Aug 1998 06:06:34 +0000
From: "Rex Funk" <rexfunk@wizzards.net>
To: "Roger Gibbs" <rgibbs@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Yeeeouch!
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 23:13:32 -0700
charset="iso-8859-1"
Roger Gibbs Wrote:
>I will second Jarrid's view that you might want to at least consider doing
some of the work
>yourself. Talk with your paint/body friend. I have performed body work
(bumping/straightening
>through painting) on a couple of vehicles and I enjoyed it. But it did
take me a long time.
Some good advice, Roger. I also did my own body and prep work, and color
sanded and buffed the PPG Deltron acrylic urethane paint after a pro sprayed
the top coat. How valuable is your time, and how much of a perfectionist
are you? You will need to put in considerably more time for a first-time
do-it-yourself paint job than a pro would. I did mine as an education, and
did save some money over a commercial paint job. You'll need access to an
air compressor, a spray gun, and a suitable place to shoot the high-build
(high solids) sanding primer. I sprayed and sanded 3 separate coats. I
would recommend the epoxy primer as a sealer.
You can find suitable tools in the Harbor Freight and other catalogs. The
newer high volume low pressure paint guns seem like a good deal, since they
conserve paint. Figure on laying out $200 - $500 in tools, and a similar
amount in paint, sandpaper, tape, solvents, and other supplies. PPG has
some very nice paint systems and its Concept line has replaced the Deltron
paint I used. It is safer to use, and more environmentally friendly. They
have an excellent manual that gives you a step-by-step procedure. I like
the ease of repair of these acrylic urethane paints. Chips can be retouched
fairly easily, and the paint can be color sanded to erase orange peel. This
is the difference between a 50/50 paint job (looks good at 50 ft. or 50 MPH)
and a show finish. I stayed away from the base coat-clear coat systems,
because the solid paint is easier to repair. It was also what the factory
used. We can't have our cars looking better than original, can we?
If you're after Carnival Red look-alike, Scott Woerth (master Sunbeam
Restorer from Christiana, PA) told me to use Porsche Guards Red. Don
Sesslar, who won the 1964 SCCA F Production National Championship in an
Alpine, and who now works for PPG, told me that red paint is more expensive
because it takes longer to grind the very hard vermilion colored rocks used
If you decide to do the prep yourself, take Jarrid up on his offer. You'll
need a guru. Mine was John Lorenzo, who has restored several Tigers and
Alpines. Keep in mind that there are some jobs that are time sensitive, and
won't wait. You might have to use some vacation time or burn the midnight
oil to get blocks of time, or to complete a job before the paint dries. At
times your wife may feel like a painter's widow. Plan your project
carefully, and be realistic about how long it will take.
The up-side is the satisfaction you feel looking at the final product. A
labor of love can sometimes look as good as a $6,000 job.
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@pacbell.net>
To: Jay Laifman <Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 18, 1998 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: Yeeeouch!
>Jay Laifman wrote:
>>
>snip
>> On the negative side is the bill. The guy said to do my car "right"
would
>> require covering the entire car in a type of bondo/primer and sanding it
>> flat. This is because if you slide your hand over the surface of the car
>> you do feel waves and bumps here and there which would show once painted,
>> especially with the dark color I want to use. He also felt there would
>> need to be a bit of time to make sure the hood, doors and trunk all lined
>> up perfectly. So, he put in 95 hours for this work. At $25 per hour,
that
>> hit my estimate up $3,000! That's almost as much as I figured I'd pay in
>> the first place.
>>
>Jay,
>
>First, on the positive side, congratulations on locating such an excellent
specimen of a shell.
>Whatever happens with your adventure you have the pleasure of knowing that
the paint is put on a
>stong, rust and accident free base.
>
>Second, I suggest that you take a look at
>http://www.horizonweb.com/wwwboard/Spray_101/wwwboard.html
>
>This bulletin board concerns itself with spray painting cars and there is a
wealth of
>information contained there. Plus you could post any questions that you
may have to Len and
>probably receive an answer within a few hours.
>
>If you were to ask there what the procedure should be for your car the
answer might be:
>
>1. Strip the paint to bare metal (done)
>2. Perform all welding and major sheetmetal bumping (done?)
