Jerome's Sunbeam Pages
My Alpines List Archives - Rebuild-Tranny
Index Accessories Culture Diagnose Docs Howto Id Models Parts-Alt Performance Rebuild Rebuild-Body Rebuild-Electrical Rebuild-Engine Rebuild-Interior Rebuild-Tranny Rebuild-Underside Shoptools Sources Specs
E Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in4.ibm.net id 875047208.87990-1 ; Tue, 23 Sep 1997 20:40:08 +0000
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 12:59:00 -0700
From: Jarrid Gross <Gross@Unit.com>
Organization: Unit Instruments
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: SII OD
You may put a SII OD on a SIV gearbox, provided
the SIV box is a non-sync type that used an OD.
Only OD boxes may be used as the main shafts differ
between std and OD trans's.
Also the adapter used on the SI to early SIV OD cannot
be used on the later SIV and SV OD boxes as the
adapters differ, and cannot be modified.
Hope this helps.
Jarrid Gross
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 875114263.71818-1 ; Wed, 24 Sep 1997 15:17:43 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: SII OD
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 08:13:00 -0700
Jerome,
>Could I put a Series II gearbox/OD on a 1725? I must have some workable
>"upgrade" combination from:
>
> Tomato: 1592, part-synchro, no OD
> Parts Car: 1592, part-sunchro, OD
> something: 1725 motor (not enough support parts for an "engine")
> S IV(?): 1725, part-synchro, no OD
>
>Otherwise, I'll just rebuild the Tomato's 1592 and add the Parts Car's
>gearbox/OD. The car was originally an OD (as from the [riveted] ID
plate),
>and "keeping it original" has some appeal - I'm not into racing.
Well, if you dont mind the gear whine you get in first, it is
absolutetly
no problem to use the SII part-sync box+OD on the 1725 motor.
The all-sync std box cannot be used with the OD.
If you had to have an all-sync OD, this is what you need...
Appropriate OD mainshaft for the std box that you have.
OR
Complete OD all-sync box.
AND
all-sync OD adapter "different than part-sync part"
OD's are nice, but troublsome, and cost about $700 to
properly rebuild by specialist.
If you are pretty mechanically savvy, and pay close
attention to instruction, yu may have success in rebuilding
or at least verifying that the unit is mechanically sound.
The OD unit is pretty straight forward in opperation, but
should be totally dis-assembled and inspected prior
to ANY usage.
Weak areas include the planetary gear bearings, sheared
planet pin locks, and worn pump assembly.
More expensive is the clutch itself, which is integral to the
annulous, which is the most expensive part in the OD.
When the planetary bearings go, the planet gears are
destroyed as is the annulous.
Nice web page.
Good luck and cheers.
Jarrid Gross
˜
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in7.ibm.net id 875130813.60144-1 ; Wed, 24 Sep 1997 19:53:33 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: SII OD
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 12:49:00 -0700
----------
From: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
>I have a Workshop Manual and am not too dumb (a little fearful
perhaps).
>I expected to at least test the unit as per the W Manual instructions.
>The need for special tools might dissuade me. I really only want OD for
>extended (highway) driving. Now that I've read the whole "more revs,
>less OD" discussion, I started running at higher rpms and getting used
>to the noise, and I think the car runs better, loses oil a little
>faster. Given my newbie-ness and the uncertain ancestry of the Tomato's
>engine (likely rough) I'm a little blow-up-on-the-road skittish,
certainly
>moreso with prolonged good weather.
Dont just bench test the OD, take it all apart.
The bench test wont tell you the condition of the bearings,
which is the fastest way to kill the whole OD.
You wont need any special tools to disassemble the OD.
It comes apart remarkably easily.
3500 RPM is a good RPM to shift at, and 4000 RPM is not
too bad for cruising. Continuous driving should not be done
at less than 2800 RPM, but for short traffic runs it is just fine.
Dont rev the motor past 5200 RPM, a stock motor doesnt
make any power beyond there, and a questionable motor can
drop a rod.
Pay close attention to the water temp, and oil pressure.
The oil should run 40+ at any RPM above 2500, and should never
drop below 20 PSI at 800 RPM hot idle.
If your motor meets the above criteria, and doesnt consume too
much oil, delay the rebuild.
Alpine motors tend to consume oil from worn valve guides,
so rectification may be as simple as removing the head, and
having new guides installed with a valve job.