>3. Clean, clean, clean the metal and give it a prep wash, then prime; or
skip the prep wash and
>prime with an etching primer.
>4. Maybe seal the primer with an epoxy primer, maybe not (how compulsive
are you ?)
>(somewhere in here you fit hood, doors, etc and check for fit)
>5. Spray on a high solids fill/sanding coat, cover this with a contrasting
color guide coat.
>6. Block sand until flat, if you sand through the sanding coat, repeat
steps 5 & 6.
> Note: Step 6 can take a long time. How perfect do you want the finish to
be ?
>7. Seal the primer/surfacer/guide coat, then
>8. Spray on the color coat; depending upon the type of paint chosen
(lacquer, acrylic enamel,
>urethane, etc.) this might be the final coat or it might have to be clear
coated.
>9. Polish the paint (depending on the type of paint this might not need to
be done, might have
>to wait several months).
>
>The quality of finish on a car is a very subjective thing. How nice do you
want it ? The
>extimate that you were given doesn't sound all that out of line. If you
negotiate the price down
>the workman spends less time on preparation. Only you can determine the
level of quality that
>you want to afford.
>
>I will second Jarrid's view that you might want to at least consider doing
some of the work
>yourself. Talk with your paint/body friend. I have performed body work
(bumping/straightening
>through painting) on a couple of vehicles and I enjoyed it. But it did
take me a long time.
>
>Some of the major drawbacks to painting IMO are taking the car apart (yours
is already apart)
>and the threat of having to do major body work, which as Chris pointed out
is sometimes tough,
>(but your shell looked very straight).
>
>Good luck ! Have fun. (Maybe AAA would be willing to give you some more
money if you ask
>nicely ?)
>
>-Roger
>
( Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in2.ibm.net id 904779813.80752-1 ; Wed, 02 Sep 1998 23:43:33 +0000
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 19:43:37 -0400
From: John Slade <edalsj@igs.net>
Organization: Island View Associates
To: Colin Cobb <cobmeister@zianet.com>
Subject: Re: cooling probs
Hi Colin,
The problem with overflow bottles is that most are just that...they
catch the overflow. However, there is a better solution, imho.
In the 1960's, same era as most of our cars, certain Volvo models (6
cyls and some 4's) carried a plastic bottle which appeared to be an
overflow bottle, but was actually a functioning part of the cooling
system (unlike 98% of similar looking bottles on other cars). The rad
was sealed except for the "overflow pipe" which went from the top of the
rad to the bottom of the bottle. The top of the bottle is flat and has a
screw top...the same screw top that most rads have, so the rad cap goes
there. As such, the water level in the system can be monitored by
observing the level in the bottle. Once the system is set up, normal
levels in the bottle are approx 1/4 full when cold, and 2/.3 or so full
at operating temp. You must remember to replace the normal rad cap with
one which seals tightly so that the pressure is controlled from the
bottle.
On first filling after installation, the system gets rid of all its air
out through the bottle, and sucks good coolant back on the next cooling.
You must consequently top up for a couple of cycles before stability is
reached. When working correctly, it virtually guarantees a completely
full cooling system.
I have got a couple of these bottles from wreckers yards, and have used
this system on a number of cars, and it worked every time. Latest was a
36 Packard, with the added benefit that I can now lightly pressurize the
system (4psi cap), and the car doesn't boil over any more on hot, slow
days.
Hope this is clear.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
ò
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Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 21:21:57 -0600
From: Brad Sahr <bsahr@mn.mediaone.net>
To: Bill Gullatt <bgullatt@mesahq.com>
Subject: Re: Series IV (automatic trans)
Bill,
Regarding value, I believe it is worth somewhat less than a comparably
equipped manual alpine. I believe the price difference would vary
directly with the condition of the car. That is, if the car is in very
rough shape, the price would be comparable with that of the manual
alpine. But, as the condition improves, I would expect an automatic to
fetch much less than a comparable manual alpine. This is because the
automatic does not appear to be in high demand (as the manuals with
overdrive are).
Regarding the Borg-Warner Type 35 transmission. There are lots of them
around. You can even buy a completely rebuilt transmission from
http://www.chicagoclassicimports.com/vtrans.html
In my searches on the internet, I found the transmission was used in the
following cars (there are lots more):
Citroen DS23 - '73 to ?
Volvo (various from '65 to '75)
1973 Triumph 2500TC Mk2
1967 to 1973 MGB
1967 to 1969 MGC
1975 Ford XB Fairmont
Tricomponent.com on the web lists parts for the Borg Warner Type 35
transmission. The link is
http://www.tricomponent.com/productlist/plates3-cryl.html
AND a most excellent find - exploded parts pictures of the bog-warner
Type 35 transmission - at the TEAE website. Link:
http://www.mindspring.com/~teae/alparts.htm
With a dual down draft weber, the automatic transmission gives decent
performance. You're definitely not going to be smoking the tires.
Brad
Bill Gullatt wrote:
>
> Alpiners,
>
> I found a Series IV automatic car and am contemplating the purchase. What
> kind of value should an auto Alpine have and how easy is it to get parts for
> the transmission? The car is complete, straight and solid but very worn.
>
> Bill Gullatt
> Madison, AL
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 914897667.518442-1 ; Tue, 29 Dec 1998 02:14:27 +0000
From: Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu (Christopher Albers)
To: rmaddock@petrie.hotkey.net.au
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:28:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Windscreen frame
Organization: Biola University
I used window caulking available from the local hardware store. It's
just a grey, clay-like cord used in sealing windows during the framing
stages of a house.
rmaddock@petrie.hotkey.net.au writes:
>According to one of the Rootes Service Bulletins in my copy of the
>SAOC's
>Alpine Guide, windscreen rake should be adjusted by packing under the
>windscreen frame with something called "Glasticord" sealer. Anyone know
>what
>this is or of a substitute?
>Russ Maddock
>Brisbane, Australia
>From: "Russell Maddock" <rmaddock@petrie.hotkey.net.au>
>Subject: Windscreen frame
>Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 09:50:32 +1000
µ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 915237555.514784-1 ; Sat, 02 Jan 1999 00:39:15 +0000
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 17:05:30 -0800
From: Jarrid Gross <jarrid_gross@earthlink.net>
To: Robert Wiseman <rob@wisemaninsurance.com>
Subject: Re: Part Manual
Robert Wiseman wrote:
> Does anyone have the Alpine Series I part manual. I need to see the
> diagram of the heater blower switch. The plastic part and the
> electrical connection are broken and I need to make one. I have been
> unable to find one so I get to make one. Anyone with the knowhow to do
> this, I would appreciate your imput
> Rob
Go to the local trons part store and get yourself a lever type micro switch
like the ones
used in electrical cabinets, where as a failsafe, when the doors are
opened, the power is
disconnected. Get one with a N/C contact, so that when the lever is not
pushed, the
contacts close, and your blower will turn on.
Radio Shack will not likely have one of these, try something more
industrial, or a larger
type store that sells surplus trons.
As for the mounting, place the switch on the side away from the direction
of the control
lever when "on". Mount the switch however, and wherever appropriate, but
such that
the lever is pressed when the control in in the "off" condition. Ajustment
"by bending
the switch lever" should be such that the last half inch or so of control
lever travel, contacts the
switch's lever, and opens the switch.
Be certain that the switch is rated for 10 amps at 12vdc. A 5 amp switch
be acceptable, or the switch can in turn actuate a relay with the proper
current rating.
Jarrid Gross
â Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 915688428.148436-1 ; Thu, 07 Jan 1999 05:53:48 +0000
Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:54:37 -0700 (MST)
From: Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu (Christopher Albers)
To: den114@cruzio.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 20:55:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Pertronix Repl #?
Organization: Biola University
The part number you are looking for is LU-142A. This is an improved
version of LU-142, which only had one mounting screw; the new one has
two. Don't pay more than $79 for it, you may even be able to find it
den114@cruzio.com writes:
>Could anyone help me with the part number for the Pertronix electronic
>ignition for the dist on a SV?
>I could not find mentioned it in the previous messages.