Alpine motors are really tough to keep from leaking oil,
but ALL the gasket faces can be sealed, just the crank can not.
Later,
Jarrid
@ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 875304958.56904-1 ; Fri, 26 Sep 1997 20:15:58 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpine newsgroup <alpines@autox.team.net>,
William Lewis
<wrlewis@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: SII Overdrive on SIV Gearbox
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 13:11:00 -0700
Bill "Ricky Racer" Lewis
>> To which I received a reply from Jarrid:
>>
>> You may put a SII OD on a SIV gearbox, provided
>> the SIV box is a non-sync type that used an OD.
>Jarrid
> I don't understand why you can't bolt any overdrive to any
>gearbox. From what I can see, all D type overdrives are identical,
except
>for the tail end of the D types for the alpine. A D type overdrive
should
>fit any transmission with the overdrive output shaft that was
originally
>designed for such a unit as long as you use the correct adapter plate.
I
>have a D type overdrive off a Volvo that bolts right up to my series II
>tranny using the Alpine adapter plate. Of course the rear annulus is
>different, but I can overcome that problem using an MGB drive shaft.
Re-read my reply to Jerome, it says that the box has to be an OD box.
Since he has a SII OD box + OD, he just cant drop the OD+his adapter
onto a standard gearbox. Also, if the SIV is a late model, he cant
even use his SII adapter.
Also keep in mind that there were two ratios available for the D type.
25 and 32%.
The shorter "Volvo" OD is probably the way to go on the early I and II
cars as the Husky pan was a little short across the Xmember, and
required many cars to have the engine removed in order to
install the OD.
Someday someone has got to come up with a mod to use a
standard mainshaft with an OD.
Anyone know what Smitty is up to?
Casting the OD tranny adapters is easy.
> On a seperate note, are there any roll bars that can be used
with
>the early cars that do not interfere with the access to the rear panels
>and soft top stowage?
None that I am aware of, but the access panels can be opened for
use of the soft top on some models. The only panel that has a
tough time of it is the rear panel.
My older CAT bar, made by ??? barely gives access.
> Thanks for the advice on the rear sway bar. Anybody need a
stock
>series V rear bar?
Series V cars did not come equipt with rear bars.
Jarrid Gross
Ì Received: from b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: Tigertoms@aol.com
(1.37.109.11/16.2) id AA094365843; Sun, 12 Mar 1995 19:50:43 -0500
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 19:50:43 -0500
To: ALPINES@autox.team.net, TJHIGGIN@ingr.com
Subject: Speed-o error w/OD
Someone recently mentioned the ecstasy of driving an Alpine with overdrive
and a 3:89 rear. With this combination you can cruise at 80 MPH at under
4,000 RPM or loaf at 60 MPH under 3,000 RPM. Unfortunately the speedos are
way off base when doing the OD/3:89 combination.
Rootes never came up with a speedo drive/driven gear to accomodate this
combnation of drivetrain. What they did was build a special speedometer just
the speedo worthless except for its intended application.
Fear not Bunky, there is salvation. Go visit your local speedo shop and ask
combinations using series IV or V speedos. Tyre size and other factors may be
involved. So ask the shop to loan you a "rev counter" to put on your cable to
check the number of turns/mile.
With this info the shop can dial in the exact ratio you need. Now your next
question is....is the speedo accurate? If not calibrated for the past 10
years, there is a high probability that it is not on target.
Tiger Tom
# Received: from b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: 14 Sep 95 15:20:53 EDT
From: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
To: <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Trans Oil
I spoke with John Roseby, the guy I mentioned in my last e-mail who
rebuilt by overdrive, he strongly recommends 20/50 engine oil - and no
synthetics.
Cheers.
Jay Laifman.
¢ Received: from b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: Tony Leeming <TLEEMING@city.nanaimo.bc.ca>
To: owner-alpines <owner-alpines@b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com>
Subject: RE: Want to buy: Overdrive transmission
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 94 09:56:00 PST
I installed an overdrive into my Series 2 a couple of years ago from a
Series 5. What a difference it makes! I changed the electrical system over
to neg. ground to match all the components that go with it that Steve talks
about. The rear end on overdrive Alpines was 4.22 except for the Series 3
which was 3.89 . All std. gearbox Alpines had 3.89 rear ends. I decided not
to change mine from 3.89 and boy am I glad. It makes cruising on the highway
a pleasure, as you knock 20% off your RPM. The downside is that your speedo
is out of whack and is more like KPH , which is fine in Canada and o/d 3rd.
is the same ratio as non o/d top. This is not a concern to me, o/d top is
the greatest.!! Stick with the 3.89 and go for it !!