>Thanks
>Dennis Osmer
>Watsonville CA
>From: "Dennis Osmer" <den114@cruzio.com>
>Subject: Pertronix Repl #?
>Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 15:04:33 -0800
Ï
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Mon, 11 Jan 1999 08:25:33 -0700 (MST)
From: "Ed Esslinger" <eee1@snowhill.com>
To: "Robert Wiseman" <rob@wisemaninsurance.com>,
"alpines@autox.team.net" <alpines@triumph.cs.utah.edu>
Subject: Re: Ignition
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:14:22 -0000
charset="iso-8859-1"
Robert --Maybe this will help you can't go wrong with this product.----Ed
Esslinger
TECH TIP
GOOD NEWS FOR SERIES
1 THROUGH IV ALPINES
By Ed Esslinger
Two years ago, I wrote an article extolling the merits of the PerTronix
IGNITOR. I have driven to the last three uniteds in three different Sunbeams
all equipped with the IGNITOR and have had no problems whatsoever .I now
have five Sunbeams with the IGNITOR installed.
In my previous article on this subject, I reported that the IGNITOR was
only available for negative ground cars, which was true at that time. Fact
is I converted my series three to negative ground just so I could use the
IGNITOR .
Now the good news for those of you that want to keep your Sunbeam stock
(positive ground) PerTronix now makes an IGNITOR for positive ground
Sunbeams.
Maybe you are new to TE/AE and ask what the heck is an IGNITOR?
It is a electronic ignition system, smaller than your thumb that replaces
your points and condenser and fits entirely in your existing distributor,
using your existing coil. Your engine will stay in tune, as there are no
points to go out of adjustment, you will have higher voltage out of your
coil, due to increased dwell time, you will have better fuel economy and
your spark plugs will last much longer. They are dependable made in the USA
and have a two and a half year warranty.
As I stated in my previous article on this subject I have no financial
interest in this product, but would like to thank C.B.S. Performance
Automotive for providing IGNITORS as door prizes for past uniteds.
C.B.S. sells the negative ground IGNITOR for $79 the positive ground
IGNITOR for $89
If you tell them you are a member of TE/AE or mention Sunbeam they will give
you a $10 discount .and ship it free. Call them at 1-800-685-1492 and thank
them for supporting TE/AE.
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Wiseman <rob@wisemaninsurance.com>
Date: Monday, January 11, 1999 2:20 AM
Subject: Ignition
>Has anyone tried the electronic ignition that fits inside the
>distributor.
>How well does it work and how hard to install. I was thinking that
>would be a nice improvement without changing the looks of anything.
>Rob
>
R
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in2.ibm.net id 920047817.153730-1 ; Fri, 26 Feb 1999 16:50:17 +0000
Fri, 26 Feb 1999 09:47:16 -0700 (MST)
From: Jarrid Gross <JGross@econolite.com>
To: "'Bill Gullatt'" <bgullatt@mesahq.com>,
"'Alpine People (E-mail)'"
<alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Fuel Delivery
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 08:45:51 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
Bill Gullatt wrote,
>I am nearing completion of my 1725 rebuild and want to know my best option
>and cost for carburation. I have the original Strombergs but wondered if
>there is a better way to go. What is the Webber setup and how much should
it
>cost. Has anyone ever used the Holley/Webber from a 2300 Ford?
The Holley 5200 is a licenced knock off of the original weber DXX series
carb.
It is a mass produced carb, mostly for american 4 cyl engines from
the mid to late 70s.
The Holley is inferior to the weber in several respects, some
of which relate to casting quality, and others relating to
parts availabilty.
If you are searching for a boneyard carb to save coin, look
engines and 70 to 74 capri's with 2000, 2600 and 2800 CC engines.
You will also find them on front engined fiats (124 and 2000).
Dont mess with the rear engined fiats, these carbs are too small.
If you dont mind buying new, there is a weber distrubutor on the
east coast The Performance Parts Warehouse.
www.webercarburetors.com
They sell new 32/36 DGV carbs, but for the dollar, you could
buy a 40 DGAF carb which has two 40mm synchronous throttles
instead of staged ones.
Great bang for buck IMO.
As far as jetting goes, starting with the same jet sizes as came
stock for the solex will get you close, but the larger weber chokes
will require larger main jets by the ratio of choke cross sectional
area differences.
Hope this helps.
Are you sure you wouldnt rather inject it?
Jarrid
ß Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in5.ibm.net id 921136988.99938-1 ; Thu, 11 Mar 1999 07:23:08 +0000
Thu, 11 Mar 1999 00:18:36 -0700 (MST)
From: "herbeam" <herbeam@cari.net>
To: "Scott Donnelly" <oharajem@free.midcoast.com>
Subject: Re: Alpine steering wheels
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1993 23:13:47 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
RX7 MAZDA bolts on and is Supreme....been driving one for 4 yrs...Little
Smaller...thick hard rubber grip, 4 spoke...easy horn hook up..perfect
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Donnelly <oharajem@free.midcoast.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net <alpines@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 5:30 PM
Subject: Alpine steering wheels
>Are there any aftermarket steering wheels that will fit the
>Alpine? I'd prefer a little smaller diameter and a little
>thicker rim. Something kind of period looking, no go cart or
>low rider wheels please.
>Scott Donnelly
>
– Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in5.ibm.net id 921201939.399670-1 ; Fri, 12 Mar 1999 01:25:39 +0000
Thu, 11 Mar 1999 18:18:56 -0700 (MST)
From: "herbeam" <herbeam@cari.net>
To: "Alpines AutoX Team" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Ball Joint Boot
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1993 17:14:00 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
Thread last week was ball joint boots and I uncovered some information in
the Tech Tips from SUNI '89:
Lower Ball Joint Covers: Use VW type II Bus covers P/N 211 405 375
Also converting 7/16" wheel studs to 1/2" use Dorman P/N H155 (no drilling)
Hope this is useful to some.... Herbeam in San Diego
!
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 921261546.82550-1 ; Fri, 12 Mar 1999 17:59:06 +0000
Fri, 12 Mar 1999 10:54:12 -0700 (MST)
From: "Almjeld, Paul" <PaAlmjel@dwu.edu>
To: rnanzig@webtv.net, "Almjeld, Paul" <PaAlmjel@dwu.edu>
Subject: RE: K&N Air Filter
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 11:53:30 -0600
Hi Rob and all
I just spoke with a rep from K&N. According to him, K&N filter #E-3951 (6
3/4 X 4 1/2 x 1 7/8) should be a direct replacement for Weber filter E1000.
It's a bit pricey at $34.42, but it's also a great filter.
Dr.Paul Almjeld
Department of Music
Dakota Wesleyan University
palmjeld@dwu.edu
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rnanzig@webtv.net [SMTP:rnanzig@webtv.net]
> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 1999 9:21 PM
> To: PaAlmjel@dwu.edu
> Cc: alpines@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: K&N Air Filter
>
> Hi Paul, I also have a 32/36 DGV on my SV and have been searching this
> past week for a replacement filter. After reading your message about
> K&N I went to several websites to see what you were talking about. The
> description of reusable filters that can be cleaned and oiled sounded
> familiar as I recall seeing something on my current air filter about
> oiling. So I ran to the garage, pulled the chrome cover, and found a K&N
> filter installed. No part # , but the dimensions are 2 1/2 tall by 4 1/2
> by 6 3/4. Does your current filter setup have a rectangular chrome
> cover with 6 clips holding it in place? My cover is rusted and will not
> respond to chrome cleaner, but I may have found an MG Weber site with
> replacement covers.
>
> Rob Nanzig
> 67SV Grand Haven MI- We now have dry streets!!!
>
> Paul wrote:
> I'm running a 32/36 DGV Weber with the Weber air cleaner for it that is
> supplied by Rick at SS. Is there a K&N replacement filter that will fit
> in the Weber housing? Thanks
c Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in3.ibm.net id 922120397.126462-1 ; Mon, 22 Mar 1999 16:33:17 +0000
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:43:51 -0700 (MST)
From: "Dobrowski, Robert S" <Robert.Dobrowski@JSF.Boeing.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, "'Brian Jones'" <bj@tmb.com>
Subject: RE: heater valve anyone?