Tony Leeming Nanaimo, Vancouver Island,
British Columbia, Canada. (tleeming@city.nanaimo.bc.ca.)
----------
From: owner-alpines
To: levitin; alpines
Subject: Want to buy: Overdrive transmission
Date: Thursday, December 29, 1994 12:00AM
From hermes.intel.com!cogsci.uoregon.edu!levitin Thu Dec 29 02:37:34
1994
From: levitin@cogsci.uoregon.edu
Date: Tue, 27 Dec 94 14:29:36 -0800
>From: cogsci.uoregon.edu!levitin (Daniel Levitin)
Content-Length: 203
Content-Type: text
Message-Id: <9412272229.AA00648@cogsci.uoregon.edu>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Want to buy: Overdrive transmission
I have a 1966 Alpine and I'd like to replace the stock transmission
with an overdrive. Does anyone have one for sale? Does anyone want
to buy my standard transmission after I put in the overdrive?
Good luck finding the overdrive transmission. I embarked on a
similar and ultimately successful hunt about a year ago. Here's
my experience. It is virtually impossible to find an overdrive
transmission with the all synchro-trans (i.e., one that came with
a late Series IV or Series V car) in the US. I was able to locate OD
transmissions from earlier Alpines at junk yards, but the price
was much too high, particularly given the non-synchro problem. I
finally found one at a shop called Tiger & Alpine
Spares in England. Let me know if you need the address. I
thought that the price was reasonable for either a used or
rebuilt OD trans. Of course shipping was murder, but the
improvement for highway driving was well worth the investment. I
opted for the rebuilt unit and found it to be good except for a
slight grind when downshifting from top to third at high or
moderate revs. Keep in mind that you will need a few additional
parts: the prop/drive shaft for the OD transmission is shorter
than the stock shaft. These are also hard to find, but Tiger &
Alpine spares had one. You should probably replace the U-joints
if you get a used one. You'll also need a relay. This proved to
be a confusing issue for me, but Sunbeam Specialties has
something and my mechanic was able to get something from Lucas
that worked. The originally used relay is difficult to find.
Again, T&S may have a NOS one. Finally, you'll need a switch for
the steering column. These came in two varieties: a
self-canceling switch and a simpler on/off lever. I could not
locate the self-canceling type in decent condition anywhere.
David Franchi had a few NOS on/off switches. It was a little
tricky to mount, but it looks great and works fine. Others have
used a variety of bodges for a switch. I recommend spending the
$35 bucks for an original if David has any left. Let me know if you need
any numbers or if you have any questions about how my remove and
replace went. Good Luck
Steve Semeraro
Series V Alpine
‡ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 13:01:34 -0700
From: frodo4@ix.netcom.com (John Souders )
Subject: Re: gearbox oil and headlamp rings
To: nyclewit@nyhp03.serigate.philips.nl
To: alpines@autox.team.net
You wrote:
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
>To: alpines@autox.team.net
>From: "Bert Clewits" <nyclewit@nyhp03.serigate.philips.nl>
>Subject: gearbox oil and headlamp rings
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
>Hi Beamers !
>
>Sometime ago there was a discussion about what oil to use in the
gearbox
>Is it right to put just motor oil in the gearbox with an overdrive of
>a series IV Alpine.
>I saw in our late Hillman Minx owners handbook that motor oil was
>required for the gearbox.
>I think it's better to use proper gearbox oil is that possible ?
>Any comments ?
Use engine oil in the box. Gear oil will prevent the OD unit from
working, by allowing the cone braking clutch to slip. Trust me - I know
- been there!
The gears in a box do not tax oils like gears in the rear end.
John Alpine IV
y
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 877483395.50000-1 ; Wed, 22 Oct 1997 01:23:15 +0000
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 17:16:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Lewis <wrlewis@ucdavis.edu>
To: alpine newsgroup <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Overdrive problems
On Tue, 21 Oct 1997, DRVABTRCR wrote:
> I have a early series overdrive trans non-synchro 1st which has some bad
> components in the overdrive assembly one being the planet carrier part 61 in
> the workshop manual. Would like to know if a rebuild is available or where to
> obtain replacement parts and possibly which other cars had this Laycock D
> unit.
>
> Thanks, Bob
Bob
Nearly all the british cars and some scandanavian cars (such as
Volvo) used the D type overdrive. Many of the parts are interchangeable
to the Sunbeam The annulus and the tail shaft are two pieces that were
found only in the Sunbeam overdrive. All the other D type overdrives were
identical. The planetary gears should be interchangeable. I have opted
to replace the blown up overdrive (I didn't blow it up, I bought it that
way) with a Volvo unit. This requires changing the drive shaft to an MGB
shaft, but the result is actually a better design. Having the drive shaft
slip inside the overdrive, which is trying to build pressure to engage the
gears, is a really stupid design. For this reason, Rootes had to put the
balance tube between the front a rear chambers of the overdrive to keep if
from clunking in and out of gear while you are merrily bouncing down the
roak. I was talking to a friend of mine over the weekend and we wondered
how much more it cost Rootes to have the overdrives retooled to make their
one off design, when they could have gone with the MGB tail shaft and the
standard Laycock design. No wonder they went belly up.
Bill Lewis
Arm Chair engineer
; Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: 6 Dec 1996 09:18:13 -0600
From: "T Wiencek" <t_wiencek@qmgate.anl.gov>
Subject: Overdrive Trivia
To: "Message Alpine" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Time: 9:10 AM
OFFICE MEMO Overdrive Trivia Date:
12/6/96
I found the following in a data sheet from the Rootes Work Shop Manual (W. S.
M.) 124 dated December 1959-
It should be noted that the overdrive unit number for Laycock De
Normanville D-Type, which consists of three sets of figures seperated by
oblique strokes, is made up as follows:
First number: Percentage change of drive ratio, e. g. 32% or 25%.
Second Number: Type Designation
Third Number: Serial number.
I think all Alpine OD's were 25%. Is this true? My Late 50's Singer book
lists a 32% OD. Does anyone know of any other OD ratios? Thanx. Tom
$ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 876221279.50868-1 ; Tue, 07 Oct 1997 10:47:59 +0000
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 06:42:13 -0400
From: eckert@tfn.com (Kurt Eckert)
Subject: RE: Replacing diff bolts question
To: alpines@autox.team.net
It is impossible to get at the ring gear bolts without pulling the axles and
drive shaft. They both are inserted into the differential assembly and must be
removed before you can pull the front of the case off and get access to the ring
gear bolts. When I replaced mine I used lock washers and red Loctite. I was able
to wiggle all of my bolts about 1/8 of a turn and it appeared that the tab
washers just wern't cutting it.
Kurt Eckert
1963 Series III GT
1 pulling the axles
-----Original Message-----
From: frodo4@ix.netcom.com (John Souders)
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 1997 12:24 AM
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Replacing diff bolts question
I have decided it's time to check the bolts in my Alpine diff ring
gear. We have had this thread before, but I have a further (possibly
dumb) question.
In looking at the drawings it seems that it may be possible to get at
the bolts one at a time with the diff assembly still in the car. Does
anyone have any idea whether this is possible.
It seems that if I remove the diff cover, I should be able to get at
one bolt at a time for removal, Loctiting and replacing.
Also what is recommended here. The use of lock washers, use of the
(soft) locking tabs, no washers etc?
Thanks
John
<< File: TXT1.TXT >>
S Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 876236456.47284-1 ; Tue, 07 Oct 1997 15:00:56 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, frodo4@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: Replacing diff bolts question
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 07:56:00 -0700
From: frodo4@ix.netcom.com
John "Frodo4" wrote,
>Cover - wrong term? The front of the diff housing is held in place by
>a number of nuts. With the drive shaft flange removed doesn't this
>"cover" come off to allow access to the diff gear assembly.
Dick wrote,
> You'll need
>to pull the axles first if its an Alpine diff assembly.
Dick is right here.
The series of nuts you see are what bolts the entire diff carrier
into the axle case. It wont come out without removing the axles.
>I'm trying to avoid this in attempting to replace the bolts with the
>gear assy in place.
It is not possible to even touch the bolts without taking the entire
carrier from the axle case. This is a bench top opperation.
There is no reason to remove the drive shaft flange for this
opperation, so dont bother.