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:43:24 -0800
The early Alpine heater valves are identical to the ones used on the Austin
Healey 3000 and Triumph Spitfire and probably several other brit cars. I
believe that Moss Motors still carries them as well as the sealing grommet.
Check out their web site for details http://www.mossmotors.com/
> ----------
> From: Brian Jones[SMTP:bj@tmb.com]
> Reply To: Brian Jones
> Sent: Friday, March 19, 1999 11:54 AM
> To: alpines@autox.team.net
> Subject: heater valve anyone?
>
> Anyone out there know where I can get a Series II heater valve, or have
> one
> in a spare parts car I can buy? SS has them backordered, and noone else
> seems to have them. Mine's leaking fairly badly, so I have to add water
> once a week to my radiator.
>
> Thanx,
>
> Brian Jones
> '62 Alpine(Series 5 Engine)
>
à Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in5.ibm.net id 922341391.394122-1 ; Thu, 25 Mar 1999 05:56:31 +0000
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 22:53:40 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:52:51 -0800
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: The Mole <dbilesky@cln.etc.bc.ca>
Subject: Fwd: Re: heater valve anyone?
Rick @ ss says the 78-79 honda civic is the one.
dgb
>Somewhere on the net or here I read that a valve from a mid nineties honda
>civic works. Is this correct?
>
>Terry Smith
>
>
>
Ë Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in5.ibm.net id 923008140.383204-1 ; Thu, 01 Apr 1999 23:09:00 +0000
Thu, 1 Apr 1999 16:04:18 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 17:04:04 -0600 (CST)
From: frodo4@ix.netcom.com (John Souders)
Subject: Re: Front Shocks
To: alpines@autox.team.net
I used Buick Riviera '66-'70 front shocks.
Had to shorten the bottom eyelet with a hacksaw and open the eye a tad
but they were only $10 per.
Probably wouldn't have done this had someone else not recommended it to
me. They do however work fine.
John
You wrote:
>
>aalbano@home.com writes:
>>Any recomendations about front shocks for a '66 Alpine?? I don't plan
on
>>doing any hard driving so I don't think I need anything special. Are
>>there any "off the rack" shocks that will fit?
>
>>Anthony Albano
>
>Anthony,
>I could be wrong, but I do not believe there are any "off the rack"
>front shocks available for the Alpine. You'll have to buy shocks from
>Sunbeam Specialties or, God forbid, Victoria British. I recommend SS
>over VB any day.
>
>Christopher
>oh yes, welcome to the list
>
 Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in3.ibm.net id 924368524.194544-1 ; Sat, 17 Apr 1999 17:02:04 +0000
Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:59:45 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Karen James" <kjames@sprint.ca>
To: "Alpine List" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Cross-Matches
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 11:59:51 -0500
Thanks and good work to some listers who provided cross-matches that have
worked.
For my Series V
Front shocks, 1966-70 Riviera, Cadillac Calais, Monroe 32134. Just swap
metal sleeves in the lower rubber bushing.
Rear Shocks, 1960-62 Corvette, Monroe 32126
I needed the return spring from inside the Clutch Master Cylinder. Someone
tipped me that these have the same innards as a 79-93 SAAB 900. Ordered
the part from SAAB and it matched. Part #30519959. Flew the part in 1,000
miles (I never told them what I was doing with it). Only problem is that
because its a SAAB part it was $12 Canadian. That's about 8 cents US
(small joke)
Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Received: from ns3.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in4.ibm.net id 925260354.100554-1 ; Wed, 28 Apr 1999 00:45:54 +0000
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:43:45 -0600 (MDT)
From: TIGEROOTES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:42:15 EDT
Subject: Re: hub dust caps
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Scott,
For replacement front hub grease caps try: DORMAN 618-018 or 616-503. They
are direct replacements, but were discontinued about a year ago. You may be
able to find some old stock somewhere! One advantage is they are about
one-half of the weight of the originals...it would seem they were made from
old British Army helmets!