If your question is really "do I have to remove the gears from the
carrier to replace the ring gear bolts?". The answer is no,
unless you find a broken bolt in the diff carrier, but then you'd
be in really deep stuff.
Jarrid Gross
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in5.ibm.net id 880134460.30530-1 ; Fri, 21 Nov 1997 17:47:40 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, Vic Nigro <vicn@lnpnews.com>
Subject: RE: clutch replacement
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 09:43:00 -0800
From: Vic Nigro
>My 1967 daily driver Alpine is in need of a new clutch. All of the
>books that I have (covering all Sunbeam models and not very explicit on
>just Alpines) aren't very much help. Can you guys give me any tips?
Replacing the clutch is pretty straightforward opperation.
Here is the procedure.
Put the car on well supported jack stands as high as you can get the
car up. (This is so you can slide the tranny out the bottom of the
car).
Remove battery cables (for safety).
Drain the tranny oil (optional).
Drop the driveline, and put a rag inside the rear of the tranny to
prevent
oil spillage when you tilt the tranny.
Remove the slave cyl to throughout link.
Remove the starter and slave cyl (dont remove the hydrollic lines).
Remove the shifter boot and shifter (4 screws on the shifter cover).
Remove the backup switch lines (if fitted) from the shifter plate.
Put a jack under the tranny, remove the 8 bolts that attach the tranny
xmember to the chassis. Leave the jack with force holding the tranny
xmember to the chassis.
Remove all the bellhousing bolts to the engine block.
Put a bottle jack with a piece of wood (to spread load) under
the rear of the oil pan.
Remove force off the jack under the tranny. The tranny and engine
will tilt downward. Allow it to tilt only enough to allow for its
removal.
Set the oil pan jack to hold the weigh of the engine ONLY!
Set the tranny jack to hold the weight of the tranny ONLY!
If the jacks have been set properly, get a partner under the car
with you.
Lift and slide the tranny straight out, and NEVER let the weight of the
tranny rest on the input shaft. This must be done quickly and you
should be physically ready for the task as it can take time, and
can wear you out in the process.
The tranny must slide out about 5 inches before it can be lowered
to the floor.
The clutch is removed with 6 bolts on the cover.
Resurfacing the flywheel is recommended, so you'll need an
impact wrench to get the flywheel bolts loosened.
Keep the flywheel and dic/cover clean, if not, use brakecleen to
clean any greasy parts it up.
Replacement should be the opposite order of these instructions.
Hope this was what you were looking for.
Jarrid Gross
þ Received: from ciao-intranet ([129.135.4.2]) by alpine.iss.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:44:10 -0700
From: Tony Leeming <tleeming@island.net>
To: T Wiencek <t_wiencek@qmgate.anl.gov>
Subject: Re: Alpine Flywheels
T Wiencek wrote:
>
> Subject: Time: 10:25 AM
> OFFICE MEMO Alpine Flywheels Date:
> 8/18/97
>
> Are there any differences between the 1494, 1592 and 1725 flywheels? I think
> they are all interchangable. I want to put a 1725 one on a 1494. Thank you.
Jarrid wrote:
All the flywheels will interchange on all year cars, but the differences
in clutches causes problems with the TO bearing due to the different
clutch heights. This is easily overcome by swaping the appropriate
TO fork and TO bearing from the year of clutch that you use.
Tom:
Yep - been there and done that ! I could not figure out why the
bellhousing would not mate with the engine until I noticed the clutch
housing fouling the the TO housing. I used the lighter fywheel and TO
housing (seriesV) on the 1592 and the 71/2 clutch with no problems so
far.
Tony Leeming
Series II
Canada
? Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in1.ibm.net id 894572993.83220-1 ; Thu, 07 May 1998 20:29:53 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, Louis COLLINS <louis@bic.mni.mcgill.ca>
Subject: RE: overdrive self-cancelling switch
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 13:26:00 -0700
Louis COLLINS wrote,
>I did not know that the overdrive was supposed to be self-cancelling in
>1st, 2nd and reverse gears. However, reading though the Rootes shop
>manual, I've come across section E.1 that describes this feature. I've
>checked my car, and I believe that the yellow wire that comes from the
C2
>connector on the relay was connected directly to the overdrive
solonoid.
>According to fig 4b (p5) in the same section of the manual, the yellow
wire
>(from C2) should be connected to a "gearbox switch" and the
yellow/purple
>wire (from C1 on the relay) should be connected to the solonoid .
>Here's the question: where is the "gearbox switch" located on the car
and
>how is it accessible? where should the wire travel to get from the
gearbox
>switch to the C2 connector on the relay?
The gearbox switches are mounted "screw into" the sides of the shifter
plate directly above the transmision box.
The switch is mounted so that it closes only when the tranny
is in the 3rd or 4th position, which falls on the same side of the H
pattern.
The self cancelation feature allowed automatic disengagement of
the OD when shifted out of the 3rd 4th H gate. What is did was to
interupt current from the latching OD relay.
OD will then have to be re-relected at the coumun switch after the H
gate is reset to the 3rd 4th position.
This is different from the earlier system that used just a simple relay
that would re-engage OD on 2nd to 3rd gear if the OD collumn switch
had been left on.
The wire bundle should go from the tranny area to the right side of
the firewall in a direct path under sheet metal hold downs welded
to the body. It will also have a large gauge wire returning to the OD
to the solenoid through the same path.
Jarrid Gross
¤ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 902354198.105944-1 ; Wed, 05 Aug 1998 21:56:38 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, dbilesky@cln.etc.bc.ca
Subject: RE: OD Isolator Adjustment
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:51:00 -0700
dgb wrote,
>When in OD, if I tap the gear shift lever to the left the OD will pop out.
>Mostly I need to hold it to the right!
The switch mounted to the side of the shift cover is loose,
or going south.
Remove the electrical wire from it, and tighten.
If its allready tight, remove a washer "shim".
If there are no shims, replace the switch as the it has worn out.
Jarrid
g Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 915545347.137986-1 ; Tue, 05 Jan 1999 14:09:07 +0000
From: TLKSRHOME@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 23:45:23 EST
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: bleeding clutch
Tony,
Hello, I have had luck bleeding clutch hyd. by pushing in on the slave push-
rod to help push the air out and help create the back pressure needed to get
all the air out.
the ony drawback is that it takes two people,as opposed to using a hose into
a bottle full of fluid.Push on the rod while someone pumps,and after you get
the back pressure "feel " you can eventually bleed as usual.
hope this helps,Kevin in Seattle
S1,S2,S5GT,Minx6,Super Minx
Y Received: from b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: Tony Leeming <TLEEMING@city.nanaimo.bc.ca>
To: owner-alpines <owner-alpines@b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com>
Subject: RE: Clutch
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 95 09:39:00 PDT
----------
From: owner-alpines
To: alpines
Subject: Clutch
On August 17, 1995 06:05 Tom Voltaggio wrote:
>Also, do you,need to drop the engine like you need to replace the clutch,
>or can it be done without all that labor?
In a Series II it can be done by just lowering the gearbox ( tranny ! ) O.D.
or Manual . The engine will tilt right back to the fire wall so you need to
protect it. Also the fan blade will foul the rad. Disconnect your exhaust
manifold and don't forget the gas line!! You might want to replace the rear
oil seal in the gearbox while your at it - they seem to be prone to leaking
. Last thing - remove your gearshift lever from the gearbox . Good Luck -
Tony Leeming Nanaimo, Vancouver Island,
British Columbia, Canada. (tleeming@city.nanaimo.bc.ca.)
1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series 2 ( My Pine )
2 Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in1.ibm.net id 889111203.99100-1 ; Thu, 05 Mar 1998 15:20:03 +0000
From: Don Daves <DonDaves@scvwd.dst.ca.us>
To: "'Alpines list'" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: my new alpine
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 06:28:33 -0800
boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BD47FF.ED2E50B0"
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
------ =_NextPart_000_01BD47FF.ED2E50B0
> Also consult the manual re removing and installing the layshaft - easy
when
>you know how. The special tool needed to hold the needle rollers can be
>made from wood dowel and nails.
Instead of a dowel to retain the needle bearings, I used heavy grease to
pack the needles in place and to hold the thrust washers as well. Then,
left the layshaft gear in the bottom of the case while assembling the
rest of the trans, then carefully inverted the unit to let the layshaft
gear drop into place allowing the shaft to be slid in. Sometimes a
needle or two would fall out of place, but could be tucked back in with
a little screw driver. Using a dowel is definately the way to go if you
have one handy.