Jim Leach, Seattle
Received: from ns3.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in1.ibm.net id 925833247.25746-1 ; Tue, 04 May 1999 15:54:07 +0000
Tue, 4 May 1999 09:51:50 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Jay Laifman" <Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:34:20 -0700
Subject: Servos
For those of you that asked, my letter from AP Lockheed, of September 21,
1993, about my 1967 SV said:
"The vehicle was originally fitted with a Girling servo, part number
64049126. AP Lockheed's recommendation as an equivalent to this servo is
part number LE10117."
The servo I bought from VB had instructions that had charts on applications
and ratios:
Full Kit # - Servo only # - boost
LE10117 - LR18221 - 3.00:1 - Recommended one
LE15741 - LR17792 - 2.30:1 - SS one
NLA - LR17813 - 1.90:1 - VB one
They list the following cars with each:
Recommended one: Alfa Romeo Berlina, Saloon, Spider Veloce & Coupe, AH
3000, Aston Martin Lagonda, Jaguar XK 120, 140 and 150, Ford Corsair 120E,
MGC, Rover 80,94,100.
SS one: Ford Cortina, Sunbeam Alpine SII, Sunbeam Rapier, Hillman Husky,
Super Minx, Hunter, Avenger, Triumph Spitfire, Triumph Vitesse, 2liter
Saloon and Convertible, Cortina Lotus, Reliant Scimitar, Vauxhall, Volvo
P1800
VB one: Mini 1275 GT and Mini Cooper S
I will point out however, that they list a fourth servo which has the same
boost ratio as the VB one - 1.9:1, that is suggested for:
Hillman Imp, Hillman Minx, TR3, TR4, Sprigets, Mini Cooper (not S or GT),
Ford Capri, and MGA.
Hope this helps.
Jay
ˆ Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in5.ibm.net id 928773190.116764-1 ; Mon, 07 Jun 1999 16:33:10 +0000
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 10:33:30 -0600 (MDT)
From: "herbeam" <herbeam@cari.net>
To: "Rick Ehlert" <ricke@idcnet.com>
Subject: Re: Overdrive/Rear gears
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 09:30:08 -0700
charset="iso-8859-1"
A low cost swap is with a rear end out of a 73 Mercury Capri. The width
restricts wheels to stock rear wheels and the capri drive shaft is the same
diameter as the sunbeam so you can cut and weld the pieces together . The 4
cyl had a 3.70 rear, the V6 stick had 3.50 and the automatic V6 was 3.30 I
had one in a Sunbeam and it was easy to adapt as the ebrake is similar and
the wheel bolt pattern the same, even the wheel cylinders are the same!
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Ehlert <ricke@idcnet.com>
To: <alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 1999 8:01 AM
Subject: Overdrive/Rear gears
> Hi Everyone!!
> I desperately want/need to drop rpm's on my summer juants to the country!!
> I own a '66 Series V without O/D!!! Does anyone know of a tranny and O/D
for
> sale?
> Or, has anyone tried the Toyota T-50 trans. conversion? Or, maybe just a
> simple rear gear swap-out? Input PLEASE!!!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rick Ehlert
> B395004581 LRX
>
>
u Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in4.ibm.net id 929051427.95944-1 ; Thu, 10 Jun 1999 21:50:27 +0000
Thu, 10 Jun 1999 15:51:14 -0600 (MDT)
From: Jarrid Gross <JGross@econolite.com>
To: "'lauri@lorenzo.pp.fi'" <lauri@lorenzo.pp.fi>
Subject: RE: 69 Alpine gearbox
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 14:48:59 -0700
charset="iso-8859-1"
Lauri,
The internals are identical (to SV all sync), just the shaft and tailhous=
ing
is longer.
Jarrid Gross
>Tony,
>
>The Arrow based cars have a longer transmision.
>
>
>Jarrid
>
Damn!
So I can not mix outer/rear parts of a Mk4 with full synchro inner parts =
of
an Arrow/Alpine 69 ???
I heard differentias are interchangeable. At least the whole gear assembl=
y?
So a faster rear end of an automatic Alpine 70 fits to the drivesafts of =
an
mk4???
=A3arry Leaflet
=A3auri Lehtinen
Lehtipuu Oy
Kirkonkylantie 83
00780 Helsinki
FINLAND
tel: +358 400 851988
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