Don Daves
*
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 913396411.480902-1 ; Fri, 11 Dec 1998 17:13:31 +0000
From: "Jay Laifman" <Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:22:17 -0800
Subject: Tranny Removal
A couple of years ago, I asked the same questions and did remove the
transmission without pulling the engine. If I were to do it again, I'd
just pull the dang engine. The only good thing about not pulling the
engine was that I did not need an engine hoist. On the other hand, by the
time you finish loosening or taking off everything you have to take off to
allow the engine to rotate back, you are pretty much ready to pull the
engine (see below). MOST IMPORTANTLY, I had one bitch of a time balancing
the engine and the transmission both to pull back the transmission and then
to try to line it up to put it back on without damaging the first motion
shaft. And, I was very unhappy about how problematic it was to support the
dangling engine and transmission.
After doing everything to rotate the engine, this is all that is left to go
all the way and pull the engine: disconnect (1) the oil cooler, if fitted,
(2) the oil pressure guage line, (3) the fuel line and (4) the wires to the
alternator. Less than 5 minutes of time, yet it save you all sorts of
grunts and snorts in dealing with a very heavy, oily transmission on a
strange angle.
Now, if you insist on avoiding pulling the engine (as I did) here are a few
other suggestions I got (and did) when I asked: (1) remove the radiator or
take off the fan so that the fan does not rotate into the radiator, (2) if
you just take off the fan, remove the hoses to the radiator because they
WILL stop the engine from rotating enough, (3) disconnect the throttle
mechanism (unless you have a cable set up), (4) loosen the front motor
mounts so that all the twist does not come at the expense of the rubber
(let it screw up the threads instead - ie a lose-lose situation), and (5) I
found I had to remove the valve cover to get enough rotation for the tranny
to clear.
Also, be very careful on supporting the rear of the engine. I'm not sure
what to suggest. The rear of the oil pan is angled, so you really can't
get a good spot for full support. And be darn sure you clean off any oil
so that whatever you use doesn't just slip right off.
Now, are you sure you don't want to just pull the engine? Even now it
sure sounds "easier" to not pull the engine. But, as I said, I think I'll
pull the engine next time.
Jay
y Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 1996 18:42:53 -0500
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: edalsj@igs.net (John C. Slade)
Subject: Transmission input shaft pilot bushing
I noted in a message from Doerrer@aol.com that he mentioned the pilot
bearing was too difficult to get out. I thought so too until I got a really
good tip, and it is actually as easy as eating pie. You use hydraulics.
Fill the pilot bushing and space behind it with a medium grease....I use
wheel bearing grease. Get a flat ended metal shaft just smaller than the
hole in the pilot bearing, place it just in the hole, and tap (not too
hard) on it with a hammer. After about three taps, which probably move the
trapped air around, the pilot bushing just starts walking out.
w Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in3.ibm.net id 921190902.182202-1 ; Thu, 11 Mar 1999 22:21:42 +0000
From: Jarrid Gross <JGross@econolite.com>
To: "'Jerome Yuzyk'" <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>,
"'alpines@autox.team.net'"
<alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: clutch slave return spring
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 14:22:01 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
Jerome wrote,
>On my clutch slave cylinder there was a return spring attached to a
>small arm. Years of use meant that the spring and arm have worn where
>they contacted each other. One day the spring will go POOF! at an
>inopportune time. SS doesn't list a replacement, and consulting the
>Parts Manual shows this spring as used for Series I cars only. Does this
>mean I have a Series I slave cylinder? SS says to use a Series II
>replacement and kit. Anyone have a good replacement for these two parts?
Good news, Jerome!
You dont need the part.
Very early alpines had them, possibly even very early series IIs.
It was supposed to keep the TO bearing from rubbing on the clutch cover
thrust disc, which would prematurely wear the TO's carbon face, but
created more problems then it solved.
The problems was that the spring will return the slave cyls piston
back toward the its non engaged position, thus defeating the inherant
self adjustablility of the hydrolic linkage.
It often made the clutch fail to release, and gears couldnt be selected
from nuetral.
Jarrid Gross
Index Accessories Culture Diagnose Docs Howto Id Models Parts-Alt Performance Rebuild Rebuild-Body Rebuild-Electrical Rebuild-Engine Rebuild-Interior Rebuild-Tranny Rebuild-Underside Shoptools Sources Specs